B00STDZ Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 I've been lurking in this thread... Nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted July 4, 2009 Author Share Posted July 4, 2009 Ha ha ha. Just as I should have expected. Custom work on a car/project takes 3 times as long and 3 times as much money as planned. I've been pretty good about estimating the cost, but I should have known better about the time it takes. Well here is a new update. I have completed the flare/airdam extensions, and they are ready for paint. I ended up making them from solid fibreglass, as they are small enough, that it was just easier make a mould, and then sand the pieces to fit. I know its kinda cheating, but making custom shapes is not easy. I layed plastic wrap on the fenders to act as a release, then made a mould using carboard wraped in more plastic wrap, and then mixed up some resin and fibreglass strands, and used a putty knife to fill in the mould. I will paint a first coat on everything today, and start cutting the belly pan. As far as cost goes... Aluminum sheeting 90$ fibreglass supplies 60$ sandpaper supplies 10$ expanding foam 20$ Primer and paint.. 40$ This pic shows the extensions sitting in place. I will mount them to the aluminum sheeting backing plate that I made, that screw into the airdam, and the inside of the fender. I managed to figure out a way to make it "bolt on". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rp975 Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 looks great, can't wait to see it painted... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 Wow that really ties it together man, very nice. Right on par with the rest of that piece of rolling art you have there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetleaf Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 Great work, I love how the little extensions help it blend in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 Well the paint got put off a bit. Too humid to paint effectively. I did manage to paint the backside of the airdam (not worried about a sag back there) to protect the new fibreglass. So I turned my attention to the shiny piece of aluminum in the corner that has been waiting patiently to be turned into my new pan. I bought the piece oversized (64" x 38"). I need some extra hands to help me trace the new curve of the airdam (I don't want to construct a new stand/table to help me place the aluminum so I could do it myself) The part of the belly pan that orginally stopped at the crossmember will remain the same shape, as I need the same clearance for the wheels to turn left and right, and the suspension to move freely. I will mount it in the same location on the crossmember, so I used my old bellypan to draw the template "up to" the airdam. I simply measured and laid it on top of my new sheet of aluminum and traced it out. This will give me the cutout required so I can place the new pan under the car in order to trace the new nose shape. (its a big piece of metal) Once I get some help to trace the front edge, I will get out my shears (which worked perfectly cutting the curves for the wheel/suspension clearance.) and cut the new front curve, and begin constructing the mounts. I have 5 specific mounting points so far, with 1 more I may try to give it some extra rigidity. Crossmember- 4 screws (like before) two imbeded SS bolts in the front edge. two tabs on the side of the airdam at the wheel well opening. I have an aluminum flange that is part of my radiator opening blockoff plating (I have a completely sealed wall at the front rad supports with holes cut for the rad opening, and i/c pipes) I can use this "flange" to mount the pan to as well. Then to keep the pan up against the lower airdam, I will use screws. they will not be to secure the pan, but more the keep the front edge uptight to the airdam. I'll post more pics once I get the pan cut and begin the mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Scott, not sure if you already said.. but how thick is this aluminum you are working with? I have found big pieces like that locally but they are usually flexible as all hell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted July 8, 2009 Author Share Posted July 8, 2009 Hey Evan. The stuff I'm working with is 300micron/40 thou. Plenty strong enough. This is the same thickness as the previous pan, and it lasted very well. Once it was mounted, it was plenty secure and didn't flex while driving. I was working on it again tonight. It is still raining here, so too damp/cold, so I started the mounting flanges. I created cardboard templates and then fabricated them from the same 40 thou aluminum sheeting I have. This completes the flanges I need to mount the pan. I just need to trace the front curve the airdam, and then I can mount it all up. I will start the second piece of the pan once the main pan is fully mounted. Its amazing how long it can take to create 4 flanges! The second part to the pan will likely be a challenge to mount, as I will only be able to design the mounts once I trial fit the pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted July 10, 2009 Author Share Posted July 10, 2009 Ok still no help, so I setup a new "table lift" to hold the aluminum in place while I traced the front curve. With my "power fist" at the ready, I trimmed the pan into its final shape. I have all the flanges painted and installed, and I drilled the pan for the mounting points on the crossmember. Next is to finally paint the airdam, and attach the front pan. Then start work on the second piece of the pan. I have the general shape cutout, but need the main pan to be in place to plan the position of the mounts. I am going to try and work on it this weekend and get some fresh pics up. I should try and get it on a hoist and take a picture so I can show a before and after shot of the pans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted July 12, 2009 Author Share Posted July 12, 2009 Not quite a final update. I've been working all weekend and I've almost got it completed. I have made a small cut error, and I will have to redo the second section of the pan. I am going to actually make it slightly larger to make it easier to mount it under the car. The piece I bought was 24"x24", and I need it to be a few extra inches longer and wider to make it reach the frame rails, which will make it much easier to mount the trailing edge of the pan. The main pan is fully installed, and the airdam is painted. I have opted to paint part of it with a rubberized coating to protect it from stone chips. That is why it has a textured look to it. I am going to use the same material on the rear quarters (similar look as older Porsches with the rear flare guard material) Here are a few shots from today. The lighting isn't all that great to show the detail on a black car. Sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Looks great Scott! