zdrift Posted August 14, 2009 Author Share Posted August 14, 2009 UPDATE-Would not having a carbon/ charchol canister have an effect on this??? Cause when i got the car that's one thing i noticed was missing. But i know that the lines that are suppose to go to it are all rerouted to the manifold so there wont be any leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 So its inside the intake manifold?? Your not talking about the pop-off valve right?? Got any pics on what it looks like??? Well if he is talking about the pop off valve [i think so?] It is that round metal thing on top of the manifold that is the farthest to the firewall, right before the metal line for the brake booster. [Not the EGR which is to the left of the brake booster line] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 Sounds to me like either his idle air control actuator is stuck or is auxiliary air regulator are stuck. Another possibility is that strange sprung valve that goes between the intake manifold and the J tube. In checking these things, you will also probably find that the rubber hoses on that "metal spider" multi-hosebarb are cracked and leaking. I just pulled mine off and ran a hose (front back) between the auxiliary air regulator and the idle air control actutator as well as a hose from the intake valve mentioned above and the J tube. Problems solved....but I have no idle control............don't really need it even with an automatic tranny. I found both allowing air to pass. Oh.....that idle screw mentioned above..........good luck with that. I remove mine and replace them with one that is longer that has a hex head so I can have enough room to loosen the jamnut....and still adjust the idle stop screw. Most likely, you won't be able to move that screw and I've gotten around that in the past by opening the throttle all the way and bending the tang that the srew rides against. Care must be taken, though and it only takes a slight bit of bend to make a huge difference. If you do adjust idle throttle opening, you should check if the idle switch on the tps is adjusted properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HENRY MACIAS Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Im very sorry about not defining or illustrating the VCV. It is located on the 4th runner on the intake manifold. The VCV is located within the AAC or idle up units. It is threaded in the 4th runner. Remove it and blow in it from both sides. If it does not hold the vacuum it is ruined. It kind of relates to a pcv valve. Best of all, blow on it from the threaded side and it must hold the vacuum. While you are doing that, press the top with a small nail to see if the grommet is ruined and or see if it is holding the vacuum you are creating. TEST THIS FIRST PRIOR TO TESTING THE AAC VALVE. I got an extra vcv you can have for FREE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Unless this is a Eurospec Turbo the car (if stock) does NOT have an idle bypass screw. IF the AAC valve has been updated to the later style with an adjustable orifice you might get some adjustment out of IT, but it's usually set to a minimum opening for stall prevention on drop-throttle, with the Magnet Valves controlled by the ECCS controlling Idle Speed through modulation of the valve open as a bypass around the throttle plate. If the idle goes up, look for false air bypassing the plate as mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 This pic describes what I did once I found that both the warmup regulator and the idle air control valve were passing tons of air at all times. The hose that goes front to back does nothing but make both iac and warmup regulator do absolutely nothing since those leaking bastards have no place from which to draw but each other.....and they are subject to the exact same intake vacuum.....so no flow occurs. Sure plugs on the warmup regulator and iac valve would do the same thing but I had none at the time for this temporary solution. The other hose does flow and it functions exactly like the stock one. The reason for that cross shaped multi-nipple metal thingy is to give a filtered air source from which the devices will draw air.....nothing more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdrift Posted August 15, 2009 Author Share Posted August 15, 2009 So i know all the hoses that go to the valve cover from the J-pipe, AAC valve, and the other valve by the 4th runner on the intake manifold are all new. ill look on the pop-off valve and check the gromet, Also can some one on here help me with possible posting a vid and some pics so you guys can see it better for yourself. I'm fixing the exhaust leak as of today, So ill see how that goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdrift Posted August 15, 2009 Author Share Posted August 15, 2009 UPDATE- So i have found out that my intake manifold is warped, but not by much. But i'm sure its enough to make the bolts loosen again over time. My question is would it be fine to put some red thread locker in and torque them down to spec's hoping that it wont come loose again???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdrift Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 UPDATE- So i finished the fixing the leak, none to be found but it still idles at 1500 once it warms up, also i know if i remove the oil cap it tryies to die, but it only drops the idle to 1000 RPM'S and then jumps back up to 1500 RPM'S. Im gonna try the trottle screw, but i think its just gonna jump back up to 1500 RPM'S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdrift Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 UPDATE- So i did adjust the throttle screw and just as i expected, the idle jumped back up to 1500 RPM'S, But a funny thing i noticed is the tube that goes from the j-pipe to the aac valve and factory by-pass valve when i squeezed the tube and cut air supply off it died, also if i added a slight amount of pressure it would lower the idle is that normal??? Also will be making a video tommorow and posting so you guys can get a better idea and see it for yourself. thanks for the help!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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