So I'm going to install my EDIS-6 setup and some other goodies

[josh817]

Going for the new setup and I'd like to pose a few curious questions.

 

History of motor, just built it in August, not even 3000 miles on it yet but the motor IS in the car.

 

First thing is first, I need to take out the damper (just a regular 2 row 240 damper) because the 2nd row which isn't used will be cut off and the trigger wheel will be pressed on in its place. Now, there is the front cover seal which seals itself around the snout of the damper once it is on the crank. Should I pull just the damper and then put it back in when finished and not worry about replacing that seal because of the low miles or should I pull the entire front cover, redo the seal and all the gaskets (oil pump DOES drip a little) and during this time I can cut my distributor drive spindle.

 

This is all fine and dandy as the front cover gasket set is cheap, but I just put new oil into this motor and I don't want left over water which sits in the water pump, even after being drained, to drip in my oil pan. I can deal with a little oil drip, that doesn't bother me one bit especially since the oil pan drips a drop every now and then from the seal not being perfect on that either. My main concern is, will that front crank seal need replacing since I am pulling out the damper. If so, then it goes in from the back and thats going to require some work at that point...

 

Second thing is making the bracket for the VR sensor. Its going on the exhaust side to steer clear of the alternator. I'll simply use the AC holes already in the block however I'm thinking of like a long piece of angle iron to go from those holes and out to the trigger wheel. Thats cool but it needs to be rigid because I can see myself making a bracket, having the trigger wheel mounted accordingly to where the VR sensor will sit, and then finding out that every time I hit a bump the bracket wobbles just the slightest bit due to its length and my timing goes crazy at that point.

 

In red would be the bracket:

 

Some other cool stuff coming up is paint since I'm doing that right now, 4 wheel disk brakes which I am despiritely hopping will fit under the 14" Supra wheels I have because I don't want to go out an buy a different set, these wheels came as spares with the car (score!), and finally exhaust... again. Went out and bought a 6-3-2 header from a guy on here. Sadly no picture because its at the ceramic shop and the guy takes FOREVER! Its been there since, gosh, November?! Anyway, its a change from what I arleady have which is a cermic coated 6-1 header with a 3" pipe to the back. I wanted the 6-3-2 style plus this header has 1 5/8" primaries however they are only 22" long and I really need something in the 34" range for that low end torque. I did some reading and they show different types of headers for the L6. Apparently mine is a direct match to the "Cyclone" header which has air injection ports, 1 5/8" primaries, short primaries, 2.25" collectors. I'm not thinking its anything special since it has air injection ports on it but hey whatever. I'm sure the exhaust shop I use will love the angle that the collectors are at...

 

Now its time to choose what setup I want for the pipe to the back whether I merge the collectors into a 3" pipe or 2.5" pipe, or keep dual pipes that are 2.25". My motor is a 3.1L with some porting done to it and a moderate cam so I'm suspicious of a 3" pipe being too big. The book calls for a 2.5" pipe, Rebello says 3" from what I remember so I don't know. I would like dual 2.25" pipes which is a good middle ground between the two but I don't know if its in my best interest to do that or if its better for me to merge them into one and aid in scaveging. I would also love a side exaust maybe but it might be a bit annoying (and I have a high tolerance for that crap) plus its not the best idea to put a 90º in your exhaust,however to go from the center of the car back to the drivers side rear you need 2 right angles, who knows!

 

By the way shoot me a PM, don't post in here, if you are at all interested in my old exhaust. I will probably sell as separate pieces since I know the NA guys think the 3" pipe is a bit big but the turbo guys may like it. Headers would sell for like the cost of the ceramic coat plus $50 or something, it does have a 3 bolt flange on it. The pipe would sell for however much it cost me to put it in so its like $150 or something and if you want the muffler too its probably something just a little higher since I really don't care. Just have to rebound from this double spending! Look in the classifieds for it in a couple of weeks I would say.

