zdrift Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 (edited) Ok sorry about my last post guys and gals. I didnt use proper punctuation and i haven't seen the huge A** spell check button on top,lol. Anyways the reason im posting is cause last you heard i had blown my turbo, Well thats all sorted out. Now i have a new T3/T4 hybrid turbo in my car. It runs great, im boosting 8lbs now and the car pulls really hard:), But the thing i can't figure out is why my car is idling at 1500 RPM's? So i checked the vaccume lines and made sure all were well and hooked up. Then i checked for exhaust and intake leaks- none to be found But the wierd thing i do know is this- When i take the oil cap off the idle drops down to about 1000 RPM's, And to my understanding the car is suppose to idle at about 800 RPM's right?? So what could be doing this? Do you thing it could have to do with my PCV valve? I just want the thing to idle at the proper RPM Next thing, i want to boost more but had a few questions about it. And for you to better help me this is what i want to accomplish. Around 330 hp or more to the wheels:burnout:, And just a list of whats already done to the car. Front mount I/C Cold Air Intake MSD Blaster Coil T3/T4 hybrid turbo Full straight 3' exhaust My questions are: 1. What size injectors should i run? 2. Sould i change the TB? 3. Is HKS sequential BOV good to run on my car? 4. Should i use a aftermarket fule rail? Thanks guys and gals all your help is great! Edited August 9, 2009 by zdrift inccorect spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 What EFI are you using? Have you read the turbo sticky? It pretty much covers everything you just asked. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=84860 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdrift Posted August 10, 2009 Author Share Posted August 10, 2009 Ok so now i have a problem, all the work that i did was useless, i just found another exhaust leak. These damn sh**** felpro manifold gaskest. I used 2 of them and im only pushing 8lbs of boost and they still blew, Even torqued them down to specs. So dose anyone know of a good brand of manifold gaskets that aren't that hard to find??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokeybear Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 Ok so now i have a problem, all the work that i did was useless, i just found another exhaust leak. These damn sh**** felpro manifold gaskest. I used 2 of them and im only pushing 8lbs of boost and they still blew, Even torqued them down to specs. So dose anyone know of a good brand of manifold gaskets that aren't that hard to find??? I've heard from some of the more experienced board members that OEM nissan pretty good. Do some searching on "l28 headgasket" and I am sure a plethora of information on headgaskets will come up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdrift Posted August 12, 2009 Author Share Posted August 12, 2009 Ya i found some on ebay, But they seem to get pricey now. Also were would you find the nissan OEM gasket at??? Would i have to order it directly through nissan??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trippintl0 Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 Make sure your exhaust manifold is not warped. Mine was, and I got the exhaust and intake resurfaced together (since they use the same gasket), combined with a Nissan OEM manifold gasket plus a Pallnet stud kit for a proper seal. Although in my case dealer had to re-order the gasket like 3 times before we got the correct one...(kept getting the non-turbo one) with a one week shipping time on each order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 I've heard from some of the more experienced board members that OEM nissan pretty good. Do some searching on "l28 headgasket" and I am sure a plethora of information on headgaskets will come up. He's not talking about Head Gaskets Smokey. Ya I found some on ebay, But they seem to get pricey now. Also were would you find the nissan OEM gasket at??? Would I have to order it directly through nissan??? Try 'the z store' dot com for a different mani gasket. There are mixed reviews of the felpro manifold gaskets here, but I swear by them. I have used many and they have worked fine for me. Check this out v v v Make sure your exhaust manifold is not warped. Mine was, and I got the exhaust and intake resurfaced together (since they use the same gasket), combined with a Nissan OEM manifold gasket plus a Pallnet stud kit for a proper seal. Although in my case dealer had to re-order the gasket like 3 times before we got the correct one...(kept getting the non-turbo one) with a one week shipping time on each order. Is your head pitted or is there anything visible that could contribute to the leaks? Also a Pallnet kit is not necessary, [especially if you're in a time crunch ] I made my own from a single bar I ordered at Fastenal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rolling Parts Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 There is an idle adjustment screw on the throttle body. Have you tried adjusting it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdrift Posted August 13, 2009 Author Share Posted August 13, 2009 There is an idle adjustment screw on the throttle body. Have you tried adjusting it? No i haven't tried to. I was goning to do that, but one of my buddies said it might be a different issuse, So he told me not to mess with it yet. UPDATE- to let you guys get a better understanding of the situation, Here is what i noticed. When i first start the car (after sitting for a while allowing the car to cool off, or first starting it up in the morning) the car idle's at around 800 RPM's, but once it warms up that's when it jumps the idle up to 1500 RPM's. Maybe some one has had this kind of experience with there's??