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Spun bearing? Gonna pick up this beaut for


RUZN

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Spun bearing? Gonna pick up this beaut for $2900.00 interior exterior super mint all stock so untouched yay! But it apparently has a Spun bearing. I havent heared it yet but whats repair options? alldata is down. Im a apprentice mechanic I kow I can do the job but is there a way to maybe drop cradle or get to the underneith and replace rod bearing without pulling the engine?

 

havent worked on the Z32's yet so wondering...

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He says bearing and from what I can tell you should be able to drop oil Pan then unbolt U guess the lower retaining bracket and then the two rod bolts to free thebearings. I would just replace them all while I was in there. Anyone had the lower half off with relative ease?

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It can be done but as said above I would not recommend it. You will be putting a band-aid on a problem that WILL come back. I would suggest pulling and freshening the engine at the least.

 

+1...

 

As Dan mentioned, you should be at minimum rebuilding the engine or replacing it. :wink:

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Why do you have to make things impossible.. BRAAAAAAAPP and others LOL. !! Can't life just be easy for once lol.. where are the Magical Engine Gnomes who fix your engine for Seeds and berries.

 

So are you guys wanting me to rebuild this BIOTCH or what lol.. What do you think Ill need.

Oh Masters.. Tell me the answers I am your Mechanic Slave lol..

 

Make a List.. no Not a Wish list boyz dont get carried away now :mrgreen:

On a small Side Job Budget lol Till I get back in a dealership or Shop lol making the good mulah!

 

LIST:

 

Rods (all?)

Bearings (all?)

GIANT TURBOS! (wishlist)

Lower End Gaskets

hmm Maybe Timing belt while im in there hey! (all front oil seals?)

 

Waiiit a minute........ Is this my Eagle Talon TSI all over again! hehe

 

oh! also Do any older model 1987 or 1988 300zxt Parts interchange? Rods ect ect anything better?

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Ok guys brother wants my 1981.5 T-Tops 280zxt (with my light mods)

And total price of his 300zxTT is $2900.00 OBO So I said I'd part with my 280zxt for minimum $1500.00 Cause it needs some bushings and blah blah the normal here and theres lol.

 

His Z32 he suspects has a Spun bearing so here is the Z32

Should I trade or not?

 

Now I am a Fairly decent Mechanic/inovator lol after all im in school for the damn trade. I have worked on my older nissans all my live but this is a whole new can of worms so!

 

What do you guys think Head in there and get greasy for this Z or wait wait wait For another lol

 

She's calling me... she gave me that evil Deamon eye! what do I do Boyz!

Z32 Front_thumb.jpg

Z32 Rear end_thumb.jpg

Z32TT Engine_thumb.jpg

Z32TT interior_thumb.jpg

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hmmmm

 

Auto?

It's a nice looking car, but the engine bay space in the z32 is ridiculous!

It's really up to you, but know that the engine will be coming out of it. Personally, I'm not a huge fan of autos, so I might skip on it, but you could easily sell it for double in the states considering that it's rhd.

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Why do you have to make things impossible.. BRAAAAAAAPP and others LOL. !! Can't life just be easy for once lol.. where are the Magical Engine Gnomes who fix your engine for Seeds and berries.

 

So are you guys wanting me to rebuild this BIOTCH or what lol.. What do you think Ill need.

Oh Masters.. Tell me the answers I am your Mechanic Slave lol..

 

Make a List.. no Not a Wish list boyz dont get carried away now :mrgreen:

On a small Side Job Budget lol Till I get back in a dealership or Shop lol making the good mulah!

 

LIST:

 

Rods (all?)

Bearings (all?)

GIANT TURBOS! (wishlist)

Lower End Gaskets

hmm Maybe Timing belt while im in there hey! (all front oil seals?)

 

Waiiit a minute........ Is this my Eagle Talon TSI all over again! hehe

 

oh! also Do any older model 1987 or 1988 300zxt Parts interchange? Rods ect ect anything better?

