piston Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Rayyapp, you are correct, like I say, angle is angle, sideways or what ever position as long as you have that slight 3 degree. Your method you explained up there was exactly how I did mine. You just explained it shorter and made more sense. lol My output shaft is mounted 2 inches higher than the diff flange with both parallel to the frame rails/ground. On the tail shaft point offset could be correct also because I seriously notice my diff is pointed towards the right pass side a bit. Looks like Nissan might have used the left and right angle method to achieve their degree needed. My old Datsun service manual also shows the bottom pic of a 73 and the diff is offset towards passenger in the pic printed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted April 16, 2011 Share Posted April 16, 2011 best article i have found.... U-Joint angles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 (edited) well i got the angles on the flanges right (equal degrees) but i have to move the diff down. i am going to have to redrill the t3 mustache bar i think, if it will work at all with the mckinney mounts. i have shimmed the bar down to the max(out of threads on the mustache mounting bolts), what a pain in the ass this has been. Edited April 23, 2011 by ZT-R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 I used McKinney with the poly mounts. I also used an inclinometer and lots of string, etc. I stayed under 3 degrees with the inclinometer to measure diff flange and front end of the crank pulley, etc. Lateral is pretty easy with string. The McKinney mounts are nice because it is easy to use shims with those mounts to tweak side-to-side angle and elevation compared to the diff mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 how many shims did you use? i have probably 3/8" or so on the drivers side. i currently am using 4.0 degrees down on the trans, 4.0 up on the diff, but still vibates like hell. (on the lift, no cv shafts, no wheels) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 oh the 77 mckinney mounts are different than the 240z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 guys.. i have the trans angled down 2.8 degrees and the flange on the r230 is up 2.6 degrees (technically i guess thats angled down, its higher in the front than the rear) and the driveshaft angle (angle finder on the shaft itself) is .2 up (higher at the rear). that should be like a 3.0 and a 2.8 operating anlge, but i still have a good vibration (no axles, tires or anything installed)... what am i doing wrong. I talked to T3 and they said they also a lower mount for the r230. currently i have mine shimmed down as much as i can (with full thread engagement on the mustache bar mounting bolts). suposidly the driveshaft is balanced, i do see 2 weights on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrcbonk Posted July 30, 2015 Share Posted July 30, 2015 All- I was reading this thread and wanted to see how you (ZT-R) ended up with your angles. I know you have your car on the road now. What did you end up doing with your pinion angle setup? I had my RBS30 on the road for a while and developed a pronounced vibration above 50 mph. I am getting ready to redo my rear diff and engine/trans angles. Plan is to level the frame rails with a bubble level, adjust the rear diff angle to 90 degrees from earth using a spacer in between my R/T mount and the energy suspension gm trans bushing, do the same with the tail of the trans (will have to modify/remake my transmount), reinstall the driveshaft and hope the difference in ujoint heights gives me 1.5 to 3 degrees. I will also have to check the parallelism of the diff/trans. The guys at the driveline shop said the old school way is to mount to identical length rulers on the trans output and diff face, center them, level side to side, and then measure the lengths (drives side and passengers side) between the rulers. If the distances are equal you are parallel. I really hope this all comes together. Want to drive my car again without feeling like it is going to explode from underneath me. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 Just a lot of patience and lots of little adjustments. I think I ended up at 3 degrees dead on both. Ive moved up a good bit in the power department so I will soon be on a CV driveshaft so I willnt have much to worry about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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