Longnose R200 swap top to bottom

[streeteg]

So I have been through all the stickies, past threads, current threads, etc about putting the longnose diff I have in my garage in my 260z... and for some reason its just still not making sense. Hopefully its not out of stupidity, due to the fact that I have been around cars for a while now but it seems like there are a lot of parts with similar names, that do different things and I just at this point need someone to spell it out for me. I am sure with experience it just is really simple but I am just losing it trying to get all the parts together for the swap.

 

So far here are the parts that are floating around as possible pieces to hte puzzle:

 

Mustache bar

companion flange

cv axles

stub axles

rear cover

front diff mount

 

 

 

• From my understanding the R200 has to have a CV conversion available from modern motorsports.
  
• Connecting to the conversion are 300zx turbo CV axles
  
• Connecting the CVs to the hubs are Stub Axles? and those stub axles have to have a certain number of teeth?
  
• Mounting the Diff is a mustache bar, and a front diff mount
  
• The rear cover holds the diff onto the mustache bar
  
• The Yoke or companion flange? I dont know what that does at all....
  

My question is does anyone have individual pictures of the different parts, or a diagram on how it all comes together. I dont think ive ever had this much trouble understanding things.....

 

So essentially I have a Longnose R200, rear cover and a Mustache Bar out of a 280z. What is missing from my puzzle to get this diff into my car?!

[FlatBlack]

?? Get the R200, the 280Z R200 half shafts, and the 280Z Mustache bar [and while you're taking it apart purchase a R/T diff mount].

 

Step 1: Take out R180

Step 2: Put in R200

[streeteg]

So all I need are r200 280z half shafts? What is all this business about CV conversions etc? This whole RWD thing is new to me... (kinda)

[FlatBlack]

Heh 220 posts and RWD is new to you?

 

The LSD R200s out of the Z31s and other Nissans get complicated because they have a different spline count and the fact that they mount differently [No mustache bar] and require a different cover.

 

That's a simplification, of course - I've never actually done it, only read about it here. I have seen a Z31 diff though [i've got one ]

 

This is a good thread, check it out:

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103512&highlight=differential+list

[JMortensen]

The yoke or companion flange is the piece at the front of the differential that the driveshaft bolts to.

 

The whole thing is really not too complicated at all.

The parts list needed to bolt in a longnose R200 into a 240Z is as follows:

 

1. mustache bar from 280Z with R200

2. yoke (companion flange) from 280Z with R200

3. rear cover from 280Z or ZX with R200

4. side stub shafts from 280Z or ZX with R200 to bolt up to stock halfshafts

 

Since you have a 260, you're good to go with just this stuff as far as bolting the diff in. Note that this means if you have a diff and mustache bar from a 280Z, you just put it in.

 

With regards to the CV swap and the halfshafts being too long, there is this bit:

The R200 is wider than the stock R180 diff that comes in the 240Z, but most people use the stock halfshafts when they swap this diff in. This can lead to the halfshafts bottoming out which can cause handling issues. For more info read the R200 Handling Issues link here: http://www.betamotorsports.com/benchracing/index.html The solution here appears to be to use the CV joints from the 300ZX Turbo when installing into a 240Z.

 

If you have a late 260 you have the same body and suspension as the 280Z, so you don't have to worry about the halfshafts bottoming. If you have the early 260, then you need to deal with that issue. You can shorten the stock U-jointed halfshafts, you can run CVs (which may also need shortening) or you can lengthen the rear control arms. Easiest cheapest method to fix this problem is to shorten the stock halfshafts. There are a number of threads on how to get this done, its really not that big a deal. Examples:

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=147122

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=145643

[JMortensen]

The LSD R200s out of the Z31s and other Nissans get complicated because they have a different spline count and the fact that they mount differently [No mustache bar] and require a different cover.

 

That's a simplification, of course - I've never actually done it, only read about it here. I have seen a Z31 diff though [i've got one ]

There is a Z31 diff that has a different spline count. It is the 88 SS with the viscous LSD. It is also extremely rare compared to the open diffs and the turbo clutch LSD that came in the Z31's.

[Lazeum]

I'm kind of bias on this debate: easy or not.

I've done it couple months ago now. Whereas there are a lot of topics on the net, it was still something not obvious at first...

After having it done once, I think it is easy but this was not my thought when I was still in process.

 

Streeteg, you should start dissassembling your car if you can afford to have it sit for some days, you'll figure by yourself.

 

Something which is not on the list is 2 nuts that bolt up to the diff studs (the 2 that go thru the mustache bar).

 

Regarding the shortening of the half shaft, I would disagree. It is not so easy. shaft is hard as hell with intermitent shape that breaks apart carbide cutting tools. I'm working for the car industry with nice machine shops but not all of them have the tools to do it right or the time to take care of individuals (I'm not in the US, transmission/machine shop are difficult to find also)

 

How I've done it:

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=145643

 

Easiest solution in my book as long as you have a minimum of tool and skills:

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/bvillecar/construction%20page-23.html

 

 

When I did mine, I figured out my yoke (that connect the propeller shaft to the diff) was not right.

Check and double check, take your time to do it right once.

[streeteg]

Heh 220 posts and RWD is new to you?

 

 

Ha well most of my experience lies in new cars where its just bolt-ons and go and everybody my age is a certified mechanic. This is the first car I have really gotten into that cant have parts purchased off the shelf and installed so my learning curve is a little steeper then those who have been into classics/z's their whole career.

 

Regardless, I love working on it especially because its so unique-- it just takes me more questions.

- How do i know if its an early or late 260?

- The car MAYYYY see a drag strip (only on street tires) but most likely will not see past 350whp- Are CV's necessary? Is the axle shortening necessary?

-The car is not my daily driver, so it can sit for as long as it takes me to finish-- I just love the summer and ideally dont want it to stay in my garage for tooo long

[FlatBlack]

I don't know the months on when the 260Zs changed from early to late. Does your car have bumpers on it?

 

If it has the 240Z Type Bumper, its early, if its got the 280Z Type bumpers its late.

[streeteg]

Its so far from stock there is no way I can tell---

 

http://www.makingapril.com/greg/Eric/new.JPG

 

Looks like I am gonna tear this thing apart, and just try to put ♥♥♥♥ together... I just dont want to be snapping axles left and right... its annoying. I did it in my turbo honda when I had the slicks on and I dont want to have to do it again...

[JMortensen]

Open the rear hatch and take a picture of the rear strut towers. We should be able to look at that and tell.

 

Or you can search "240 280 differences" and figure it out yourself.