 

I'm going through the bottom end of my Z32 right now, because of a bad turbo and low compression (how's compression read on yours?).

 

Before considering buying, I'd check compression and figure out whether it's a rod bearing or a main bearing. Nissan's rods in the VG30DETT are quite stout, and I would probably pass if they needed to be replaced.

 

Here's my list of parts:

1) new turbos: you really only want to get in there once, and swapping turbos is an engine pull event

2) new intercoolers: not strictly necessary, but mine were filled with oil and turbo parts

3) new fuel injectors: gotta feed those big honkin' turbos somehow, and swapping to new-style injectors is a big reliability mod

4) new pistons, wrist pins, and rings: I was down compression in cylinder 5.

5) 120K service kit: new timing belt, water pump, cam seals, crank seals, idler pulleys and studs, belt tensioner, drive belts, VTC springs, and VTC seals

6) about 5 billion pre-formed 4-ply silicone hoses, to replace all the crumbling ones I pulled out

7) turbo hardpipes: my rubber hardpipes were toast even before I pulled the motor.

8) new Howe 4-row aluminum radiator: when you pull the upper radiator hose, you will find that the neck has crumbled inside of it. Just avoid the hassle of trying to JB weld a neck on it and do it the right way.

9) Z1 "street max" clutch: gotta hold all that power somehow, plus my old one was toast.

10) ARP main, head, and rod bolt kit: cheap insurance, since the old head bolts are torque-to-yield, you don't want to reuse them.

11) Cometic head gasket: multi-layer steel. This is mostly because I'm (going to be) running significantly bigger turbos, and I saw a guy with the same setup blow his (stock) head gaskets the first time he opened up full boost.

12) valve seals: if I'm gonna have a 0 mile bottom end, I want to at least revisit the top end.

13) OEM main and rod bearings: probably the best option out there.

 

Services Purchased:

1) valve job: turns out most of my compression in cylinder 5 was due to burned exhaust valves.

2) align-honed main bearings: new hardware requires at least a glance down the main bearing bores.

3) ceramic coating for the piston crown, and dry film lube for the skirt: not strictly necessary, but cheap insurance ($250 locally) to help in the case of detonation.

4) .020" bored cylinders: gotta accomodate those 0.5mm bigger pistons somehow...

5) polished crank journals: new bearings deserve new mating surfaces.

 

This is all costing me a good bit more than $2900, so take it as you will. I would *not* recommend pulling the motor unless you're either willing to go the whole 9 yards, or swap something maintainable in, though. It is easy to get the "while you're at it" disease bad, too.

 

Oh yeah, and the Z31 turbo shares nothing with the Z32 turbo.

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Well see I'm not sared of doing the work I love to sit there till 3 in the morning fixing crap Specially a Nice Z like the Z32's. I figure I would just buy a clunker Car to drive till I finished the 300ZXtt repairs so... I mean the main thing is yeah what is it Rod or Main bearing right if its main bearing its better then? come on you guys are you saying the 300zxtt is a pile or what lol. I mean I Love my 280z's dont get me wrong lol. I mean I already looked into running engines online anywhere from $1300 to $2000. so in the end I guess I could save up $1500 or so and get a Decent 50k running Swapper right and then have tons of extra parts from the "Spun bearing engine" right...

 

Ah So wanting this Car to. I mean if its 2900 + 1500 for new/used engine then im only paying 4400$ for a good condition DETT right.. sooo..... thats what they normally go for about or even upwards of 10,900 for modified right.. although Ill keep this one forever lol.. TELL ME GENTS TELL ME. If you were me and you had my 280zxt (modified 300zxt ECU) would you trade it for the 300zxtt Spun bearing possibly.

 

He says now he went to like Brake Stop!!! wtf is brake stop!!! last I hear brake shops arent great for diagnosing engine issues.. maybe its something stupid liek a Waterpump or Cam bearings lol alternator bearing hahahah.. im gonna see the car tonight Ill post pics and try to get a you tube Vid or something from my phone OKIES!!!

