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Interesting thing about oil hoses....


Owen

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Interesting because I can't find just a regular rubber hose! I mounted my remote oil filter thing way up front and now I need another hose...so I go to the local stores and all they have is heater hoses and fuel hoses. They can't tell me if oil will work in it or not.

I don;t see oil being more corrosive than fuel...any suggestions?

Thanks,

Owen

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To save money I'm looking at the Aeroquip socket type stuff, Russel makes some too. The fittings are cheaper and so is the hose. I've had some of th eAeroquip stuff before - talk about tough stuff! Easier to work with than braided too but I'm not sure it has the same abrasion resistance. I'd NOT use standard rubber hose IMO - one pinhole will ruin your whole day!

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Standard rubber hose (or any rubber I believe) will expand and soften under exposure to oils. O-rings are a good example. If you use a standard oil to lubricate them for placement, the oil used will eventually lead to their demise. This is why special lubricants are used with these rubber parts. Also, some fluids are specifically made for rubber contact (brake fluid in particular) and will not cause the rubber to expand and soften. Test the two fluids (oil or WD40 and brake fluid) with rubber pieces in a cup some time at it will become very obvious. Anyway, rubber hoses will soften, and fail at the fitting end of the hoses by softening and then sliding out of the fitting or, if using a hose clamp, will be cut open by the clamp due to the deterioration.

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I saw that socketless hose too, looks like that's what I'm gonna use! I don't thing I'm gonna buy the sockets though, I should be able to slide them onto the filter relocator fittings and clamp them on like regular rubber hoses. Plus the relocator doesn't have AN fittings, I'd have to buy the clamps as well as pipe fittings for the clamps.

 

1/2" ID is about a -8 hose?

 

Thanks,

Owen

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Owen, I bought 1/2 to -8 fittings (4), hose (10feet for $29), 2 90 degree fittings, and two straight fittings last night. Cha-ching! However I know it will hold and look decent. I could've bought 1/2inch brass fittings and used hose clamps but I just didn't think it would look very good and the clamps can cut into th ehose. At least use the fittings on th eremote filter so it won't be so visible. The block fitting I bought was $49 too - not cheap but it's billet and has no bypass. The remote filter housing had hosizontal fittings instead of having them come out of the top like many of them do this way the hose routing is easier to do - make sure you consider where you're going to put it and pay attention to that.... Fun and games, I'll let you know how it goes....

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Thanks for the Napa info SleeperZ...now I gotta decide...

BLKMGK,

Can you tell me which part numbers you used for the hose and fittings? I still may just go with the hoses only.

Also, let me know how the installation of the bypass thing goes, it sounds like the same thing I mentioned in the oil filters post.

Owen

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The parts I bought were pretty straightforward. I bought the Moroso billet adapter for th eblock - this is for dry sump and remote filter setups. It's a quality piece and seals with O-rings. It has 2 1/2NPT holes tapped in it. Jegs 710-23700

 

I bought the Perma Cool filter mount - for a Ford filter BTW. Jegs 771-1791. DEBURR this part before using it!!! I found some nasty metal flash in the part when I looked at it closely... This has 4 1/2NPT holes tapped in it and mounts so that the fittings exit horizontally.

 

I purchased 4 Russel 1/2NPT to -8 fittings Jegs 799-6049. I purchased 2 Aeroquip 90 degree -8 fittings Jegs 023-FCM1533 and 2 Aeroquip straight -8 fittings Jegs 023-FCM1513.

 

Lastly, 10 feet of blue socketless hose Jegs 023-FCV1010.

 

Whew, good thing I was bored to look that all up icon_biggrin.gif ! I've not YET mounted the remote filter and am not yet sure where to place it. 10feet of hose should be plenty I think..

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Well, I hate to admit it/but I think California would have many more resources than Dallas has.

 

Whenever I need a custom hose I go to a shop in Plano that special cuts your hose & can even install pressure fittings of your choice.

 

Check out any Tractor Supply Shop, Big Rig-Semi Truck Tractor Supply Shops or just ask your local auto parts store where they outsource their request for special hyd.hoses; they should know off the top of their heads. Go there & you'll be surprised all the options of rubber hoses & different sizes that will meet & exceed any auto requirements you may have for any job.

 

I agree w/Terry-if its a high pressure line you may wish to consider pressure fittings; if its a low pressure line/you can get away w/hose clamps.

 

Kevin,

(Yea,Still an Inliner)

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Really strange...the link doesn't work unless you copy and paste it. But the links in my other post http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=6&t=000580

 

do work...

I notice my signature picture doesn't show every single time either...

 

 

no...the links don't work. I swear they did before...just copy and paste them please. I KNOW it worked when I dragged it into another window.

 

[ May 06, 2001: Message edited by: Owen ]

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Hrm, 6FEET each side?! Umm, shouldn't hose runs for things like oil lines be kept short? I owuld think there would be a pressure drop involved over a long run an dsince ALL oil has to go through that line I think I'd be nervous. I may have to move mine but for now it's all mounted. Need to see if the alternator will interfere (grr). Will snap some pics of today's work as soon as I get a chance - it's moving right along at last!

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Just wondering why people relocate the oil filter. I was going to, but Jim Biondo talked me out of it for some of the same reasons (extra oil, extra complication, routing difficulties, etc.)

 

When I made my exhaust, I made sure that it went around the oil filter - it's not even close. I can easily drop the big System 1 oil filter off the Transdapt spin on adapter (old 327 had a canister filter) without getting within a 1/2" the exhaust. It's a straight shot down, and easy to get to.

 

Not shooting holes, just presenting a different method.

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I'd been meaning to say something about that - If you are running oil lines to the front, I wouldn't use anything smaller than -10 (5/8") hose. A lot of the racing coolers come with -12 (3/4") fittings. Otherwise, I think you'll see an unacceptable amount of pressure drop.

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quote:

Originally posted by pparaska:

Just wondering why people relocate the oil filter.

 

I've always been curious too Pete. I assumed a few doing it were installing oil coolers as well. My filter has similar room as yours. Only a rather low install or running the KC4 oil cooler (sandwhich style/I ran it and hope to reinstall if I have the depth) would have me putting a relocation kit on. It can offer a drop in resistance as both filters are run in parallel but given hoses etc I can't see the overall pressure drop reduction being a net positive in comparison.

 

As I understand it, on the racecars I typically see it on, it's mainly a matter of easy access and twice the filtering area being in parallel if something should happen proper filtering is more likely to be retained...thoughts/ideers...BTW, I really like that KC4 sandwhich style got one and a spare on the shelf. It dropped 20 degrees in the 4th gen camaro chassis and you just plumb two coolant lines to it (I'm not a fan of plumbing oil outside my motor). I think my web detailing that has long died so I should be doing some updating.......

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