FlatBlack Posted October 8, 2009 Author Share Posted October 8, 2009 Uh oh... I tried to disable the PWM as flexicoker suggested on the way to school this morning by doing this from the MegaManual: "If you use resistors that limit injector current to less than 2 amps, you can disable the PWM mode (by setting PWM% to 100%, and time threshold to 25.4msec) and treat the system as high-impedance." I got in my car, started it, went inside as it warmed up, got my laptop, plugged it in, uploaded the new settings, got situated and started out for class. I drove out of the neighborhood, it was about one block to the main road. I got onto the main road, and then started giving it throttle and it died. I turned MS off, then back on, dumped the clutch and nothing. Pulled over and pulled the dizzy cap wire off, tried to crank it and I have plenty spark. Next I uploaded the map that I had before I made the PWM changes and still nothing. I walked home with the board and opened it up and nothing looked burned up,but it's hard to really see on the surface mount board. [Don't say it Chris ] Also when I put it back of Flatty and tried to start it, D14 was blinking. Anyways, I hopped in my Z31 and went to school, here is the datalog at the time it happened: When it happened: When I tried to start it by dumping the clutch: When I tried to start it after the old map was back in there: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 sorry, I only skimmed through most of this post, but I was having similar problems. Magnecore wires didn't cure it, redoing all the grounds didn't help... Problem 1 I turned PWM off and drove around for a bit and it seemed like it helped with the voltage spikes, so I installed dropping resistors... problem completely solved. Unfortunately i don't remember what resistors I used at the moment, but that is my first recommendation before you spend $100 on plug wires. You can turn off PWM and drive around for a bit, as long as you keep the duty cycle low, and should not have a problem with overheating the injectors. Problem 2 My LC-1 was throwing a bunch of different error codes, most of them about the sensor overheating. A bunch of people on the LC-1 forum were having this problem as well. I reflashed the firmware to the older version, and it fixed the problem (mine shipped with the new firmware. Supposedly if the sensor gets to hot, you start getting erroneous readings. The new firmware has a tighter temperature range and throws a code if it exceeds this. The older firmware is more tolerant to overheating, and thus will give slightly erroneous readings if that happens, but it will no longer stop working and throw a code if it happens briefly. That part should have been bolded from the beginning. DC is like a multiplier for the current, for example, say you have 10 amps(if it was steady state or at 100% DC) at 30% DC, this is effectively only 3 amps, same as 10 amps at 50% DC is 5 amps. The megamanual suggests 2 amps max to not use PWM(although 4 15ohm injectors is 3.75A@12v), 3 4ohm injectors will draw 9A@12v an 10.5A@14v. At the DC you were at, that's about 7A through the drivers, not a good thing. If you have a stim, see if the injector lights blink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted October 8, 2009 Author Share Posted October 8, 2009 Yeah I figured I blew my drivers. I should've researched it before I did it. Lesson learned. Next step is figuring out how I replace components on the 3.57 SMC board. I'll shoot DIY an email today. I'd hate to have to send it back [for not having the car on the road again] but I don't want to screw up the board. Anyone here work on a V3.57 board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexicoker Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 Man, I'm really really sorry if it was my suggestion that blew something up. I did exactly what I suggested on my car (MSII V3, stock L28E injectors) with no problems (just putted around the block), but maybe the surface mount stuff is not as robust or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted October 9, 2009 Author Share Posted October 9, 2009 Man, I'm really really sorry if it was my suggestion that blew something up. I did exactly what I suggested on my car (MSII V3, stock L28E injectors) with no problems (just putted around the block), but maybe the surface mount stuff is not as robust or something? Haha don't feel bad, I was hoping my reply about your suggestion was neutral. I should have read up more about it. My problem was happening above 3400 RPM so it would have happened sooner or later. It was driving fine until I gave it gas, then death. Rookie mistake, shows my ignorance really. I just hope the board can be fixed easily with little down time. Project cars were made to break. Just gets a little expensive sometimes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexicoker Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 ya, I'm glad you're not too upset. When I was having the same problems it was extremely frustrating and difficult to figure out. The voltage spikes I was getting from the PWM was enough that it finally blew the voltage regulator circuit and ignition driver on my board (on Christmas day, before I did what I suggested you do =) ) I don't think that is the same failure you just had though, as my board was completely dead. I hope its a simple fix! -Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted October 9, 2009 Author Share Posted October 9, 2009 Ordered these: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/irfiz34gnd-fets-pack-v22-and-v30-and-p-197.html They're less than $3. Hopefully the FETs are the problem, and if it is, that's a cheap and easy fix. After I replace that, I'll see if it'll run on the old tune again, then I will install the DRs, then try and turn the PWM off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted October 14, 2009 Author Share Posted October 14, 2009 Battery voltage is still nasty, I pulled a condenser off of my L28ET alternator and put it on my S130 Alternator, didn't really change anything. I'm going to put the dropping resistors on probably tomorrow and start playing around with the PWM settings again. Let it snow, did you put those dropping resistors after the relay board or before? I was going to put them inline on the injector bank wires and mount them to the