z-ya Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 Looking really sweet! Did you blen just the color, or did you have to blend the clear too? On my rear quarter I blended the color coat and it came out nice. Now I need to blend the clear at the roof pillar. I was going to use some blending reducer in the clear. Any suggestions? Thanks, Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 your going to want to reclear it also, not just the base color. heres how i did mine. i sanded it down with 1000 grit 1ft pass the respray area and mask it off there. make sure you get a good smooth sand so use a grey fine scuff pad with scuff gel if availible because it will throw fisheyes in your clear if you dont get a good fine scuff. spray the area and feather it out leaving a 1ft scuff area between the mask base. tack rag run through the base and flash time of corse. now with the clear mixed, reclear it 4-6 inches pass the feather basecoat but the trick is to leave about 5-6"inch scuff area remaining between masking tape and new clear. then with an aerosal clear blending spray can availible from any automotive paint store, spray the cutoff line of the clear with the aerosol blending spray. what this does is melts the new clear into the old scuff clear. flash time, then wet sand it with 1500 and up only! and buff it out. it should come out clean. when you spray the blending spray, be careful to not make it run. the blending spray is not neccesary but i makes wetsanding blend area easier to work with instead of sanding blending in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 Yes, I will re-clear the whole panel. I will blend it in the narrow area where the roof meets the rear quarter. Did you clear right up to the end of you scuffed area and then the blending spray over the last new coat of clear just in that area? Or did you leave a small scuffed area (that was previously cleared), and then just spray the blender there after the last clear coat? This is what I am using for a blending spray: http://semproducts.com/images/tech_files/38403%20TDS.pdf This says to spray it over the blended edge, which I interpret as having fresh clear on it. Thanks, Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostiswhatsfordinner Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 Wow... What an amazing job. Ive seen pros do terrible jobs, and this is about as good as it gets as far as DIY. Im not a body guy at all but Im gonna try my hardest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 (edited) Yes, I will re-clear the whole panel. I will blend it in the narrow area where the roof meets the rear quarter. Did you clear right up to the end of you scuffed area and then the blending spray over the last new coat of clear just in that area? Or did you leave a small scuffed area (that was previously cleared), and then just spray the blender there after the last clear coat? This is what I am using for a blending spray: http://semproducts.com/images/tech_files/38403%20TDS.pdf This says to spray it over the blended edge, which I interpret as having fresh clear on it. Thanks, Pete clear it and leave about 4-5 inches of scuff area remaining so you can wetsand and buff it all together. do not reclear all the way to edge of scuff area!!! it should be easier to blend a solid color. that product is to spray on the edge of the fresh clear. it melts the edge of the fresh clear onto the original sluff clear for a finer finish. Edited September 30, 2009 by piston edit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 Very nice work! It always amazes me when I see quality DIY paint jobs like this and then see the pathetic paint jobs from the factory on brand new cars, even luxury cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 you should color match the zg's bro it would look so much nicer IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted October 4, 2009 Author Share Posted October 4, 2009 you should color match the zg's bro it would look so much nicer IMO nah, i dont like the look of match painted zg's. i wanna keep it vintage and original zg style. im just going to do it flate black same goes to all my window and door chrome trims. or maybeeven gloss black? looks good on some of the japanese z's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted October 5, 2009 Author Share Posted October 5, 2009 (edited) this weekend i touched up the doors with bondo on low areas and reprimered them saturday. wetsand this morning and just finish spraying this 10 mins ago. is so freaken hard to spray metalic on flat areas and not have dark spots but i think i managed to pull off this one being patient and walking around the doors looking for dark areas as i lay down mist coats of metalics on to even things out. the doors on the z are so flat its almost impossible to smooth a ding flat. if you have a beat up ding up odoor, have fun..here you can see my low spots i touched up on the white round spots. for some reason i had a high spot. and more lo spots on passenger door. check out the 220 scratches. both sanded down and sitting waiting for paint as i mix. after 3 coats of base metalic and a mist 4th coat. 2-3 coats of wet on wet clear for this clear im using and dont worry about wasting clear, just dump it and throw the extra away. i use to try and use as much as i can and find mself dealing with runs. thats a PITA. they will sit here like this for the rest of the night until tomorrow. i have a bad habit of looking at them after fresh paint and screwing it up or accidently rubbing the fresh pant. so im calling it a night. Edited October 5, 2009 by piston edit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky Ricer Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Looks awesome! Great read. I'm doing the same with mine as soon as I start tearing into it, but going with LAC (Ultimate black opal, GTR SpecV color)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 My doors were worse than that. I'm happy with how they look now. Nice work. I know about runs in the clear. I blended my rear quarter over the weekend and it came out great except for the runs in the clear coat. What was the procedure you used to sand out the runs? Are you concerned with panels not matching because you are painting the car piece meal? I guess if you are consistent with the same primer, same color lot code, same number of color and clear coats you shouldn't have a problem. Hopefully I don't as I has to re-paint one door, the hatch, and one front fender. Everything else was done all at the same time. I'll know when I get it all together and out of the garage. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted October 5, 2009 Author Share Posted October 5, 2009 the runs are a pita. im considering redoing the panel because of the clear running. no matter how much you wetsand it, the run wave will be there as it all goes down at the same levelwhen you sand. its not noticeable but like i say, because i know its there, i can see it. plus i pulled it out into the evening sunlight and notice minor metalic flakes glow more in some spots from certain angles, annoys me. im going to redo the body rear panels over since i got extra paint and clear. im just going to reclear the whole side panels. damn...lol. looks good from 10 ft away though!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted October 5, 2009 Author Share Posted October 5, 2009 Looks awesome! Great read. I'm doing the same with mine as soon as I start tearing into it, but going with LAC (Ultimate black opal, GTR SpecV color)! thats going to look clean. make sure you dont have any waves in your panels or it will show for sure.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted October 12, 2009 Author Share Posted October 12, 2009 (edited) repaint the chaisis today after two days of bordy work on the clear coat run and minor defects/low on driver side. it will never be perfect so oh well, came out better than first time. 3 coats of base. 3rd mist coat to even out metalic. 2 coats of clear wet on wet. roof. one tiger stip in the middle but thats ok, thats where my cut off was. but notnoticeable. seems like its the same pic over and over buts its progress for me and a crap load of sanding and prep work. i have a feeling its going to be slightly off color by a bit but we'll see what happens when its all together. i have a new solution to take care of the clear runs. use a DA and 800grit, machine DA the area dry.. fallow 1000grit by hand andbuff it out. Edited October 12, 2009 by piston pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kijana Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 very nice work..keep it up. I am no expert in painting but just like you, i repainted my own car this spring and learnt a lot. Dont worry too much about the clear coat runs. The easiest way to remove the runs is with a NEW scrapper blade, then DA buff with 800 followed by DA 1000 (wet sand). I want ahead and DA sanded the whole car with 2000 (wet sanding) and oh my....it was so smooth. Anyway, here are some pics to keep you motivated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 very nice work..keep it up. I am no expert in painting but just like you, i repainted my own car this spring and learnt a lot. Dont worry too much about the clear coat runs. The easiest way to remove the runs is with a NEW scrapper blade, then DA buff with 800 followed by DA 1000 (wet sand). I want ahead and DA sanded the whole car with 2000 (wet sanding) and oh my....it was so smooth. Anyway, here are some pics to keep you motivated You used a razor blade to get most of the run out? I am assuming using it perpendicular to the surface? Thanks, Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted October 16, 2009 Author Share Posted October 16, 2009 i know about the razor blades but thats really risky. i tried it and its hard to control the blade and angle of cut and went into my primer. lol. the trick is to tape the ends of the blades to raise the edges and cut perpendicular. i say use a hard metal block and sand with 800 or just DA with 800 and go fine from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted October 16, 2009 Author Share Posted October 16, 2009 very nice work..keep it up. I am no expert in painting but just like you, i repainted my own car this spring and learnt a lot. Dont worry too much about the clear coat runs. The easiest way to remove the runs is with a NEW scrapper blade, then DA buff with 800 followed by DA 1000 (wet sand). I want ahead and DA sanded the whole car with 2000 (wet sanding) and oh my....it was so smooth. Anyway, here are some pics to keep you motivated that car came out nice. i should of went with a solid color and everything would be good by now.with te metalic even if it comes out clean, then i still have to worry about the effects of the metalic in the sunlight. you must have a hook it pad DA? because my stickit just washes off after a couple of sand because the water runs in between the pad and sand paper and peels off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kijana Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 Thanks,my local jober incouraged me to go with a solid cheap paint since this was my first paint job. The paint was nason brand so it was cheap too (good thing because i wasted a lot). Anyway, yes DA sanding is the way to go. I bought a hook backing pad from ebay and found a store that carries 2000 grid da paper. The sanding paper comes with its own pad for more cushoning. (ill dig up the store name if you want me to) -Visit autobody101.com for really good tips and help. I am sure your car with turn out great...be prepared for all the honking you will get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kijana Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 You used a razor blade to get most of the run out? I am assuming using it perpendicular to the surface? Thanks, Pete exactly...perpendicular and on the run only. I learnt that from the show trucks on spike. Use the blade from a scraper because its firm and has an edge you can hold on to. It works really good...i tried them all and this worked the fastest when combined with some DA wetsanding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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