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How big's that nut?!


BLKMGK

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Okay, I've got a set of stub axles that I need to remove, these are from a 280Z. I think 've managed to unpeen the edges well enough to give them a tug and try to remove them from the struts. However I've not go tclue one as to what size socket to use! It's smaller than 30mm but bigger than 20mm - what size is that sucker?! Looks like I'm going to have to buy one icon_rolleyes.gif Been soaking it for two days in Liquid Wrench along with a little heat so I hope it's nearly prepared to surrender icon_smile.gif

 

Thanks!

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You know, I pulled stubs out of an '83 ZXT the other day at a scrapyard. I had no trouble with that nut. I jammed the lug studs with a long crowbar, put a 4' gas pipe over the end of my 25" 1/2" breaker bar, pulled up hard, and it turned right off. The other side came off as well, no problem.

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ATM, I am being extremely cheap. I am going to get some 280 stubs as well, who knows, maybe I'll try to graft the two together and make my own CV conversion, heheh. Since I'm getting laid off, and I have a kid going in for major surgery soon, I'm enjoying some time at the Pick-n-Pull - no one else is pulling stub axles, that's for sure!!

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Tried that nut tonight - whew! Nearly snapped the prybar working it tonight. Might have to try some hot wax and an impact next time around. This sucker is stuck pretty good, I'll try the other tomorrow to see if it's any looser. Liquid wrench isn't real good but it's what I've got. An impact may make a difference. Could only get a 12pt socket though...

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"Tried that nut tonight - whew! Nearly snapped the prybar working it tonight." How much prybar? 4' minimum for Z's I've found. ZX's weren't too different but not typically corroded/locked quite as hard as Z's. A good deal IMO is the cambell hausfield severe (or heavy?) duty 380 or 400 ft-lbs impact. Took care of mine. I've used up to 5' of prybar at yards to remove theirs. On peened ones, a die grinder or dremel end to grind out the peened part works well. If not, one can damage the threads without too much consequence as those threads are not used for clamping anyhow.....just repair with a file if need be.

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2' breaker and the floor jack handle, using the weight of the car is what I did. It's a fine line between just enough room and tire spin, when you already removed the drum brake components. I just wish I would have known about the 280 stub axles being stronger before I did the disc conversion.

Sad part is I have the impacts, just don't have a big enough compressor, YET!

I once read on the "other" site, rather then using the breaker bar on the nut, use it on the studs of the hub, put a simple 1/2" ratchet on the nut locked into the control arm and you have easy access to the studs for all your weight to push/pull with the biggest tube you can get for leverage. Replacing the studs is something you should do after this venture anyways.

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That's the point he's making, they were NOT peened. The later ZX nuts where a self locking flange nut. But they still needed some grunt to get off. But you don't screw up the threads with it. I replaced my Z nuts with the ZX nuts, and my Z (and wife) couldn't be happier.

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Holy smokes, I think this damned nut married the threads! I managed to cut away the peened over part and am indeed using th ejack handle to no avail! The bar actually starts to flex, was afraid I'd snap it! Will probably take it to my friend's shop and try his impact - he's got a MONSTER! Any impact that can cinch down a crush sleeve on a rear is something to be feared icon_smile.gif My impact makes lot's of noise, NO movement at all! Heated it up, melted some wax into the threads - nothing. Liquid Wrench is laughed at. This is one bad MF! I'll win or die trying (lol) bonk.gif

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Nah, the breaker was going to snap. I had my foot on the workbench, strut inthe vice, and had the bar flexing WAY too much!

 

I DID get my NUTZ off though icon_biggrin.gif

 

Drilled a hole down the side where the flat was real close to the stub. Worked th ehole such that it was close to the far edge too. Took a chisel and sort of cracked th enut. Sprayed it with oil and pried on it again - came right off as soon as the oil managed to get in there. Second one I just cut th eflats off of the nut, sprayed it one more time, and pried - it came off with much less force. icon_biggrin.gificon_biggrin.gif

 

So, now what? Flange is off but stub is retained. What works best to get the stub out? I've got a brass hammer but.... smack it? No slide hammer and it's not on the car so what works best? Geez, the things I do for this car icon_smile.gif Heh, got my nutz off but my stub is stuck (ROTFL). coollook.gif

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Guest Anonymous

I have been working on my own strut tubes and needed to get my nuts off, too icon_smile.gif I went by a local machine shop that I frequent and they let me borrow their 3/4" Ingersol impact wrench. Just so happens they had a 27mm socket, too. That baby turned the nuts right off! My smaller impact did nothing.

Now I have to get my stub axles out, too. My problem is that they are NOT on the car icon_rolleyes.gif Makes'em harder to beat on.

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