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Are 280Z Driveshafts Rebuildable?


misterZ

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I dropped the driveshaft to replace the tail seal on my `77 when I noticed the u-joints bind on both ends; FSM says these are 'throw-away' driveshafts yet MSA and others offer rebuilds w/ replaceable u-joints.

 

I was going to take it to a local machine shop to see if it can be rebuilt w/ new (replaceable) u-joints but am I wasting my time?

 

Thanks in advance,

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Well the shop I took it to today said it's not rebuildable due to the 'locked' (slotted caps) u-joints(?). This is a very reputable and highly recommended machine shop that builds driveshafts all day long so it may be more of an 'integrity' issue that he feels he doesn't want to attempt or be responsible for the results and prefers to build from scratch (and put more $$ in his pocket :roll:); he took measurements and will quote me a new (custom built) DS tomorrow.

 

Aside from all that, he knew about the MSA rebuilds but said they just replace the ends and pitch the old ones... w/e (didn't quite follow what he was saying). When I mentioned I considered MSA's aluminum DS, he said not for a DD, it won't last and proceeded to show me a pile (mountain) of old busted driveshafts and a lot (the worst) were aluminum. He said they're made for track use and serious racers (NASCAR) replace them after every race or ~500 mi... scared me away (reminded me of the solid diff mount thread on here somewhere in [Drivetrains] :wink:)!

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the u-joints were sweged into the yokes-there were no grooves for the u-joint c-clips.a drive shaft shop would cut the old yokes off of the tube on a lathe.the weld in new yokes.if you are upgrading to alot more hp you need to get a driveshaft with bigger u-joints.that involves swapping the pinion flange on the diff.i changed a u-joint that snapped at sacramento dragway once for a guy with a l28 turbo that snapped it on the line

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A couple years ago I paid $152 for the Z28 driveshaft I had shortened with a new yoke and the JTR flange and 3310 u-joint installed. That included balanceing too.

 

 

I'll wait for the quote and make sure it includes balancing b/c I'd like to have it balanced @ 3000 rpm--is there a standard and what is a reasonable price to expect for the finished product?
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Rebuilding the non-rebuild able shafts, like I've done is a bit of a PITA. You have to hone the yoke out to the rebuild able u-joint size and machine the inside of the yoke to be the correct width for the joint (I was bored, don't judge me). Also, I think there is an older mercedes or bmw u-joint that would only require the reaming/honing but I cant for the life of me remember what it is.

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