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted July 21, 2009 Author Share Posted July 21, 2009 Time to continue. I took a bit of time to give the garage a good once over. Its now clean and ready for the next task. I picked up another piece of aluminum that is a few inches bigger, and now i'm ready. I got out the welder and did some practice welding (I have very little welding experience, and nothing more than some tips from some of my welder friends as training) I am going to weld on a couple of small steel flanges on my frame rails to act as rear mounts for the second part of the bellypan. The front edge will mount to the front crossmember. I have decided to try and weld on a flange as opposed to trying to "bolt" on something to the frame rail, but that will be my fall back position if I severely fail at welding. I have not had the car up at "go to jail" speeds, so I can't comment on any changes in the stability, but I have shaken the car down, and everything seems secure, and I'm not too worried about anything falling off the car. The air dam is almost anti climatic, as it looks different, but blends in well enough that it doesn't look "bolted on". It looks like that's the way it was supposed look like. I do like it though, and I would/will do this again, with some of my learnings, it would go better next time. The second part of the pan should go rather quick. Once I get the car up on the stands and the brakets planned out and fabbed up, it should be a straight forward install. I am not sure how I will photograph the underside right away, as it will need to go on a hoist, so it may be sometime before that happens. I will try and plan some better pics, but seeing details on a black car is not that easy. I'll get back here with some updates on the weekend if time allows me this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted July 24, 2009 Author Share Posted July 24, 2009 Project wrap up. I got back under the car and continued on the pan. I reworked my design several times planning where I could place mounts, and how to keep the pan at the same angle. I could not get the pan to go any further back than the transmission due to clearance issues around the exhaust and the clutch m/c, so I ended up going with my original idea, and stop it at the tranny. I had to notch the pan to leave some clearance for shape of the pan, but other than that it was pretty straight forward. I made flanges that bolted to the transmission/block bolts. I used foam rubber backing to go between the pan and the mount to reduce vibrations. My driveline doesn't rock much at all, so it should not pose a problem. I will monitor the situation, but it is very secure at this time. Here are a couple of pics of the pan just before I lowered it off the stands. I figured these would be the best shots I would get for now. I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out, but judge for yourself, and take what you want from my experience. Scott. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Looking good, I'm interested in your "at speed" feedback of the aero changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Very nice work. At the very least that will definately reduce drag and reduce lift inducing air flow under the car, particularly out of the engine bay. Be interested in how it drives at high speed and how cooling is affected, if at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
janaka Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 I'll just say amazing. Wow for a DIY job that looks unreal. Two HUGE thumbs up from a guy who can't do F all himself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadianz Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Very cool Scott ! Looks really nice ! I bet your going to get lots of looks at Z-fest as per usual this year ! Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 Hey mate, nice work! How long did this process take from start to finish? I am looking at doing something similar with my Z, just so I am clear! You grabbed some expanding foam and slapped it onto the original Spoiler, like so, Then trimmed it down with scissors to get this? Then I presume filled with bog, sanded and sanded and then sanded some more, primed, painted and made a fibreglass copy? Truly excellent work, I am looking at ditching the grill and making a new entrance for the radiator and possibily incorporating the bumper bar - I have seen custom spoilers made from "Automotive Clay", but stuffed if I know where I can get that from, expanding foam is much easier to get ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 hmm.. im surprised you didnt make a small hole to make draining your oil easier.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted July 27, 2009 Author Share Posted July 27, 2009 Proxlamus: Doh! Thanks. So much for planning ahead eh? Luckily it pops off pretty quick! Tonycharger72: A lot of time was spent just planning "how" I would do some of this stuff. I made a few mistakes, that cost me time and extra effort. The "table" I made to create a flat edge was very key to making things easier. Easier to create a flat bottom edge, as well as a flat surface in which to work from. I cut the foam using a drywall knife, which is heavily serated (not particularly sharp) This worked extremely well. I could have saved A LOT of effort if I had have covered the foam with a thin skim coat of bondo or something to prevent fibreglass resin from soaking into the foam. This caused extra effort to reshape it/fix it with fibreglass. I figure it extended my timeline at least a weeks worth of sanding and leveling/shaping. For comparison, it took an experienced fibreglass body man approx 1 week to construct a rear fascia on my Z from one picture and my description, and it took me a month of evenings on my own to design, build moulds, and then construct/shape the airdam. Someone should be able to use my method, and cut the time in half if they are motivated. There is still a lot of time involved in just waiting for resins to cure. I could only work on a small part at a time, and had to let things dry before recoating etc.. So there is no easy way to have this done on a weekend if you catch my meaning. I will incorporate my learnings into my future projects, and hopefully make them better and easier. Thanks, Scott. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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