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdrift Posted August 13, 2009 Author Share Posted August 13, 2009 He's not talking about Head Gaskets Smokey. Try 'the z store' dot com for a different mani gasket. There are mixed reviews of the felpro manifold gaskets here, but I swear by them. I have used many and they have worked fine for me. Check this out v v v Is your head pitted or is there anything visible that could contribute to the leaks? Also a Pallnet kit is not necessary, [especially if you're in a time crunch ] I made my own from a single bar I ordered at Fastenal. Hey FlatBlack 280z, whats this Pallnet kit all about???. Is it like a APR head stud kit?, but for you intake and exhaust manifold???? Also there are no signs of warpage, Me and my friend rebiult the motor and got the Head, Manifold (both intake and exhaust) all resurfaced, But i know when i got the leak the exhaust manifold bolt (last one closest to the fire wall that's a nut on a stud came loose), And thats what caused the gasket to crack and cause a leak. That's all i know as of now Thanks for all the HELP guys:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 UPDATE- to let you guys get a better understanding of the situation, Here is what i noticed. When i first start the car (after sitting for a while allowing the car to cool off, or first starting it up in the morning) the car idle's at around 800 RPM's, but once it warms up that's when it jumps the idle up to 1500 RPM's. Listen to your Z friends Sounds like your Idle screw is set too high or you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Hey FlatBlack 280z, whats this Pallnet kit all about???. Is it like a APR head stud kit?, but for you intake and exhaust manifold???? Not exactly. http://www.freewebs.com/pallnet/products.htm http://www.freewebs.com/pallnet/stud%20kit.jpg Studs are way better than bolts. I just went to Fastenal, got the pitch and diameter of the head threads and bought a length of rod that had that pitch cut into it. I then cut 11 pieces of equal length, then just bought nuts to put on the ends. Use this at your own risk though. That's just what I did because it was more convenient that way. Also there are no signs of warpage, Me and my friend rebiult the motor and got the Head, Manifold (both intake and exhaust) all resurfaced, But i know when i got the leak the exhaust manifold bolt (last one closest to the fire wall that's a nut on a stud came loose), And thats what caused the gasket to crack and cause a leak. That's all i know as of now So you're blaming Felpro for that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdrift Posted August 13, 2009 Author Share Posted August 13, 2009 Listen to your Z friends Sounds like your Idle screw is set too high or you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Not exactly. http://www.freewebs.com/pallnet/products.htm http://www.freewebs.com/pallnet/stud%20kit.jpg Studs are way better than bolts. I just went to Fastenal, got the pitch and diameter of the head threads and bought a length of rod that had that pitch cut into it. I then cut 11 pieces of equal length, then just bought nuts to put on the ends. Use this at your own risk though. That's just what I did because it was more convenient that way. So you're blaming Felpro for that? No im taking the blame on that one, But im blaming them for not having the silver gaskets and switching to some crappy brown cardboard,lol Also there are no vaccume leaks that i know of I've checked all the leaks (none to be found), just a bad exhaust leak, This wouldn't cause it would it??? Just need to know before i play with the idle screw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 No im taking the blame on that one, But im blaming them for not having the silver gaskets and switching to some crappy brown cardboard,lol Also there are no vaccume leaks that i know of I've checked all the leaks (none to be found), just a bad exhaust leak, This wouldn't cause it would it??? Just need to know before i play with the idle screw. Well playing with the idle screw will narrow it down and it is really easy to adjust [And return to the stock location]. If one of the exhaust bolts was loose and it was a bolt that also held the intake manifold on then that could be the issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HENRY MACIAS Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 I encountered this same problem, if youre utilizing the stock zxt intake manifold, check your blow of valve. It is located in intake manifold runners. It is threaded in the manifold. There is some rubber gromet that creates a vacuum when it tears. It is probably torn and bypassing vacuum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jamesdevery Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 just turn the screw already.... it wont bite you man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdrift Posted August 14, 2009 Author Share Posted August 14, 2009 Ok ill try the idle screw today and see what happens. Also the bolt that was loose was not holding the intake manifold. It was one of the bolts on the end of the exhaust manifold that just holds it. let's see how this goes. Also got kragen to warranty my gaskets, so im going to fix the leak this saturday with no cost to me, YA!!! More gas money, currently $3.09-it blows, but TURBO dosent,lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdrift Posted August 14, 2009 Author Share Posted August 14, 2009 I encountered this same problem, if youre utilizing the stock zxt intakemanifold, check your blow of valve. It is located in intake manifold runners. It is threaded in the manifold. There is some rubber gromet that creates a vacuum when it tears. It is probably torn and bypassing vacuum. So its inside the intake manifold?? Your not talking about the pop-off valve right?? Got any pics on what it looks like??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 Make a mark with a permanent marker for a starting point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdrift Posted August 14, 2009 Author Share Posted August 14, 2009 Also does anyone kno if the HSK sequential BOV is bad to run??? I've heard it is cause at idle it sucks in air. Also was told to get a greddy BOV so i can reciruclate it. Cause the HKS BOV cant recirculate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdrift Posted August 14, 2009 Author Share Posted August 14, 2009 Make a mark with a permanent marker for a starting point. On the screw right??? So i can put it back just incase? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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