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Help! My engine is Flooding !


cachanilla86

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Heres the story:

 

Abouth a month and a half ago, I bought a 1978 280Z, which was stripped of of almost all the components of the fuel injection system.

 

Here's a pic of the engine bay the day I got the car:

dsc01524.jpg

 

I wanted to keep the EFI setup, so I bought everything from a friend...and this is how it looks now

 

dsc01782crn.jpg

 

This is da problem: Since I'ill be swapping a RB engine, I bought the a Walbro GSL392 external fuel pump, and it has a flow rate of 255 liter per hour...

 

The new pump almost "bolts"-on in the stock location...and I used the original fuel damper

dsc01808o.jpg

 

So, where's the problem? some people told me its the higher flowing pump the problem, others say its the fuel injectors sticking...can the fuel damper bring higher fuel pressures?

 

The engine only keeps running for about 15 seconds until it floods, and The 6 spark plugs where all wet with gasoline...

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definately sounds like fuel presure or volume way to high. especially if all 6 plugs are wet. I would say one plug is stuck open, but it sounds like all of them are getting flooded.

 

have you considered checking the grounds or the trigger wires for the injectors to make sure that they are not stuck open due to shorts?

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  • 2 weeks later...

a clogged return line coudl cause high fuel pressure yielding a rich condition, a bad or disconnected O2 sensor causes a rich condition, an a bad or disconnected CHTS will cause severe rich to the point of flooding a warm engine, it;s on the lower thermostat hosing, it's the oen with 2 wires looks liek a fuel injector plug

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The 225 should not cause a problem IF the return line is free and unrestricted. I have resurrected SEVERAL cars from the dead in conditions like you show there.

 

Get a pressure gauge on the header and see where it is...I'd place it in a "T" on the RETURN line. You shouldn't have more than 2-4 psi there. If you have more, it MAY be from swarf in the line, or the higher volume pump. If you have a larger container with a fairly airtight way to route the FPR/Return line to it at the engine, you can disconnect the line to the back of the car and let it flow into THAT for a while and check if it runs better without getting a pressure gauge. HAVE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER HANDY!

 

Blow through the return line, it should be free and unrestricted. If not, take the hose off at the back by the tank and blow forward, likely it will be free, if it's not fix that first....but DO NOT reconnect the fuel line.

 

Hook up a line to the return fitting on the tank and blow into IT as well. I have had FOUR cars clog there, INSIDE the tank. The FIRST elbow inside the tank seems susceptible to clogging by junk that washes down the return line from storage.

 

I take a brazing rod, or coathangar that I put a little 'jig' in the end to make it like a sewer snake. I cut the tip with a side cutting wire pliers so it has a diamond-shaped end for cutting into the clog. Then I mark the inches on the wire, clamp a vice grips onto it tightly, and then take a hard mallet and whack the wire in 1/2" at a time till its past the first bend inside the tank. Do it a couple of times to knock it out good and give a good flow. The gas returning will likely wash whatever's left back into the tank over time. Once I've opened them up this way, I've not had it return.

 

My bet is with it sitting in or near Mexicali long enough to get like that first photo, it's in the exact same state most of my cars get when I pull them home about 2 hours north of the border! For some reason they like to plug there after having the lines open. I think the Leaf-Cutter Beatles make nests down inside. The pressure washed them to the elbow where it plugs up. That's what it was on the last tank I did---on my son's 510 Wagon. It only sat with the return line open for 6 months in the back, and those little bastard beetles put a nest inside there, that I didn't see when reconnecting the line...I dug it out of the tank with the same technique of coathangar, vice grips, and mallet!

 

Good Luck!

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  • 4 weeks later...

¡¡IT'S ALIVE!!

 

After 2 long years, the Engine finally came to life Yesterday.

 

It was the "Cold Start Valve", was getting stuck, sometines it flooded the engine and other times it didnt inject any gasoline.

 

And what about the Starts-but-stops Problem? The Fuel Injection system came from a 1977 Z, and the Ignition Switch wiring was a bit different, and I let a friend do the wiring. FAIL. The START and RUN wires where backwards :( that why the engine didn't start

 

Heres a 1:42 min. Video of the engine running, still runs rough.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yk8BK_wU6FQ

 

Im still using the L24E AFM, but I adjusted it and now it works great.

 

Thanks everybody for teh help!!!

 

Next Year: RB20DET FTMFW!!

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