 

Thanks guys

[woldson]

Personally I'd leave the seal alone.

Pulling the cover, may only cause leaks at the oil pan gasket.

 

How are you going to control the edis?

[josh817]

Megajolt system. I already bought one and built it. I chose TPS over MAP since I did the port work myself on this head and I doubt all the ports match, plus a moderately radical cam. I see MAP systems on race cars though which run crazy cams and they have a conversion setup to turn my TPS into a MAP. The board has a spotmark for tps components and another spot for map so I't probably as easy as cutting a trace to the TPS and installing the MAP components if I wanted too. I didn't buy the system to have my own advance setup though, the idea was to have an accurate spark at the higher rpms, rev limiter, ability to change my timing but not make the curve dead on (otherwise I would go ahead and convert over to MAP), and Megajolt provides like 3 or 4 ports for 0-1V inputs plus a 0-5V input. Wideband sensors are 0-5v's :] and the system allows you to log data so I can record a wideband reading along with my ignition and rpm's. I have a knock sensor from the old motor and I'd like to install that too but it needs to be 0-1v and I have no idea what the output of a knock sensor is. If it is 0-1v then that means I can setup like an advance correction so when the knock sensor "feels" something the timing will retard until its gone.

 

I'm so stoaked about it! Maybe once I figure all this stuff out I can gain the confidence to try out FI. The whole idea of this motor was to avoid massive wiring and all that stuff I never understood about MS.

 

As for the front cover, I think the seal around the damper will be fine as long as I don't wrestle with it. Which I probably will... I'll tap it out with a mallet and do the same when I put it in. Radiator will need to come out and I guess at this time I will pull my oil pump and take it apart to redo the gaskets. I used this blue-ish clear adhesive thats like jellow when dried and its doing a horrible job with it dripping every now and then.

 

 

PS: So I'm doing body work today and guess what I found in my passenger side dog leg... yes, obvious rust through the other side and I don't have the equipment with me at home to fix it properly so I did a nasty nasty thing. Dynaglass the entire hole, shame on me. My punishment was getting it all over my hands and it wrestling with the crap. However thats not the surprise! I found a rock, in the dog leg, which is almost the size of my palm. The dogleg didn't have a hole big enough to fit it through so obviously rust has globbed together to make a massive Datsun tumor. Perhaps this is the typical Datsun rear end clunk.

[WizardBlack]

Dude! You have a big problem. Your cylinders are all different diameters! Somehow you grew a seventh cylinder and one went flat! Must be connected to the dogleg cancer. J/K

 

Personally, I think the seal will be fine. Pull it with a tool and you should be in the clear. You don't have to replace the seal every time you pull it out.

 

Make your crank sensor bracket out of billet and it should work well. Don't use flat strap.

[josh817]

:/ I don't have the money for billet otherwise I would go out and buy Derek's mounts. I saw a dude who used a big 1/4 or 1/2" square steel plate. It worked for him but looked funny. I can see flat strap wobbling, there has to be something between the two thats affordable for me.

 

PS: New problem, Dynaglass will not feather in nicely. Visually it looks good but you can feel a tiny transition between primer and filler. I have tried 500 grit and still nothing. :[ Today is not my day.

 

EDIS-6 with Megajolt, I will not be getting new spark plug wires or anything like that. If these reach the way I want them too then its alright.

 

 

Headers I was talking about in first post. This is from How To Modify Your Datsun/Nissan Engine, I do believe.

 

 

The paint, oh and I also wet sanded the entire car just a real fast sweep over with 220 even though the instructions say don't sand the first coat of etch primer, there was some dirt in there:

 

Hood before I sanded:

 

After I tried feathering the edges, there is still that little blip. Maybe I try a palm sander or am I being too anal? The primer feathers real nice, Dynaglass, unless thats feathering, does not.

 

Surprise!!!!! Datsun confetti with Datsun rock!

