Project Z31 600zx

[bleakdragonmage]

If you'll look back through the pictures in post #12 I have a picture of my oil pan. The car is setting on car skates, so you can't really appreciate just how low to the ground the pan would be setting, but it would only be about an inch or two from scrapping.

 

As far as the exhaust, I plan on using these LS2 C6 manifolds in the short term:

 

 

 

Routing from there *should* be ok. If not, there are several other factory manifold options or even custom headers if all else fails. It's kind of hard to appreciate in my photos, but there really is a ton of room on the driver side for exhaust routing. The passenger side is going to be the tough side, the starter is going the obstacle.

 

Really...with the SBC the trouble side is the driver side. The easy side for me is the passenger. That oil pan looks huge. Mine isnt nearly that deep. Good luck with everything.

[Aaron D]

After posting that last night I went searching for some LS2 specs and found an article about an LQ9 build up. VERY interesting to me! My goals are about 400hp/400tq with good idle if I can get it. After reading this article, I think my goals are going to be quite achievable!

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_0710_6l_ls_series_small_block/index.html

 

They went on to do two more build ups on this engine that were way over the top for me, but show that this engine can take quite a bit of abuse even with cast aluminum pistions:

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_0711_6l_hop_up_pt_2/index.html

 

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_0712_blown_alky_ls/index.htm

[i r teh noobz]

I haven't had much time to mess with the Z lately, but I have a little bit of news. I was able to push the engine back a little farther and now the LS1 throttle body will clear the stock hood. A little notching my be required to make room for hoses, movement, etc, but it does fit.

[chris51881]

Think I may have the oil pan situation figured out. There are several makers of an oil pan for 1st Gen Camaro/LSx swaps that seems to fit my application perfectly. This pan may prevent any issue with the intake clearing the hood or the bell housing hitting the firewall. Either way, based on my measurements, no factory oil pan will suit me.

 

 

All factory pans listed here:

http://www.gmtruckhq.com/lsx-discussions/ls-engine-oil-pans-all-them-2720.html

 

My current truck pan is sticking down about 3" past the cross member. I want the engine to set as low as possible for obvious reasons and I want the ability to scoot the engine forward if I have to to keep from having to modify the firewall or having to buy that expensive bellhousing. This pan may be the ticket to all that. IF it does all that, then one $280-$400 pan would be a steal if that's the only custom part I have to pay for in this swap aside from a driveshaft.

 

 

if you didnt get around to getting this AutoKraft oil pan then take a look at my build. i have all the dimensions of that pan shown. you can be sure if itll fit. i got it and it looks great. the pickup fits perfect and everything. it is post #38 on page 2 here ---> click

 

great write-up so far though. keep up the good work!

[Aaron D]

if you didnt get around to getting this AutoKraft oil pan then take a look at my build. i have all the dimensions of that pan shown. you can be sure if itll fit. i got it and it looks great. the pickup fits perfect and everything. it is post #38 on page 2 here ---> click

 

great write-up so far though. keep up the good work!

 

I've definitely been keeping tabs on your build and noted your oil pan measurements! My build is on hold for a while right now. 1) My exhaust manifolds have been on back order for 3 weeks now. and 2) I lost my job Thursday! Yay recession! haha.

 

So, right now I'm job hunting. Let's hope the project doesn't have to go!

[Cable]

If you decide not to use the engine cover, I would be interested in buying it from you.

 

Thanks!!

[Langdonious Rex]

Here's an oil pan option to consider. You can pickup used LS1/LS2 GTO front sump oil pans for relatively cheap. Here's a pic of the dimensions:

[bleakdragonmage]

wouldnt a front sump pan have the engine sit too far forward and mess up how the car handles? i dont think you could keep the engine low enough or far back enough for it to work...

 

The trans will fit, but worst case is, you just have to "massage" the trans tunnel. The only thing i wouldve had problems fitting is if i had used a TH400 because the bellhousing is MASSIVE. I wouldve had to beat the ♥♥♥♥ out of the tunnel.

[Aaron D]

I appreciate the input guys, but the GTO oil pan will not work in this case. If you'll note in Post #2 and in the last pic of post #12, only a rear sump pan will clear without raising the engine several inches. The truck oil pan comes close to being perfect, but the rear sump is too deep and objects in the road would hit it if I were to use it as shown in the last pic of post #12.

