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New head, Head gasket, still burning radiator fluid


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Well, I'm stumped. We just replaced the head gasket, head, and everything else that connects to the head, and this engine is billowing steam out the tailpipe.

 

Could the water jacket be busted in the head? The head had been restored to a clean, polished finish, with all reconditioned equipment. The only explanation I could come up with was that the water jacket was cracked somewhere.

 

Anybody have any other idea's what's going on here?

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No, I didn't do a pressure check personally, but they guy we bought it from said he did. I guess you can't trust anyone. Anyway it's good to know that this is a common problem...now I can stop feeling like the world is ending :).

 

Thanks guys. I'm getting an E31 with a stage 3 cam, heavy machine work and N42 valves tomorrow. That's going to be fun.

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Did you run it LONG ENOUGH to clear out the exhaust system from the previous failure?????

This could possibly take quite a while. I've been in this situation before.

 

Same thing happened to me as well. Jasper's right. Let the engine run for at least 30 min.

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how much water could accumulate in the system that it would take 30 min to clear out? Im not disagreeing, just a little surprised that it would take that long to clear out.

 

There was steam billowing out of the exhaust, when we revved it, when it idled....you're saying that this could be just from accumulation alone? Ill give it a shot, but that seems like it would have to be a liter or so of fluid stuck in the exhaust for that much steam to be coming out of the tailpipe.

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Got the E31 on today. Runs like a champ with the Stage 3 MSA cam in it. No more steam either.

 

Side question for you guys: There was some extensive machine work on the head, which included a new 3-angle grind, and 280z valves. So, how do we know when the valves are properly seated? 50 miles or so?

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Well, Im not getting any backfiring or popping, so that's good news :).... But that term you used...Lapping...Im not sure im familiar with that one. Sorry for the ignorance, I've just been on a car-rebuild-crash-course for the past couple of days.

 

The guy that we bought the head from said that we had to keep it under 3000 rpms for the first 50 miles or so, bcause "the valves weren't properly seated yet"...Is that correct?

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The parts that require break-in to seat themselves are the piston rings to the cylinder walls and the cam lobes to the lifters/rockers. All the other parts should be good to go from the initial start up! :2thumbs:

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Lapping refers to "hand seating" the valves if you will. A lapping compound (basically grease with some grit mixed in) is applied to either the seat or the valve, then the valve is inserted and spun against the face. In doing so, the lapping compound makes a small 'cut' if you will on both the valve face and seat ensuring that both have 360 degrees of contact and the best possible sealing.

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thanks for the info Bob :).

 

BRAAP, the piston rings are far from new, so those don't need the break in, but a reground cam and reconditioned rocker arms would. So how long before they are broken in?

 

zedsn, the vapor problem went away.

 

Thanks for the quick response guys.

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