randy 77zt Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 i am upgrading to chevy ls coils from my current system of using the 81 dizzy and ms firing the stock ignitor/coil.i was triggering from 3 magnets in my flywheel.i could have pulled the engine and put 2 more magnets in the flywheel for a 6-1 pattern but i decided to be lazy and use some parts i had laying around.i ground 60 teeth out of the 81zxt crank trigger wheel.then welded a tab on the a/c idler bracket for the sensor.i left all 30 teeth on and installed the dampner.i put the engine on tdc and found a tooth directly under the sensor so i made that tooth #0.i used the excel file to get my settings and it started first try.i am going to use the old flywheel set up for a tach drive since it puts out 3 pulses per rev.i have tried to break the project down into steps so the work can be checked as i go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 That looks like it turned out nice. A good use for the 81 crank sensor for people that have them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 i am upgrading to chevy ls coils from my current system of using the 81 dizzy and ms firing the stock ignitor/coil.i was triggering from 3 magnets in my flywheel.i could have pulled the engine and put 2 more magnets in the flywheel for a 6-1 pattern but i decided to be lazy and use some parts i had laying around.i ground 60 teeth out of the 81zxt crank trigger wheel.then welded a tab on the a/c idler bracket for the sensor.i left all 30 teeth on and installed the dampner.i put the engine on tdc and found a tooth directly under the sensor so i made that tooth #0.i used the excel file to get my settings and it started first try.i am going to use the old flywheel set up for a tach drive since it puts out 3 pulses per rev.i have tried to break the project down into steps so the work can be checked as i go. this is kinda what ive been looking for, what other parts do you use besides the hall sensor and trimmed stock81 crank wheel? I have an 81motor as well and want to upgrade to a EDIS, im running megasquirt2 so i know ill need the coil driver kit thanks Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 You might want to look into an '82 or '83 turbo dizzy. Then you can just slap in whatever wheel you want - easy peasy. IIRC MS2 will support wasted COP/CNP. I'm running MS3 and MS3X for full distributorless and/or sequential injection.... soon.... hopefully.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 You might want to look into an '82 or '83 turbo dizzy. Then you can just slap in whatever wheel you want - easy peasy. IIRC MS2 will support wasted COP/CNP. I'm running MS3 and MS3X for full distributorless and/or sequential injection.... soon.... hopefully.... from what i have gathered i can do the hall sensor with wheel and coil drive and coild pack for under $200, i havent seen a late model distributer for under $200 If i shave the 81 CAS wheel then i can save another $40 but ill have to shave the wheel which will cost me 2 hours at least... BUT it will be easier to mount and a cleaner install choices Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 from what i have gathered i can do the hall sensor with wheel and coil drive and coild pack for under $200, i havent seen a late model distributer for under $200 If i shave the 81 CAS wheel then i can save another $40 but ill have to shave the wheel which will cost me 2 hours at least... BUT it will be easier to mount and a cleaner install choices If i shave the wheel could i still run the stock CAS? does it pick up off all 60 or just the 4 or 5 magnets? Just in case i want to shave before my parts come .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaito Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 I dont think so sir. On the other hand I have a pulley with a 36-1 edis wheel on it that I would let go for cheap. Ill even throw in my poorly made vr mount with some threaded rod to mount it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 I dont think so sir. On the other hand I have a pulley with a 36-1 edis wheel on it that I would let go for cheap. Ill even throw in my poorly made vr mount with some threaded rod to mount it. Thanks for the offer but i think grinding the wheel and tucking the sensor in the back would be allot cleaner install, and cost more time then money. Still havent started on this upgrade but id like to get it done by the end of the month.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 Picking up my coil pack,coil drivers and Ign 6 today Looking forward to the swap Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metro Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 If you have an 81 pulley with the toothed wheel and the CAS sensor and brackets, it is incredibly easy to turn it into a 30-1 wheel. I did pretty much what the OP did, ground off two teeth for every tooth and then an extra for the missing tooth. What tooth is used for the gap really doesn't matter, when you plug the info into the spreadsheet it spits out all the correct information you need. The important thing is to line your sensor up with a tooth and record that number. With the motor at TDC the missing tooth is #0 and you count backwards (counterclockwise) to find the tooth number for your sensor. In my case, I decided to reuse the mounting bracket for the original CAS. I gutted the CAS and bolted up a Hamlin hall sensor that DIYautotune sells. Acetone will dissolve the goop inside and then just chisel out the circuitry and magnets. So now you have a very sturdy and adjustable bracket for the new hall sensor. Supply 12v to the sensor and wire up MS as VR and you're good to go. Lock your timing at 10 degrees and adjust your crank angle until it lines up. Really the hardest part about doing this is removing the crank pulley. When it's off make sure the key on the snout is pointing straight up and make a note of which timing mark corresponds to TDC. There's two marks on the wheel, one is used for TDC at the timing degree marks and the other, I have no idea, but it appears to point at the CAS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Wow nice instal. Very clean. I bought the threaded Hal sensor. I may just use an angle piece of aluminum and use he cas engine mount. Looks like the hardest part of the instal is mounting the coil drivers to my ms2 I'll post my pics when I do the mods. Hoping I can get a better running and quicker starting car with this upgrade. