josh817 Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 Ok so next week is spring break and I am attempting to paint my car myself. I am thinking about red with black stripes however, if red is too expensive I would like a royal blue. I'll talk with some paint guys later on as to a two stage or single stage. For my sake being a first timer single stage would be preferred however metallic colors need to be two stage I hear. You can read more in my thread with all my new add-ons here so I don't have to reexplain the situation: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=145547 With that said, my question is how to approach holes within the body. Big holes, as in like where the antenna went. Fiberglass from the inside of the car so you have something to put filler over or what? I see some people have it filled in and others don't. I'm going to tack weld the trim holes in my doors. The plan for that is to get a copper plate and put it inside the door, this way the copper conducts but the weld doesn't stick to it so instead of trying to weld the edge of a hole, the wire puddle right there on the copper. I may do the same for the antenna, we'll see how it goes. Any pointers on paint, or body work give me a shout! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 cut a piece of sheet that fits inside the hole and tack weld it in then weld in a different spot so you don't get too much heat in one are and continue to tack until its welded all the way around. then grind, primer, body filler, sand, primer again and paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted March 11, 2009 Author Share Posted March 11, 2009 Oh and also, how about the pillar rot some Z's get. Mines filled with cracked filler. How should I approach this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 Hi Josh Here is how I fixed my stuff. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=128208 Keep in mind I have a full metal fab shop and could have repaired this any way I wanted. The dogleg ended up cracking on the fender well lip but that was because of poor cleanup. I ended up putting a small tack weld at the beginning of the seam and refinished the area. The biggest mistake I made and I knew it as I was doing it is I rushed the process and ended up with some shrinkage in my repair areas. I wasn't looking for a show finish as it's a daily so I wasn't disappointed. Check out Southern polyurethanes. I used their products and saved a ton of money. I went with the epoxy primer then the turbo 2k for the filler. Then I used the base system for the top coat. http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/ Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted March 11, 2009 Author Share Posted March 11, 2009 Guys I've got a bad feeling about whats lurking under my bondo'd pillars and under the fiberglass side skirt. :[ We'll see. I'd also really like to get metal head light buckets but the fiberglass ones I have now will do fine too. Derek you are the second guy to say Epoxy primer. What is the thing about this stuff since its like $70 compared to a $30 gallon of primer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterZ Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 Oh and also, how about the pillar rot some Z's get. Mines filled with cracked filler. How should I approach this? I was told the area indicated in your picture on the pillars is a 'known' fault caused by stress at the weld seam. Mine are cracked (thru the paint) on both sides. Is there a sure way to eliminate this problem? mister Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted March 11, 2009 Author Share Posted March 11, 2009 Datsun seams, I've heard too much about them, it may be better off to shoot a weld down them all except for the ones that attach panels so you don't get stuck with a panel that won't come off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 Waterproof and long set time before you have to scuff it up for anything to adhere. Most primers have to be sanded to get proper adhesion for the bondo or whatever. The epoxy from SPI has a 72 hour window for re coating before it has to be sanded. Go here http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/body-exterior/ And search around for epoxy primer and SPI and you'll get a ton of info. Here's a shot of my car the first time I fixed the rust And starting to put it back together This was about 15 years ago and I tried to do it right. Weld through primer. Wurth undercoating blah blah bla. The rust all came back. The paint was so perfect I couldnt bring myself to go back into it and fix it when it was small. Then I had to park it and it became this Yes thats the same brand new from nissan 1/4 panel that I painstakingly welded on. This time I went with the glue method and I'll tear into in a few years and fix it again without a care in the world because I didn't spend a ton of time on it. Man those pictures make me sick. That was a sh!t load of work for nothing. Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted March 11, 2009 Author Share Posted March 11, 2009 Thats always encouraging Derek... XD I've got an awful lot of bondo on my pillar (other side didn't do anything) I may get some heavy gauge sheet metal and bead it on... I don't know just yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atomflatz Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 That is a really good starting point for a Datsamino or a Datchero. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8INtheZ Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 Dont use bondo, it absoarbs water. Use fiberglass resin to do your finish work after welding a patch in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted March 13, 2009 Author Share Posted March 13, 2009 Just the resin itself or use actual fiberglass? The epoxy primer is suppose to be waterproof. I can spend the money on bondo or resin, doesn't matter to me. The bondo cracking on the pillars right now is like a good 1/8" thick. Thats why I can so scared to look... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8INtheZ Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 You can use just the resin ( mixed with the hardener ofcourse ) to smooth out your metal patch. And when you take away material from your welds, I suggest using a "flapper" disc for your angle grinder. Here is an example of one: http://www.csunitec.com/sand/flapdiscs.html They are made in different grits ( basically sand paper ) and will leave a nice paintable surface as opposed to using a grinding stone wich leaves gouges in the metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted March 13, 2009 Author Share Posted March 13, 2009 I hope I don't have to do metal work on the pillars... I would really really like to avoid that crap. Me shaping some metal to look just right? Thats a no go, BIG TIME. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 If its just the pillar cracking, then just clean the paint off the area and go at it with a propane torch and a lead bar. The area is "lead loaded," mean, that they used lead as a filler and as a structural support. You want to add more lead and grate/sand off any excess, just as you would with regular body filler. And I don't suggest cutting off the "gutters" off the roof either. Its lead loaded on the area in question and as well on the upper and lower A pillar. Welding in areas that are lead loaded is a real PITA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted March 13, 2009 Author Share Posted March 13, 2009 Thats some real good advice! Thank you! Now time to find lead... EDIT: Hold on, where does one find lead to melt... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 Just remove the paint first. you should see a difference in color between the steel and lead. If you still can't tell, you can just poke around with a screwdriver while warming up the lead a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted March 13, 2009 Author Share Posted March 13, 2009 No I meant like where can I find some lead rods/bricks/whatever? Welding supply perhaps? This is what I am dealing with: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atomflatz Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 Not sure where you can get the proper bars locally but if you are really hard up you could probably get some lead tire balancing weights from any tire shop for cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted March 14, 2009 Author Share Posted March 14, 2009 Also, Lets discuss using fiberglass resin rather than bondo. I wouldn't mind doing this since I don't have any large dents to fill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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