MAG58 Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 Correct, I've got almost 2500 rounds of 168 HPBT rounds or similar through the gun and it still groups well under 1MOA at anything under 600 yds, even with a hot barrel, which before i taped the front and side lugs it was incapable of doing after about 15 rounds. the 300WM is an entirely different creature all together, as with a brake, i still have it bedded at the action and about top 1/2 inch of the barrel... this worked best for the featherweight, as it drastically reduces barrel whip. ~Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 2, 2009 Author Share Posted July 2, 2009 the 300WM is an entirely different creature all together, as with a brake, i still have it bedded at the action and about top 1/2 inch of the barrel... this worked best for the featherweight, as it drastically reduces barrel whip. Not quite following here Bob. Are you saying that you have 1/2" bedded at the end of the stock (basically like I'm going to do?). Barrel whip is what I'm trying to avoid of course, since at the crown this is a .5" diameter barrel. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAG58 Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 yes, sorry to be vague. The gun is a browning A-Bolt, and the wood stock is bedded, from the safety (rearmost portion of the action) to about where the barrel first starts to taper, i'd say about 3/16 of an inch in front of the recoil lug. The barrel is then free floating through the length of the stock until the very last 1/2 inch of the stock where there is a pad of composite I have molded to cradle the barrel. With this set up on my primary long range rifle, it holds a solid MOA pretty much with any ammo above 180gr which I don't think is to bad for a featherweight hunting rifle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 3, 2009 Author Share Posted July 3, 2009 I've got a lot of crap on my plate right now and the idea of tearing that rifle down and doing an epoxy pad at the end of the barrel just isn't motivating me. Anyone know of another way to get that done. I'm thinking plastic or rubber sheet inserted in there. Or should I just do it the right way??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAG58 Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 actually yes, if you'd like, you could probably get away with getting some heavy single sided rubber pads (like the ones they use on the underside of computers and furniture to keep from scratching up floors and tables) and put that under the front of the barrel... it's pretty solid and best of all, removable, so if adding the pad to the front of the barrel actually kills accuracy (which it is known for doing), you can just take it out and not have to grind down and re shape the entire stock. If it does work, you could just leave the pad in there until you've got time to bed it correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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