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Distributor setup options (spark)


wondersparrow

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Good day all.

 

Well phase 1 of my project is nearly completed, get the car ready to run the roadrace school. There are two schools, a solo school on the 18th and a full roadcourse school on the 2nd I want to attend.

 

Car seems to run well, once its started. Running triple webers, serious race cam, flat top pistons, crane hi-6 ignition, and a well ported head on a 2.4. I will be running vp 106 fuel, just need to go get some more.

 

I still have the stock distributor. The previous owner set it up with no vacuum advance. This seems to make low rpm and starting not so great.

 

For roadrace and autocross setups (no street), would you guys use the vacuum advance? Funds are tight, so right now I have to work with what I have, I can leave it as is or hook up the vac adv.

 

The second part of my question is, what would you upgrade to if you were going to? I see some MSD electronic distributors, the Kimeari distributor (which I can find little info about), and of course some other vacuum and centrifugal models.

 

They all seem to have thier advantages and disadvantages, especially if you put price in as a factor. Advice and comments appreciated.

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Theres the EDIS-6 system which gets rid of the distributor all together and runs off of an ECU, MSD, HEI, Mallory, Kameari (but good luck affording that if you already are having problems), individual coil packs and that all I can name off. If you want you can buy my setup, its an electronicdizzy with the HEI module and coil all wired up ready to go for less then $100 which should do the trick especially with the crane hi-6, it has vacuum advance too. Speaking of, if you do an EDIS or coil pack setup I don't think you can use the crane hi-6, there is also no point in using MSD since you already have an ignition box.

 

Vacuum advance is usually capped off or distributors are bought with only mechanical advance for racers because you aren't spending the majority of your time at idle or low rpms really.

 

PS: Post a video of your car, I'm curious to see what it sounds like. :D

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We need a Budget Range?

If you want distributor less there are endless possibilities and price ranges.

I am assuming you want to keep your triple webbers?

If so, you don't need a full aftermarket computer. Search for posts by "BRAAP" and "Derek" on "EDIS". Braap has some good write ups about ford EDIS setups that can be found at the wreckers (pick and pull). Derek has made some mounts for various EDIS setups.

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Yah I'm running a Megajolt system which is a branch off of Megasquirt but without the fuel injection. Its about the size of a cigarette box and it runs the EDIS setup with your choice of MAP or TPS. I have the TPS version and can sell you that too since I would like to try out the MAP version. EDIS + Megajolt system was a little under $200 for me I do believe.

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Budget for upgrades is quite variable. As long as the expense is justified. The only reason funds are tight right now is that I have been enjoying a forced retirement (laid off) for the past 3 mos. I took advantage of the break to get the car this far and spend the bulk of my prep budget. Once I decide to get off my butt and get another job more funds will be allocated :)

 

Yes I would like to keep the webers, and I do get good spark. Its just, as we all know, the car will never be done.

 

I am a huge fan of small displacement n/a engines that can put out good power. I got my daily driver b16 honda up to 225hp and I would love to do something similar with my l6 for the track. I know it has its limitations, but this engine is really starting to grow on me.

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  • 1 month later...

After much research, Megajolt and edis seems to be the way to go. You seem to get some serious control over the spark for little investment. Now off to the junkyard to get my hands on some parts ;) Given my cam and the carbs, I am pretty sure I should go the tps route. Josh, which version do you have for sale? v4?

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You can modify the stock distributor to get more mechanical advance. This will allow you to keep a much more reasonable initial advance to aid starting. I'm lazy, so I bought a Mallory L6 dual point without vacuum advance which is extremely adjustable. I bought the Unilite conversion for it as well, but have not put it in yet, as the dual points run pretty good, at least relative to carb jetting...

 

Buying the dual point and then adding the unilite conversion was WAY cheaper than just buying the Unilite distributor. I think I paid $190 from Summit for the distributor and then $80 for the Unilite.

 

Some due diligence on the 'net will show you how to modify the weight mechanism for more mechanical advance and how to lighten either the weights or spring tension to change the rate at which the advance comes in. A file and/or some brazing along with some general knowledge will do it. A dial-back timing light helps a ton in determing what the total advance # is and how fast it comes in.

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