misterZ Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 Any machinists that have cut down the stock shifter and re-thread it to OEM specs? I've seen it on eBay once and would like to cut mine down, add brass bushings and use my original (`76 Fairlady) wood knob. Thanks, mister Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PalmettoZ Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 Hey- I did mine, but it is time consuming. I cut the shifter shorter (actually a little too short, wished it was about an inch longer) and then used a bench grinder to grind down the diameter to where a die would fit. You need to keep dipping the shifter in some water to cool it as you grind off metal to keep it from getting hot. Try to keep it round as possible, and the threads will look nice in the end. I also made a brass bushing for it. It shifts super tight and smooth. You can see a photo of it on my cardomain sight on the second page. This was before I put the leather boot on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hughdogz Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 You guys are talking about a shortened shifter, right? A true short-throw shifter raises the pivot point (like the ones MSA sells): Wouldn't it be easier to cut a 1-2" section out then weld the two pieces back together? No die cutting needed. The first thing I do after I buy a Z is shorten the shifter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterZ Posted February 23, 2009 Author Share Posted February 23, 2009 Wow Scott, that is short... dog, I currently have MSA's short-shifter but want my original shifter cut down about the same. There is a head shop around the corner from me so I might ask if they can do it `cause I'd screw it up for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 I put a KA conversion in my 240Z. The stock 240SX shifter was too tall and sloppy. My fix was to cut that shifter off below the rubber damper and weld on a shortened upper half of a type "B" shifter. My shift knob just barely clears the interior leather boot. The shift is tight, smooth and it looks correct with the small diameter lever instead of that grossly fat 240SX version. It beats the heck out of paying dearly for an aftermarket shifter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hughdogz Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 Wow Scott, that is short... dog, I currently have MSA's short-shifter but want my original shifter cut down about the same. There is a head shop around the corner from me so I might ask if they can do it `cause I'd screw it up for sure. Oops! My mistake...sorry guys. I guess I fell into the trap in Scott's siggy - "Assumption is the mother of all F..ups. " Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 The stock Z shifter knob thread is a tiny 8mm. After cutting to length, the thicker, middle portion of the shifter lever diameter has to be turned down to the M8 thread max diameter (7.972mm), before you can run a die down and cut new threads. Unless you have access to a lathe and a well-stocked first aid kit (turning that wiggly S-shaped piece of steel almost guarantees a split knuckle or 2) try this: Drill a 17/64" hole down the end of the handle and thread the hole with a M8 tap. Then use a M8x1.25 stud (be-headed bolt) to attach the knob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 The stock Z shifter knob thread is a tiny 8mm. After cutting to length, the thicker, middle portion of the shifter lever diameter has to be turned down to the M8 thread max diameter (7.972mm), before you can run a die down and cut new threads. Unless you have access to a lathe and a well-stocked first aid kit (turning that wiggly S-shaped piece of steel almost guarantees a split knuckle or 2) try this: Drill a 17/64" hole down the end of the handle and thread the hole with a M8 tap. Then use a M8x1.25 stud (be-headed bolt) to attach the knob. Here, here...that's a man who has spent some time in a machine shop! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterZ Posted February 25, 2009 Author Share Posted February 25, 2009 Genius! I love it when folks think outside the box. Thanks, mister Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trippintl0 Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 There's actually a much easier way that an old school guy told me when I was attempting to buy the die for the shifter: Cut the shifter, and weld an M8x1.25 bolt upside down to the end of it. Totally simple, then just grind down the edges of the bolt so the shifter can slide over it. I had only a little bit of welding experience, and I was able to accomplish the entire task in about 15 minutes with a MIG welder and a bench grinder. [edit] (of course i'm assuming you have access to a welder!!) [/edit] Also you can do like I did and use an M10 x (?forgot?) so you can use the 300zx shift knob! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 My shiter was cut in the middle (not at the bend) and then welded together, and ground smooth, it pretty much feels awesome, I cant stand stock Z shifters, its like driving a truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nizm0Zed Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 my mates and i used to do simple back yard short throw shifters for our various cheap cars. you get 2 sticks (because if you get 1 and use your one, Murphy will destroy it) and cut the little knob off the bottom, then on the other shifter, you cut half the knob and shaft off. Weld the longer peice onto the bottom of the stick you only cut the knob off, and then simply space the quadrant box up higher with a peice (or a few peices)of alloy plate. moving the pivot ball higher than origional accomplishes the shorter throw, but then you just trim the stick down to a suitable length, and re thread for the gearknob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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