 

 

Not to proud of what I had to do...:

 

:/

[woldson]

Looking forward to getting a review from you after your megajolt setup is done!!

[josh817]

Yah I basically have been planning on where to mount the VR sensor. Megajolt, I guess like Megasquirt since its the same people, has a very detailed step by step installation guide with pictures and everything so wiring is easy. The serious work is getting the sensor mounted and then I can adjust the missing tooth on the trigger wheel to line up with it, send it off to the machine shop where they will press it onto the 2nd row of my damper and I guess balance it if it needs it. During this time I've been looking for information on basic principles/theories of ignition systems. I see on the MS section peoples ignition tables but most everyone is running a forced induction system. Just weird quarky things like why is it that when the TPS reads say 10% throttle @7000 RPM the timing spikes from lets say 36º to 48º. I've gotten a TON of help from BRAAP and he has explained a lot about flame fronts and how all this stuff will work so I owe many thank you's to him. I'm actually surprised he even responds to my PM's.

[Careless]

duuuuuuuude. you can get some flat aluminum stock for like 16 bucks that is 3/16th thick or something, can't remember the gauge, and it comes in various widths and lengths, all for about 10 bucks or less.

 

home depot!

 

I had to bend it in a vice. it will take the VR sensor just fine.

[Xnke]

Seriously, I would get the patch panel from tabco, and do it right. You're about to spend a LOAD of money and time on paint, and if you do it with fiberglass, you are really gonna regret having to do the paint twice. If I hadn't just welded my last passenger side dogleg on, I'd have just given it to you to keep you from ruining your paint in two years.

 

Also, Dynaglass is not going to feather out well. You'll need to use a lightweight filler like Featherfill (I LOVE featherfill...) over it, and feather that out. It will work so much better...

[josh817]

Well I do have some of that red putty which is used for like small pin holes and sands really nice but shrinks a lot. I could just run a bead and feather it in.

 

Honestly, I don't care about the dogleg and how I took care of it. This paint job will probably start to peel in 3 years and thats ok with me, just get me through college and once I have a job but no hopefully no family to take care of when I'm like 23, go out and do it the right way, along with a new motor by that time too. I think it should hold up anyways. This Dynaglass is pretty much just a fiberglass patch but in filler form. Its really tough and hard compared to bondo which makes it really crappy to sand like you said but it should hold up. When I added a ton of it to the rusted through portion it was bulging out the back into the wheel well so I spread it out inside of there this way it can't pull out. It will have to crack and crumble itself out.

 

Oh and besides, if it crumbles out of the dog leg area in two years I wouldn't really care anyways because its down low and out of sight a bit. I think you saw the car before all of this, it had greasy hand prints and paint falling off all over the place. Gottah keep some sort of personality to the car before I get old and mature and try to make it look perfect.

[Xnke]

Like i said in your paint thread, spot putty (the red stuff) is laquer based and will shrink and crack away when you put anything but laquer paint. You need a lightweight filler. Bondo would be better than spot putty, and if you are filling over metal and get it covered with a good primer, it will be fine.

[josh817]

I'm not sure what this Nason paint is. The primer is Nason 491-17 but it doesn't say whether its acrylic or lacquer.

 

Bah! I did a google search and I saw a thread from some other forum saying don't use this etch primer over any body work or else it will cause tons of problems. :[ I shot the first coat to cover the metal, doing the body work, then I was going to shoot a second coat over everything, sand, and do my sealer. Looks like I'll have to trade my stuff in for regular primer.

 

Yes, I went in and asked for Epoxy primer and she gave me Etch primer saying its roughly the same thing. Apparently the Etch primer has acids in it that will rape my Dynaglass/any bondo I put over the dynaglass to feather.

 

BAH! Now I have to go back over there because I'm checking all the tech sheets for my paint and I'm seeing that this Nason Ful Base B/C requires a reducer and a TINY bit of activator.. I was charged $9 for it but it is not in this box.