AZC rear arms w AZC dog legs

[JMortensen]

I also contacted Dave and ended up getting some feedback from a time trial racer out on the West Coast who stated that he started out with the tube arms at or about level and after getting the alignment right drilled a hole and bolted it down. An earlier attempt using a pin resulted in it being seared. A concern for street cars? Not likely....

You know that a pin is a better choice than a bolt, right? Bolts have built in stress risers (threads). As far as "safe for street but not for race" I think that you have that backwards. You usually see lightweight/fragile pieces on race cars and street cars have the heavy stuff that can take severe punishment because race cars get inspected a lot more frequently and it's worth the risk to run the lightweight components at the risk of failure for the benefit of speed. I also think that conditions on a track are a lot more controlled on a track, and you won't see potholes, speed bumps, or any of innumerable other unforeseen obstacles on a track. For an example, look at wheels. Race wheels are lightweight and fragile. Street wheels are robust and heavy.

[gnosez]

Not my idea to install a pin first, since it wasn't my car. I'll be putting in a bolt. My street car is inspected at least twice a month or more when I drive it hard so your issue is unrelated to my specific car.

 

The technotoy RCAs weren't available when I was ready to convert my RCAs and I would have gladly purchased them instead, if for no other reason than to save a few dollars. Worst case, I will have the tube and the connecting joints welded or replace it with the techno units. Your unhappiness with these arms are noted....

[bjhines]

I would love to test this design. I didn't see any initial alignment settings or ride height suggestions. Having the pivots out and the arms level means you are going to get Camber loss under compression. I would like to see how far up you can go before you run into clearance issues. The camber gain the way Dave sets cars up might be ideal with the shorter LCAs as long as he indeed raises the inner pivots. Who knows? Anyone have any more info from Dave?

 

It would be nice to raise the inner pivots. The problem has always been driveshaft/CV clearance. Maybe the dogleg could be "crow's-footed", err make a bend in the middle to clear the driveshaft. If you go that far then it might just be better to build a subframe for everything. Then you could raise the diff as well(then you have to modify the chassis to clear the differential).

[JMortensen]

Having the pivots out and the arms level means you are going to get Camber loss under compression.

Not necessarily true. I thought this too for a long time, that since the bottom of the tire moves inward relative to the centerline of the car, that this would equal less negative camber. It's not the case though, because the strut angle changes not only because the control arm angle changes, but also because the strut compresses. Terry proved this point to me with one of his diagrams. It's still on his website: http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/detailfs?userid={7DC317B0-8EDB-4B2E-A837-F708D07C9769}&ndx=19&slideshow=0&AlbumId={E19B86F3-5BFB-4733-AF72-09BD805A6F1A}&GroupId={832D28D1-26F8-4E35-B3D1-6BB2152C089B}&screenheight=768