Iceman Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 I have a 1970 240z.. Getting ready to start on my interior as part of the reZurection. I noticed this rubbery plastic stuff that is kind of a coating over the transmission tunnel. I imagine it is some sort of sound and/or heat insulator. I'd figure it wise to leave it there, but it is starting to break away under the console area. Should I just leave it as-is and re-carpet over it, or should I strip it all away and replace it with something else? Anyone discover this when doing the interior of their Z and have any advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetleaf Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 Remove it all. Clean and inspect for rust. Then replace it with a good quality Butyl sound mat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78nismoZ Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skib Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman Posted August 11, 2009 Author Share Posted August 11, 2009 3 opinions = good for me. It seems to be stuck pretty good. It's only coming off in pieces about the size of a quarter at a time. Anyone know an "easy" way, or should I just post when I figure it out myself? I was thinking of maybe shooting some penetrating oil along the edges and see if it seeps into the glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetleaf Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 dry ice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboHLS30 Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 use a heat gun and a screw driver and it should just peel off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skib Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 alot of mine was already mostly separating itself from the metal, the stuck on stuff I used a chisel and hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J__ Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 chisel and hammer sounds about right. it takes TIME. when i did mine, i found chisel and hammer was quicker and cleaner than heating it with a heat gun and scrap it off. If ur real good like me, jab the chisel in the edge of it and push it along the metal, then it'll flake off the entire row. Be careful not to chisel through the metal though if ur goin to use a hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philly_G35 Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 I used the dry ice method I read on here. I worked in small sections letting the dry ice sit for about 5 minutes. Most of it came off just tapping it with a hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78nismoZ Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 DRY ICE FTW....its amazing place it on leave it for about 5 mins then a "tap" with a hammer and huge chunks will come off...after that clean the rest of the residue off with mineral spirits or something similar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 I got lucky on the drivers side of my car. The floor would get SO HOT during the day, that my foot was starting to rub off some of the tar. One day, I decided that the sticky clump was really annoying while driving, so I tried pulling it off, and ended up pulling up ALL the tar mat on the drivers side floor (but it left a black residue all over the place) however +1 for dry ice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 Well, I am now about 1/3rd of the way through removing it. Ended up being a classic example of spotting a tool and saying "hey, i'll bet that'll work". I am using a hosehold moulding pry bar as a chisel. Turns out most of it is pretty brittle as I get towards the middle, so it is coming off pretty easily. The floorboards are a different story. I'll probably drop the dry ice on them. Thanks for the input everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickyBobby Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 I took mine off of 2 cars with a dull wood chisel. It was stiff enough to get under the tar but not too sharp that it "cut" into the metal. Took some elbow grease though. Oven cleaner or metal prep and a green 3M pad to get the last little bits off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ritrebor Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 Just did mine. I used a cheap 2" putty knife that had a blade that went all the way through the handle and a rubber mallot. The putty knife is great as it will bend and not puncture the floor metal. ritrebor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman Posted September 1, 2009 Author Share Posted September 1, 2009 Just about finished. :twothumbs" Thanks for all of the input. After grabbing a putty knife instead of the pry-bar that I was using, it started going faster. I think the pry-bar is too thick to work optimally. It's nice to see all of that bare metal, but it's even nice to see that it's almost rust free. Can't wait to roll bed-liner onto it and get some sound mat in there. I'll get a pic up later. Yet again it amazes me with the condition that it's in for being an early edition 1970. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rucus01 Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Well, I am now about 1/3rd of the way through removing it. Ended up being a classic example of spotting a tool and saying "hey, i'll bet that'll work". I am using a hosehold moulding pry bar as a chisel. Turns out most of it is pretty brittle as I get towards the middle, so it is coming off pretty easily. The floorboards are a different story. I'll probably drop the dry ice on them. Thanks for the input everyone! Takes about 2 hours with an air chissel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78nismoZ Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 pics please!!!!ill show mine if you show yours:mrgreen: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman Posted September 2, 2009 Author Share Posted September 2, 2009 Here are a couple pics. The floorpan area isnt cleaned up yet, I just threw down some rustoleum primer to protect the bare metal for now. You can see there's still a bunch of leftover spots here and there. I didnt get any dry-ice since I am just doing this a little bit at a time and a little chizel I made out of a putty knife is going pretty quick. The whole right half of the hatch area took me about 20 min. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streeteg Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 I chiseled all mine off. It was the worst...And in my opinion I love the sounds of a non sound deadened car. Let those rocks ping all over that sucker. Just undercoat the car and paint the interior. Really makes me feel like 1 with the car. -E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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