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 If i install the Hal sensor, will this act the same as the CAS? I may do this before digging into the soldering of the coil drivers Is it a direct replacment? Pretty sure both are 3 wires Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LanceVance Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 Metro, Very clean install! I may have to look into this, definitely a lot less work than the flywheel setup I was working on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metro Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 If i install the Hal sensor, will this act the same as the CAS? I may do this before digging into the soldering of the coil drivers Is it a direct replacment? Pretty sure both are 3 wires Direct replacement for the Nissan ECCS? Probably not.. I'm not really sure what sort of signal the ECCS wants. But if you're using Megasquirt, you don't have to run wasted spark/multiple coils with a decoder wheel. I ran a single coil with the stock '81 distributor and wheel decoder without any problems. You'll still want to enter the Trigger Positions for the other coils but just leave them disabled in the spark outputs. Metro, Very clean install! I may have to look into this, definitely a lot less work than the flywheel setup I was working on... I was using a 6-1 flywheel based wheel for a while (like in the MS FAQ), but getting the sensor threaded in and out was a constant pain in the ass. A few weeks I stripped the threads on the aluminum sensor and said screw it all and created the 30-1 wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 Mattsun-if you use chevy ls coils you dont need coil drivers.The ls coils have built in drivers.I wired an old ms1 directly to the ls coils.But they had to be run in waste spark mode.cylinder 1+6 2+5 3+4.The ms 1 did not have the capability to run a full sequential efi system.To go full sequential(spark + injectors) you need a more advanced ecm with more inputs and outputs.+ you need a cam position sensor.the ms1 will drive a stock 280xzxt coil+ power transistor.Those super coils that diy efi sells with the built in coil driver can be used as a single coil wired to a distributor.If you know your electronic parts well you will find many ways to solve a problem.My zxt engine was originally an 81 so I had the 81 90 tooth crank pulley laying around.I have seen many very nice builds of crank wheels and sensors on this site but I prefer to use as few parts as possable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Thanks for the tips Randy I have already got the 3 coil drivers, Ign-6 coil, and hall sensor from DIY I was looking at the single coil set up but it was not as cost effective and not sure of the gains in performance. It might look a little better having one coil per plug but it could just be more complicated If i can get the Hal sensor to work with my current set up then i can trouble shoot the upgrade in stages Step 1 Hal sensor and stock CAS wheel mod, if everything works go to step 2 Step 2 Instal coil drivers into my MS2 and mount IGN-6 ,if everything works then go to step 3 Step 3 Enjoy Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 Can i use the stock CAS to fire my coils? I am wiring it up right now and im going to shave the wheel and add the Hall sensor when im done wiring Id like to test to see if it work before there is no going back with the grinding wheel there must be a way to trigger it with the stock 81 cas Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metro Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 The '81 CAS and wheel are only good for firing a single coil. The CAS sensor is made up of three VR sensors and it does some sort of voodoo to turn that into a digital signal that is compatible with the later optical distributor. For lack of a better term, it's a dumb signal. It will just let the ECU know it's 60 degrees (or so) BTDC, it doesn't allow any sort of reference to the crank's position. Without that information MS can't fire the other coils. I'm not sure about the internal workings of the CAS and what it expects to see vs what it will output. I don't think you can just turn the wheel into a 30-1 and have the controller inside the CAS understand what it's reading. But, I've never tried, so who knows. The trigger wheel DIYautotune sells basically does that for the optical distributor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 thanks for the reply Metro I was going to give it a shot, I have my coils in and about to wire it into the relay board, I have not done the crank grind to turn it into the 30-1 yet, Kind of just wanted to see if i can get it to fire with the stock CAS before i grind it Ill be trying it shortly Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 Just tried it, it gave some sparks but did not start up this gives me allot more confidence that my wiring of the coil drivers works....its doing something hahaha once its getting a proper signal from the 30-1 im going to make out of the stock CAS wheel it should be sweet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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