 

Sorry I haven't posted much at all. I've been unemployed and my C6 LS2 exhaust manifolds have been on back order since before I lost my job. I did receive an email though that my manifolds have been shipped finally though, so that ought to give me some new pics to post soon!

[bleakdragonmage]

I want to see this thing run already lol. This was the motor i wouldve used if i didnt get a free 350 and TH350 lol.

[Aaron D]

Sorry for the super long delay. I ordered these LS2 C6 manifolds 6/28 and didn't get them until today due to a combination of backorder and the vendor shipping them to an old address, but they're finally here and mocked up.

 

 

 

Driver Side:

 

 

 

 

Looks bad....

 

 

Psych! Plenty of room for a kink! ha ha!

 

 

 

 

Passenger Side:

 

More cluttered... Must move fuel line.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It's a minor update, but it makes me feel good to have SOMETHING to post up since I'm unemployed and all.

 

 

 

Now I have to save for the transmission...

[Guest NESS89]

Thats exactly how my stock manifolds mounted up in my Z, I thought they were going to work but ended up just getting the JTR headers.

[Bart Hoedemaker]

Wow, when I look at the engine bay, so much stuff in there lol, can hardly see.

[i r teh noobz]

Finally got my engine/trans mounted. My only issue with my setup is the F-body oil pan requires a high engine mount position. The upside is that the pan sits level with the crossmember so I won't have issues with ground clearance. It seems a bit high, but my stock hood will fit, so I'm happy. I've matched up my output shaft with the pinion angle and everything looks fine. The mounts need a finish weld, but I'm far enough to start my brake/fuel systems. I suppose I should start my own thread and stop stealing yours.

 

 

 

Used stock VG30E mounts, cut waaaayyy too far, hence the giant gap.

 

 

 

[Aaron D]

Thanks for the update! Looks like you could definitely build an informative build thread now. My thread has been stale for a while due to lack of funds (Still unemployed). The only update I've got right now is a few replaced interior pieces.

 

I have a question though, Did you ever swap your intake around for clearance or were you able to get your hood to clear without having to do that?

[i r teh noobz]

I was able to drop down enough to make it fit. I'll have to notch out some of the hood supports, but it will fit. With that autokraft pan, you should be fine. My pan requires me to mount the engine about 1-2 inches higher up, but I wanted to protect the sump, so I kept my pan. I suppose a modified f-body pan would work as well. The sloped section right in front of the sump area interferes with the steering rack unless you cut the firewall and move the engine back another inch or two. If you can weld aluminum, you might be able to cut that part out (not sure how that would affect the pickup tube).

 

Definitely go with the car water pump and balancer. The truck pump's outlet sticks up past the ls1 throttle body and would actually require me to cut a hole in my hood to run the hose. That would get some looks .

[sq_creations]

I may have missed it but what was the weight of the lq9?

[Aaron D]

523lbs with oil, manifolds, intake, water pump, and flywheel etc. Basically everything except the Harness, A/C compressor, Alternator, Power steering pump, Clutch fan, or accessory brackets.

 

The Iron block engines add approximately 65lbs to the LSx package vs the Aluminum block versions. I've owned both, there is no great reason for the expense of the sleeved aluminum blocks IMO.

[Juicy J]

Pretty cool project. I wish you the best of luck. There are 2 people I can think of that tried this swap and ended up giving up. The vertical dimensions of an LSX create a lot of problems with trying to make it fit. You might get by with using a cowl hood, but even that may present some issues. If I remember correctly, the intake manifold/piping is going to cause some issues at the front of the hood, which might make is hard to even use a cowl hood.

 

My fiance's dad has a Z31 with a SBC. It was impossible to use a stock hood with this set up because the carb was about an inch too tall. They ended up having to put a scoop (actually looks decent) in order to clear the carb.

 

Good luck man.

[i r teh noobz]

Still haven't gotten around to making my own thread, but I do have an update: Hooker LS1 block huggers fit my car quite well. They clear my engine mounts, and should clear the steering rack with a slight s-bend.

 

I'm currently deciding on HP Tuners/EFI Live to delete the VATS and trouble codes so I can start this beast! Then I get to pull it back out for a cam swap...