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The VG30DETT is a finicky beast. I would not "just" buy a swapper unless I was sure of the condition of the donor.

 

As far as condition goes, get a leakdown test, a compression check, and be absolutely certain of its last timing belt change. Between the donor and the original engine, you should probably be able to find enough electronics to make the swap work.

 

I just don't think it's worthwhile to pull that monster unless you're going to be putting a beast back together. They're fun in stock form (at least, if you bump the boost up to 12-14psi and richen it up), but even then you're dancing on a knife edge between the 100% duty cycle on the 370cc injectors and the edge of reliability of the stock teeny-weenie turbos.

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Yeah I have a Lead on a $1000 Engine just North of me. Guy imports from Japan so yeah hard to know actual KM's/Miles on it looks clean but thats what engine shampoo is for lol.

 

Also have a Lead on a $100 PULSAR!! 1989 my first freaking car I ever owned baby woohoo.

 

She said the fuel line popped off and she thinks it will be tons of $$$ to repair. I was like "where are you located? when could i come pick it up *reattaches hose* and drive away LOL

 

So I'll have my beater to drive cheap on gas while I let my 280z Sit and I think over the next couple weeks.

 

Guys brother has another Z32 with with JimWolf upgrade so he wants me to repair his over fueling O2 sensors lol.

 

But yeah I think I would be building this one to Semi Beast Form lol like newer Front mount intercooler porting intakes probably increase TB size and finding some other aftermarket intake plenum if they exist.. Has to be a way to clean up that hulking intake lol

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But yeah I think I would be building this one to Semi Beast Form lol like newer Front mount intercooler porting intakes probably increase TB size and finding some other aftermarket intake plenum if they exist.. Has to be a way to clean up that hulking intake lol

If you're going to upgrade the VG30DETT, I think these guys have the right idea. You're going after the fruit at the very top of the tree, when there's stuff at eye level that's worthwhile.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I suggest you check out NICOClub.com. Find the Z32 section, there is tons of info there.

 

I would also suggest to re-build the engine that is in the car. You can make a monster out of it, and check all components to make sure they are good. If you were wanting to get a drop in engine, look at Concept Z Performance, or Z1 Motorsports. They can get a front cut for you. They are also reputable companies. As well, there is Ztune.ca. They are located in BC and I've had nothing but great service from them.

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  • 1 year later...

I guess the real question is how afraid of pulling the engine are you? There's a lot that could be done w/o pulling the engine, but things will be a LOT easier to fix with the engine out, not to mention setting up the 5sp manual is easier that way too. the RHD Z32 is worth a bit, but only to the right people, so you can't really count that as value. So if you get the car (sounds like you should) then pull the engine, look at what it needs, repair or replace. it's that easy, but not cheap or quick. The body looks good. and it's a lot easier to put a TT engine back into one that had it, rather than swapping to an NA. Keep in mind tho if you buy a JDM engine, you should open it up and check it out anyway since you don't know what it's been through.

 

Phar

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  • 2 weeks later...

Be sure to also check the rod housing bore to ensure its dimension wasn't altered when the bearing spun. In some cases the journal on the crank is damaged as well resulting in the crank to either be turned down or replaced if you have a spare crank laying around. Further more I would ensure you tear everything down and look over everything extremely well and begin to see what you can reuse in the way of internal parts. If you plan to upgrade the internals which most will suggest you will incur more expense due in part by the machining of the block/heads and balancing of the crankshaft.

 

At best have all your parts torn down and inspected and checked to ensure they are within spec as is. If any are not you may want to just source some OE replacement parts and begin your journey from there. Even a well built OE rebuild can do wonders in reliability and power production. Don't cheat yourself and slap it together for the sake of getting it back on the road. I build many VGs and I see a lot of missed steps in the assembly and issues that lead to engines down their fatal road very early in life.

 

if you have any questions feel free to PM/email me. All of us here are willing to guide you in the right direction as best as one can.

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