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Engine and tranny in and it looks mean!


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Hey! The engine and transmission is in and bolted up! Used the motorSport mounts and seemed to work really good. It was really fun and makes you want to do it again. The tranny mount goes in the tunnel like a big U. Ordered the B&M Mega sifter and holley blue today.

Question: http://radiator.com/price.cfm this link is to the Radiator.com site of two radiators. (JTR recomends an '86 Camero "BASE" Radiator) in the book. I realize the price difference between the two is small and the Upgrade one will be cooler but if the upgrade won't fit cause it is larger. So the question: is the upgrade one larger. Then you must be thinkin why don't i just call them and find out... well, i might just get a dumb ass that tells me same size them bammm won't fit. OR:-) if I'm off, what radiator do I need. HA hhahahAHHA engine is in. Right now it's primered with bomb primer. ha ha ha ha. It's a bad ride. so, what radiator? icon_cool.gif

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Unless you are using a late model motor, I would go with the Griffin aluminum radiator from Summit racing. The newer cars have smaller radiator hoses than older V8s and you will have to make adapter hoses.

 

[ July 25, 2001: Message edited by: Mike C ]

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Agreed. Auxilary asked me via email what I thought about the radiator issue since I have the Camaro unit--used $75 from wrecker. I said it's money well spent if you can afford to go with the Griffin or Howe. If you are buying new, that the best choice. Doing it over again, Griffin would be my radiator of choice.

 

Davy

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Yeah I want to go with the griffin GRI-1-25202-X Chevrolet: 24 in. length x 19in. height radiator ... But the jtr bible says aluminum rads crack at the tanks in one year or something like that.

 

Mike, my motor is a 1994 350 4 bolt Goodwrench crate motor Serial#(10066038. So you said if the motor was a late motor go with the camero, what do you think?

 

What about aluminum water pumps?

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Aluminum OEM rads will start to separate at the plastic tanks after a few years (the epoxy starts to bulge out). Griffin's are all aluminum and very sturdy IMO. I've had a front end incident etc..it was mildly bent/bent it back straight..over 4-5 yrs use and mine's HARD mounted with rubber bushings (common rad type mounting bolts) and no trouble whatsoever. Just my .02c.

 

water pumps: howard stewarts stuff is very good and appropriately priced, both Griffin and Stewart are nascar items and seem to work v. good for me, I run 87 octane in my 9.4:1 350 and have had no signs of knock or other related issues

 

[ July 25, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

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ok, now I see. the camero one is plastic and aluminum! I did not know that. Guys i talk to around here say to stay away from them that they are crap.

 

So is GRI-1-25202-X Chevrolet: 24 in. length x 19in. the right one at summit. It has two rows of 1 in. diameter tubing, is this right? it is 181.95 $

 

I know I'm starting to be a pain about this rad thing but i must be sure. hhahahhah, engine is in. I have been storing this car for 15 years in my garage.

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I was just reading through the JTR book the other night about radiators after talking with DavyZ, and they advise against aluminum radiators because they tend to crack within a year of use? I'm not doubting JTR, but I wanted to see what your guys' feedback is, especially if the car's built to run street and track, and not just track.

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That PN and size sound right. I got 2 rows of 1.25" tubes icon_biggrin.gif but it was probably overkill. I'd had troubles with an OE camaro rad so asked for a guarantee from Griffin it wouldnt' overheat. They'd only firmly guarantee the 1.25 would do the job.

 

Auxiliary: search the forum, lots of aluminum feedback...mines' been daily driver since I had it as OEM, it was down for ~2 mos. during the swap but has seen some 40,000miles since then on very rough roads daily and lots of track fun.

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Auxilary, I'm thinking that when they first published that info maybe the racing radiators were not the hot ticket that they are now. Mike Knell acknowledged the shortage of genuine Camaro radiators and is looking for an economical alternative. For the money and presumably the quality, the Griffin or Howe is tough to beat. I'll take Ross' advice since he has been running one for a while now.

 

Of primary importance in any radiator is how it is mounted. Isolating the radiator is key so it won't fall apart under vibration. I sourced some good soft lower mounts from a Chevy S-10 (I think that's what it was) and the upper metal brackets and isolators from a Volvo. They should work out peachy keen.

 

Davy

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Heh, sounds like my radiator thread again. go for the all aluminum radiator. JTR may claim they crack but kripes they hold up to 500 MILES of hard race track abuse and bumping. How bad could they be?! Seriously, I've seen some pretty tweaked all aluminum radiators solid mounted in race cars that held up fine at the roundy rounds. DO use the S10 mounts for the top if nothing else. They're made of silicone, are cheap, and fit the top of the Howe radiator well. Bottom I had to fab...

 

P.S. Spoke to a radiator guy. He said he can repair the GM epoxied radiators but NOT the Ford units. DO run a good 2 speed fan from a Taurus, cheap and they beat the daylights out of fans like the Black Magic that Jegs sells. Mounting is a PITA though...

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Hey Guys Im running the Griffith 24x19x1.25 and have had it for 1.5 years with no problems. Just be careful when installing, wherever it will rub. Touch metal etc. use some rubber in between. I just bought bicycle tube and cut it to fit and presto.

 

By the way I have very stiff front suspension as in no give and all seems well so!! Good luck what ever way you go.

 

Mike icon_biggrin.gif

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