BLKMGK Posted September 11, 2000 Share Posted September 11, 2000 Okay, with the car back home with a cage I get to now ponder seat beltsharnesses. I've got th estock belts in it now and will keep these unless I need the mounting points but I'd rather be using 5 point harnesses. Looking at the catalogs there's a bewildering array of brands, types, and latches. I've used the belts that have a cam lock up front and liked them fine. I know I want a submarine belts aka crotch strap. H or Y mounts? I don't have a seat belt tab welded to the strut tower brace right now. I've seen belts that appear to be looped aroundmounted to the rollcage. How does that work? Chassis shop seemed to like Y'ed belts better and said they wouldn't spread apart on me, yes? My parts car had belts in it and tabs, I really think I'd prefer to mount to the cage instead.Those belts were WAY out of date BTW and made by a company I'd never heard of. Should I maybe look ina catalog geared more towards SCCA type racing rather than Jegs? Ideas and tips appreciated, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted September 13, 2000 Share Posted September 13, 2000 Y type shoulders are illegal for Scca and kind of useless IMO. go for the H style and wrap around roll bar behind seat. the shorter the belt the better as they stretch in an accident. cam lock is nice but that is personal pref as they do cost 3x as much as a regular 5 point setup. teh going discounted rate for a 5pt set is $59 for black /red or blue or $69 for bright colors ------------------ Mike http://www.fonebooth.com raceparts and brakeupgrades Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted September 14, 2000 Author Share Posted September 14, 2000 10-4 on the Y harness and on the strut tower. These puppies will be mounted to the bar! Thank you from preventing me from screwing up - I really appreciate it. Now then Mike - who makes the $59 setup and is it camlock I think I owuld liek to go with camlock - cost be damned - and I'll be looking for black, possibly red. Bright colors get dirty and fade and I'm even tempted to skip the red due to dirt issues. However my seats have red tweed in them so perhaps that's a neat way to match up things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 14, 2000 Share Posted September 14, 2000 http://www.sportscar-parts.com/ Has lots of harnesses, seats, and stuff like that. Decent prices. Don't skimp on harnesses and helmets and cages and all that good stuff, my life is worth a few extra bucks on the important saftey stuff! ------------------ Morgan morgan@z31.com http://carfiche.com http://z31.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 14, 2000 Share Posted September 14, 2000 I'd stick with name brands, trw, schroth, etc. Get an FIA homologated harness, then you have no doubts about its quality. Mounting to a strut tower would be bad, a strut tower can bend in a wreck, drastically loosening or tightening the belts, breaking shoulders or letting you hit the steering wheel/dash/cage/roof/whatever. ------------------ Morgan morgan@z31.com http://carfiche.com http://z31.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted September 15, 2000 Share Posted September 15, 2000 I ended up going with a Simpson 5-point camlock harness, about $160 at Summit. It's a bulky setup, with the shoulder straps and waist straps 3" thick. Putting it on takes much, much longer than putting on a regular seat belt. But, with the camlock, it comes off very quickly - and this is certainly the most important consideration in a race-type situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted September 16, 2000 Author Share Posted September 16, 2000 Morgan - most of their belts don't have the submarine strap - this is something I want. I know stock belts don't ever have anything like that but I figure safer is better Found some other neat toys on that site though and one of their sets DOES have a submarine option so thank you very much for pointing it out! Michael - I hear ya'. Those are the sorts I've been looking at up till now. The wider strap will distribute the load better in an accident so while it's a pain it's not really a bad thing. Camlock is what I'm after too - it's a nice but expensive feature to have. Mike - where you finding belts at these days? As I recall you race seriously so you're boound to have come up with some good solutions for the Z. I'm all ears when you've got a chance to post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted May 31, 2002 Share Posted May 31, 2002 Alright, well, I seem to have prematurely forced this issue upon myself. Welding up the new floor rail I seem to have caught my existing seatbelt on fire . So, here's my quandary. Whenever (if-ever?) I get this car done, I plan to drive it alot. I also plan to try and track it as often as I can afford the track fees. So, does anyone have any insight into racing harnesses that are fairly easy to get in and out of? I really don't want to have 2 different seatbelts - daily use/track use. Do I need to look for specific "stamp of approval" on the belts - like FIA, or SCCA or something? A friend of mine used to have a Datsun roadster which had the 5 point belts. Those were a major pain in the ass. Had to like, grab all the belts up and then sort of assemble them together at the latch each time. Ugh. This project is a death spiral. Now that I have to do harnesses now, that means I have to do the rollbar now so I can have something to attach them to. . . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshB 240Z Posted May 31, 2002 Share Posted May 31, 2002 What is the best method for mounting the anti-submarine belt in a 240Z? I have seen several different methods, from an eye bolt through the floor board with a large washer on the other side to a bar welded between the trasmission tunnel and rocker panel framework. Thanks, Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted May 31, 2002 Share Posted May 31, 2002 This is what you want: Schroth Profi III Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted May 31, 2002 Share Posted May 31, 2002 An eye bolt with a big washer works fine. Make sure its bolted through the end of the frame rail extension under the floor pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted May 31, 2002 Share Posted May 31, 2002 KeeRyced man. $250 each? Damn. Thass 5 hunnert for the both seats. How about Simpson (http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1874&prmenbr=361)? Or this one http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=3064',650,505,'SIM29061BK ? Or this Camlock one http://www.simpsonracing.com/Shop/ShowProduct.asp?category=33&product=83 which is still high, but not as high. I presume I want bolt in vs. clip in, yes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gprix1 Posted May 31, 2002 Share Posted May 31, 2002 While we're on the subject, can someone tell me the pro/con of pull-up vrs pull-down style. I would think that pulling down to adjust a belt would give you more leverage but there must be a good reason for the pull-up type too or I would think they wouldn't bother making both types. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gprix1 Posted May 31, 2002 Share Posted May 31, 2002 I found some more info on the Schroth Profi III belts and where you can get it a little bit cheaper. http://www.soloracer.com/harnschrothfaq.html http://www.soloracer.com/schrothprofi3.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted May 31, 2002 Share Posted May 31, 2002 Regarding Pull-up vs Pull-down, it's a space/leverage issue. Pull-ups are usually used in tight cockpit (indy car) situations where somebody is strapping the driver into the car, ala from overhead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted May 31, 2002 Share Posted May 31, 2002 My experience with 5 point belts on the street is they are a p.i.t.a. The problems are... 1. You need racing type seats with all five holes for the belts to go through. 2. If you don't have all racing type seats the steps for putting on the belts are as follows: a. Open car door, pick up left side belt off of ground. b. While holding left side belt, reach behind seat for left shoulder belt, loosen it, and put it on. c. Find sub belt under seat, put it on. d. Repeat right shoulder belt behind seat, loosen, put on. e. Find right lap belt, loosen and put on. f. Latch belts, tighten both sides of lap and both shoulder belts. g. CRAP!! Keys are in my pocket! Tips: If you plan on going through a drive through food place remove your money from your pockets BEFORE you get in the car. If you get in the car and people (esp. hot girls) are standing nearby, first drive to a secluded place and then put your seatbelts on. Keep antipersirant in the car as you probably will break a sweat putting the belts on if the temperature is over 75 degrees. 3" belts make a hot day even hotter and they do chafe, so keep a box of tampons in the car for shoulder padding. If anyone knows of any other tips please let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted June 1, 2002 Share Posted June 1, 2002 Jeromio, The number 2 seatback in the diagram is a no-no also. Clip ins (where you bolt an eyebolt to the floor) are better from a strength and maintenance standpoint. Regarding price, Schroth is more expensive because of the little thingy on the right shoulder harness. It keeps you from submarining in a 4 point harness and I think they have a patent on it. You right shoulder will move forward a bit more than your left in an impact thus keeping you from flying under the lap belt and jamming your knees into your hips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted June 1, 2002 Share Posted June 1, 2002 Keep in mind that if you order Simpson belts, they are all made to order. They don't have stock laying on shelves because they have a two year life cycle. So if you're in a big rush..... Also, even as good as Simpson is, they are not DOT legal, probably more to do with Simpson not bothering with getting them certified by DOT, but rather with the racing sanctioning bodies. BTW...I have two sets of 5 point Simpson harneses...driver and pass. sides, and the quality is A1. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted June 1, 2002 Share Posted June 1, 2002 speaking of belts... i became a M&R dealer last month and have 5 point belts in stock current date SCCA legal all that jazz.. best price on camlock is $120 ANY COLOR..just ordered this for my race car for regular latch/lock type $60 have black in stock, also have the regular 3" laps for the passenger side if you dont want the wife to use a 5 pt setup. the lap belts alone are $40 pr. this pricing is all snap in ends. wrap around are slightly cheaper like $2 a set. just never got around to posting this up yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted June 1, 2002 Share Posted June 1, 2002 Crap - that Schroth website FAQ was, unfortunately, very enlightening: My Talon seats (which I really like) have integrated headrests. SO! To recap: I'm swapping in an engine. Needed to get fuel/brake lines out of tunnel. This escalates into tearing out/fabbing up the frame rail. This causes bone-head me to burn my belt. Now I need new belts and that leads to the rollbar to mount them to. And NOW I have to get new seats!!!! Crap. I've heard of Schroth and Simpson - who's M&R? If you have any further info on them belts, please email me. I like that price much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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