MaximumHP Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 Wow, very impressive project, great work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted June 21, 2009 Author Share Posted June 21, 2009 I just finished installing the new Radiator Support Panel, still needs welding, at the moment it's just tacked in place, I will wait until the car is back onto the rotisserie before I finish it off - save me welding upside down that way ! This is the original Lower Radiator Support Panel, but it was a bit heavy and run across the lower half of the radiator - so removed it! This is the new lower radiator support! Now the Top Radiator Support Panel Installed! Can see the mounting tabs for the radiator! New support panels installed! All boxed in! With the Radiator Installed! I am going to try and run the hydraulic fan that the 1UZ came with or at least make a shroud for the SPAL fan! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The love of JDM Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 Sweet work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnum380Z Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 Im always stunned everytime i see some you guy's creativity! Great work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeleriousZ Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 Damn that rad support is serious business. You no longer need a front bumper, that thing will take all the impact in a front end collision Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g00kb0i Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 Instead of blocking the ends off, i would of added a oil heat exchanger. Two if you want to be symmetrical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted June 23, 2009 Author Share Posted June 23, 2009 Instead of blocking the ends off, i would of added a oil heat exchanger. Two if you want to be symmetrical. To cool what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lumberjackj Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 impressive! i like it!!! kudos! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted July 29, 2009 Author Share Posted July 29, 2009 I have been trying to take a few more photo's but the flash on my camera dosen't seem to like the idea very much so no updates for a while, but I have reinforced the interior and closed of the original shifter hole because I am planning on using a B&M Shifter. Should have some new pics soon ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
426viper Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 Hi Tony looking good, did you think about making that support panel removable from the sides like a lot of old American cars? I am considering the idea on my 260z 2+2 as i might have to replace the same panel you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted August 14, 2009 Author Share Posted August 14, 2009 Hi Tony looking good, did you think about making that support panel removable from the sides like a lot of old American cars? I am considering the idea on my 260z 2+2 as i might have to replace the same panel you have. I did, but decided against it - the connecting material on the sides is very flimsy at only 1-1.2mm thick plus my front sections have been replaced, so there was a join there - if there was no join and I was able to use the original meterial I think it would have been a different prospect and very much possible! Cut out the original panel and weld in some supports so you could then bolt your new custom made radiator support panel to! Sure would have made the engine easier to get in and out ! But, I do think alot of those old US cars are not monocoque designs, or are at least partial monocoque designs, like you can unbolt the fenders, inner fender walls but the cabin is welded to the chassis. However, in either case they are built on chassis that resemble a Land Rover from the 1940's! I think not welding in the radiator support panel for a monocoque design might lead to flexing issues? So, maybe if you welded in a brace at the bottom between the chassis rails and then had a removalable top piece you could have the best of best worlds with the Z? When I was popping the engine in and out before I had completed the radiator support it was soooo much easier to do ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted January 4, 2010 Author Share Posted January 4, 2010 Hey Guys, Thought I might post an update with the Z! Just finished making a new Tubular Crossmember, Engine Mounts and Gearbox Crossmember. The Tubular Crossmember took a fair amount of trial and error, but It should be right to go now. Enjoy ! The New Engine Mounts and Gearbox Crossmember! Here is some pics of the new Crossmember! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DatZunfan Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 I am very late to this post, yet i am in AWE this is amazing! I aboslutely love your ingenuity! Keep up the amazing work man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc280 Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 That new crossmember looks really good and seems like it must have taken a while to get right! That is going to make mine look like a real backyard job in camparison Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 wow!! fantastic work on that cross member!! I couldnt imagine the amount of time invested in that bad boy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 wow, that cross member looks like its setup for 5 different motor swaps!!! everything looks good but the motor mount rest plates itself looks kinda weak. instead of leaving it open with just the 45 degree plate, you should consider boxing it up in the front and back for insurance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted January 28, 2010 Author Share Posted January 28, 2010 wow, that cross member looks like its setup for 5 different motor swaps!!! everything looks good but the motor mount rest plates itself looks kinda weak. instead of leaving it open with just the 45 degree plate, you should consider boxing it up in the front and back for insurance. I work with Engineers and they helped me a lot with the design of this crossmember. I originally had the rear crossmember mounts in front of the rear LCA mounts, but was advised that under heavy breaking this could cause all sorts of flex in the LCA arms and a pretty ordinary driving experience - so that was modified. They said the double decker design is crazy strong and because the Tubular pieces are mounted both forward and sideways, this thing should stay together under extreme pressures, because when you impact a tube front on it is extremely strong, when you impact it on the side, it isn't and will bend. And they they all mentioned what you have noticed ! There is a little trick to this bit thought...............It is 3mm plate and I have positioned the drivers side engine mount (opposite side for me as I am in Australia) further inwards, so when the engine torques over, most of the force should be pushed downwards onto the Bend of the engine mounting plate area - and not the centre of it. However, this still didn't convince my workmates - they said it should be strong enough, but would still prefer to see a few gussets in that area for piece of mind ! I am going to POR-15 this thing I think, so when I strip it I will add in the gussets to be sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 (edited) some would have flamed for that in the 2jz section!!! lol. 3mm is equal to 1/8th inch? not sure as i don't have a caliper to get an idea. your idea/theory makes since. obviously the two top and bottom tube is in place and no way it would bend outward or inward also. Edited January 30, 2010 by piston edit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 About 3.175mm is 1/8", I always remember an 1" is 25.4mm and work back from there - I was never a big fan of fractions in school though ! Whenever I get a measurement in Inches I always convert it to mm's so I can gauge the size of it. I have no conception of what 15/16" looks like in my mind ! obviously the two top and bottom tube is in place and no way it would bend outward or inward also. That is exactly what I was thinking with the design. The only thing that I think that can really happen is the steel get's depressed on the drivers side (passenger side for US), but for that to happen it would have to be a fairly large pushing force, which I don't think would happen. Well, not to the extend that the metal would actually warp. If there was only one tubular section, instead of the upper and lower sections then I think Gussets would be the order of the day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gr8White Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 It's really great to see a car like this rescued and built better than new. Your fabrication skills are truly amazing, very impressive. I would be interested in seeing what the new weight of the car will be, I'd personally be willing to trade any porkiness for the structural rigidity you now have- Horsepower cures all pork. Really nice job, you really should be proud. I wish I had your talents. Don't forget to weigh her when complete. Keep the pics coming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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