relay board housing. My wideband is doing weird stuff, it'll jump from stuck on 13 down to stuck on 8, and alternate between the two. You can see it jump from 8 to 13 in that screen shot. I still haven't got to play with the wideband software yet, but Chris got me a copy of logworks last night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 It doesn't matter where in the circuit you put them, just as long as you put 1 per channel. They can be on the +12v side if that's easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted October 18, 2009 Author Share Posted October 18, 2009 Okay I put them inline on the (-) side of the injector banks. I can't decide which one is worse for driving around haha. I think the Dropping resistor setup with the PWM disabled is worse. I got a interstate run in and I can get up to about 100 no problem, but as soon as I let off MS would reset and I'd get lots of backfires. Also, it would reset randomly while driving, and I think I heard pinging. O_O I'm not down with pinging. I'm ordering some Magnecor wires tomorrow, I'll see where that gets me. I wonder if I could play with the settings to make this work better though? I have Injector Opening Time: 1.0 ms Battery Voltage Correction: 0.20 ms/V PWM Current Limit: 100% PWM Time Threshold: 25.4 On the other hand, the batt Vs are much much better. I'm working on getting the datalog screen shots up *edit* Here they are Random Resets? Finally got it up to 'highway speeds' without it resetting. ?????????????? Makes me sick to my stomache when it does that ^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 Like I said before... I couldn't get rid of my resets until BRAAP wised me up and I got some Magnecor wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted October 18, 2009 Author Share Posted October 18, 2009 Like I said before... I couldn't get rid of my resets until BRAAP wised me up and I got some Magnecor wires. Fair enough. Like I said I'm ordering them tomorrow So. Still a bit unclear on this. I thought these were the ones to get: [KV85Rs] http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/kv85r100.htm But my buddy Forrest said he's been running these: http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/cn25.htm I believe the CN25s are cheaper [Forrest said he paid $62?], but I don't want to save pennies if they don't do the trick. What wires did you get, TRWebb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 What are you doing in the last picture? Are you actually hitting the throttle and it's resetting, or is it resetting and making the TP and MAP graphs do funny things. The battV is MUCH cleaner, the fact that you're getting more resets is odd to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted October 19, 2009 Author Share Posted October 19, 2009 What are you doing in the last picture? Are you actually hitting the throttle and it's resetting, or is it resetting and making the TP and MAP graphs do funny things. The battV is MUCH cleaner, the fact that you're getting more resets is odd to me. Can't really tell. Sometimes it's under tip-in, sometimes it's just random. I drove it around earlier this evening and it wasn't reseting as much, and it kind of fixed the high-MPH pulls, I'll see if the magnecor wires fixes it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 No, I meant, what were you doing during that last picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 These are the wires I got - KV85 10mm wires: https://www.directtuning.com/store/pc-46825-97-magnecor-10mm-wire-set-280zx-79-83240z260z280z-70-78.aspx I'm not sure if this is where I got them from - but I'm pretty sure it is... Do some shopping for the cheapest price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted October 21, 2009 Author Share Posted October 21, 2009 Forrest was using these with his MegaSquirted cars, they are 8mm with "Magnecor Metallic Inductance SS25 RFI and EMI suppressed." Here are the links: http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/7mm8mm.htm http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/files/electrosports-80.pdf [same thing but a PDF] He says they are fine and Forrest knows what he's talking about, also he said he paid $62 for a set. Any input on this?? I won't mind throwing down the extra $50 [And I'd prefer not to have to buy twice], but these seem like they would be okay... and $62 is much better then $112. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 Look at your first reply I dont think you answered the question I was asking. Could you mention how you have your Pip/saw wired with shielding? I used alarm wire very cheap and available at lots of electronics stores. They come in 1-4 wires different gauge sizes, already bundled/shielded with a rubber cover much easier running all this foil and shielding through. Are you using a resisted plug as well? Those magnecors are good for megasquirt I noticed a difference in resets. hopefully that will do the trick for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 Pip/saw is for EDIS.... he's not running EDIS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted October 22, 2009 Author Share Posted October 22, 2009 Look at your first reply I dont think you answered the question I was asking. Could you mention how you have your Pip/saw wired with shielding? I used alarm wire very cheap and available at lots of electronics stores. They come in 1-4 wires different gauge sizes, already bundled/shielded with a rubber cover much easier running all this foil and shielding through. Are you using a resisted plug as well? Those magnecors are good for megasquirt I noticed a difference in resets. hopefully that will do the trick for you. From OP I'm running a MSI V3.57 PCB using a 83 ZXT Dizzy for spark on a turbo F54/P79 L28E, Intercooled, L28ET 260cc injectors. I'm running NGK BPR7ES Well, I took the interstate to school yesterday [i usually take surface streets] and beat the crap out of my car with no resets. I did a couple 20-"over interstate speed" pulls and no resets. My fuel maps definitely need work but this was top priority. I guess the Dropping Resistors did the trick!! Thanks again guys, What would I do without Hybrid? [i'll be ordering some magnecors anyways.] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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