JMortensen Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 It's on the small side is because of the smaller motor, and the type of usage. For autocrossing you need power all the way through the rpm range. I came at them wanting a 228R which is probably right about the size you have now, but they were pretty sure that was a bad idea for my purposes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
janaka Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 that's just a lil guy! I run a Vengeance VRX4 in my Camaro. 228/230 .598/.592 on a 112, and it's awesome! I am considering pulling it out and going bigger. It's been said time and time again, but drivability comes from a good tune. I'm looking to go to something in that size as I'm running a 224/224 .567" on 114+4 right now... if you pull that out let me know as I might be interested in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slammed68 Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 I have the 228R, I would say buy it if you're wanting driveability and boost in all around power, not specifically high or low end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Cam finally came in a couple days ago, went to pull the front cover off and couldn't get the crank bolt off. Drained the air compressor enough to where it popped back on and let it fill, tried again, still nothing. Turned up the regulator to 120 psi. Nothing. Gave up, rented a 3/4" impact, tried again, still nothing, aside from a chewed up a cheap ass Harbor Freight 15/16" impact socket, then finally found my Craftsman 24mm, drained the compressor again and let it fill, tried about 4 more times and FINALLY broke the damn crank bolt loose. I hope the rest of the installation doesn't go like this... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 (edited) Cam finally came in a couple days ago, went to pull the front cover off and couldn't get the crank bolt off. Drained the air compressor enough to where it popped back on and let it fill, tried again, still nothing. Turned up the regulator to 120 psi. Nothing. Gave up, rented a 3/4" impact, tried again, still nothing, aside from a chewed up a cheap ass Harbor Freight 15/16" impact socket, then finally found my Craftsman 24mm, drained the compressor again and let it fill, tried about 4 more times and FINALLY broke the damn crank bolt loose. I hope the rest of the installation doesn't go like this... Make sure you use the correct puller to remove the crank pulley and the correct tool to re-install the crank pulley. Do not attempt to use the crank bolt to re-install the crank pulley because you'll just end up destroying the threads in the crank. I usually will smear some anti-seize inside the crank pulley before re-installing it. Seems to help it slide on easier while using the installer tool. Also, you can't reuse the stock crank bolt since they are TTY bolts (like the 10mm factory head bolts). When I am putting a motor together I just use some red loctite on the new crank bolt threads and set my impact to max torque and call it good. I've done 25+ engines this way and never had a problem. Edited January 16, 2011 by Cable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 (edited) Interesting... I did finish the cam swap (EASY!!!), installed the dual roller chain/pushrods/springs, and my new setup did come with a new crank bolt so I'm good there. I need to get an LS1 balancer as I'm going to run LS1 accessory drive parts. I did hone the old balancer out to use it to locate the timing cover correctly, but I haven't even bought the new one yet. What does the tool do and where can I get one? Seems strange that a dead blow hammer wouldn't suffice here... Edited January 16, 2011 by JMortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Beating the crank pulley on with a hammer will MURDER the thrust bearings in the engine. I have a specialized tool for re-installation, but I believe AutoZone and similar parts stores offer it in a 'loan-a-tool' fashion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 I'll check out the tool. Maybe I'm underestimating the interference fit of the pulley, but I would think that the thrust bearings should be able to take a couple whacks with a dead blow. I would think that a couple smacks with a hammer isn't going to put anything like the kind of stress that my dual 7.25" clutch is going to put on them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Went and rented the tool. Of course the supplied bolt is about 3" too short. Will get the pulley and a bolt tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 (edited) I get it now. That pulley is pressed on pretty hard, so hammering it on would not only be a PITA, it would take more than a few taps with a dead blow. I can definitely see damaging the thrust bearings by whaling on the front of the crank for an hour with a hammer... So I put the dual row chain on and pressed on the pulley with the tool and I have about 1/8" of the seal surface of the balancer protruding out of the front crank seal after I am pretty sure I bottomed the pulley on the crank. Does that sound right? Just wasn't sure if it should suck all the way in there, or if spacing everything else out means that the pulley will be spaced out too. The tool feels bottomed out. Edited January 18, 2011 by JMortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 ...pressed on the pulley with the tool and I have about 1/8" of the seal surface of the balancer protruding out of the front crank seal after I am pretty sure I bottomed the pulley on the crank. Does that sound right? Just wasn't sure if it should suck all the way in there, or if spacing everything else out means that the pulley will be spaced out too. The tool feels bottomed out. Sounds right to me. Brand new crank pulley? If so, everything is good to go. The reason it looks odd is because the used units will rust a tad on any bare metal left exposed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Yep, brand new pulley. I... uh... guess I could have just looked at the old one. Looks exactly the same, so I think I'm good to go. Thanks for the help Cable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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