zrookie Posted September 26, 2009 Share Posted September 26, 2009 Hi everyone, I'm in the process of doing my throttle cable bracket, but I would lik to see some of your ideas first. maybe this can serve as a stiky for the future. thank you Pics are very welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadianz Posted September 26, 2009 Share Posted September 26, 2009 Mines a bit different, but I just welded a couple of pieces of scrap steel together, and made a slot for the cable to fit into. Its pretty simple. The easiest is to drill all the holes first and then slot the final hole which will hold the cable... That way it slips in and is more secure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zrookie Posted September 27, 2009 Author Share Posted September 27, 2009 Mines a bit different, but I just welded a couple of pieces of scrap steel together, and made a slot for the cable to fit into. Its pretty simple. The easiest is to drill all the holes first and then slot the final hole which will hold the cable... That way it slips in and is more secure. yours is super different, I'll post pics of mine, I just did all my measurements, I have to take the pieces to a welding shop... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast-datsun Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 We offer a throttle cable kit that work with the stock bellcrank and is 36" long so it will work with any motor... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T S30 H Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 check this one out. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=147601 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synthtk Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 I used a Lokar cable kit for my throttle cable. I had bought the normal Lokar carb kit cable which had the wrong end on it, so I had to machine a lock nub, but if you buy the Lokar LS1 cable it will have the nub already on the cable. The cable goes through the firewall and attaches to the pedal directly, I used two large washers on each side of the firewall so the locking nuts wouldnt pass through through. This setup (direct to pedal) seems more responsive than my old setup which used the stock linkage and then had a cable running to the throttle. [more pics] Here is a link to the Lokar 48" LS1 throttle cable on Summit, currently $62. They also offer the cable in a few other styles and lengths for different prices. The attachment to the pedal was really simple, I just drilled a hole in the top of the pedal rod where it gets flat and then slipped the Lokar cable end around that and popped in the pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T S30 H Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 I used a Lokar cable kit for my throttle cable. I had bought the normal Lokar carb kit cable which had the wrong end on it, so I had to machine a lock nub, but if you buy the Lokar LS1 cable it will have the nub already on the cable. The cable goes through the firewall and attaches to the pedal directly, I used two large washers on each side of the firewall so the locking nuts wouldnt pass through through. This setup (direct to pedal) seems more responsive than my old setup which used the stock linkage and then had a cable running to the throttle. [more pics] Here is a link to the Lokar 48" LS1 throttle cable on Summit, currently $62. They also offer the cable in a few other styles and lengths for different prices. The attachment to the pedal was really simple, I just drilled a hole in the top of the pedal rod where it gets flat and then slipped the Lokar cable end around that and popped in the pin. Very nice install. I will be picking up this throttle cable. Did you have to shorten it any? If so, does the end contain a set screw to secure it after it is cut? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zrookie Posted October 11, 2009 Author Share Posted October 11, 2009 I'm more concern on the throttle section. I'm using the 240sx, with a q45 throttle body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 I'm more concern on the throttle section. I'm using the 240sx, with a q45 throttle body. Me too. I'd like to find something that works on the Q45 tb, to make the stroke shorter. I've seen those red anodized round throttle cable thingies you swap onto the throttle shaft, but I'm not sure they fit the q45 tb properly. Anyone here using the q45 tb, swapped the throttle cam out with a better piece?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synthtk Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 Very nice install. I will be picking up this throttle cable. Did you have to shorten it any? If so, does the end contain a set screw to secure it after it is cut? Yup, the LS1 cable has a set screw and I did end up shortening my cable a bit, but I do not recall exactly how much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnickel Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 My setup for those curious: Junkyard Sentra (1995-1999) cable. I heard DOHC 240sx are also good, but I wanted to make sure I had enough length and this one surely did. Bracket at throttle body fairly simple (just some 1/8" bent correctly and notched to accept cable): This shows the length of the cable. It actually loops around first for less strain. If the cable was shorter, it would either have to cross the valve cover, or there would be a fairly aggressive turn right off the firewall. Having the cable this long was actually ideal in my opinion. I will zip-tie and/or create a cable-hold for it latter to secure it under the intake manifold. The nissan had 2 studs inside the passenger area that held the backside bracket. Here's the bracket on the opposite end: Though hard to see, there is actually 2 holes in the lowest portion of that metal bracket. Also, there is a rubber seal as well on that entire face. That bracket got trimmed down to fit in the stock location. That included cutting of those long bits and cutting fairly close around the trapezoidal (diamond) shaped bit. Then it was a matter of securing studs in the firewall. I couldn't weld as my bay was painted, and I didn't want a through bolt, so i opted to first tap the drilled hole, and then used some JB weld to secure (so I wont' need 2 people to install/remove). The first hole I drilled was slightly off center and as such the rubber seal was very close to not overlapping, so being OCD I redrilled the hole. The extra glob of epoxy certainly isn't attractive, but I prefer function over cosmetics. A little touchup will help. Next was securing the cable to the pedal. If you look at the picture 2 up, all that was required was a 10mm hole with a slit to allow the cable. This allowed that white clip looking thing to clip into it. 1) cut piece of 1/8" metal to receive the cable 2) grind pedal shaft to accept weld 3) attach metal bracket to cable 4) pull all slack out of cable. This required angling the bracket back maybe 20-30 degrees from normal. as such the cable connection point was about 3" further back than stock. This is due to the free play in the cable compared to the sentra mounting points. I've seen others simply cut off the cable at the right length and weld a blob on the end, but repositioning the end was simple enough. 5) Once happy with the angles of the cable as well as the slack, I tacked the bracket to the pedal. Here it is once removed: Finally, reinforce the bracket with an extra piece, and cut off the stock tail so it looks better. paint it black, install and enjoy. Feel is great. Note to make sure you leave the throttle body end of the adjustment in the middle so you can adjust it so that it is just just fully open when your pedal hits the pedal stop. Also, if you're wondering if there are any variances in the length of the pedal throw vs what the RB25 throttle body requires, there isn't any. The bracket on the pedal mounted roughly exactly where the stock end attached to vertically (giving same length of throw). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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