zatsun Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 77 non-turbo On the oil pump and shaft, does that just slide in and out once the swaybar is dropped and 4 bolts removed? Or does it need to be timed with the engine? I'm taking apart the front cover to remove the head. I saw a thread saying you can do it without removing cover but this is my first time diving into this engine, trying to stay with the FSM but it just says "remove oil pump and shaft". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam280Z Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 It just slides out like you said. When you put it back in, you will want to make sure the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke on the #1 cylinder and align the punch mark as per FSM. You will also want to have the distributor out when you do this so that the distributor drive shaft will go all the way in unobstructed and you can check the orientation of the of the distributor drive tang as described in the FSM. Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PanzerAce Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 What sam said. The oil pump is what actually times the dizzy and is connected to the crank, so while for a complete disassemble stuff can come out haphazard without problem, putting it back together you have to pay attention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zatsun Posted December 18, 2009 Author Share Posted December 18, 2009 Thanks guys. Haven't noticed the punch marks, but that's probably because the PO took a few cans of spray paint to the engine. Like I said the front cover will be off, so I'll stick to the #1 TDC script when timing chain, oil pump and dizzy go back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam280Z Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 The oil pump goes in after the front cover is back on. The mark is on the oil pump/distributor drive shaft. I hope the PO didn't get paint in there. If you are taking the front cover and timing chain off, it is best to set the engine at #1 piston at TDC on compression first. If you turn the engine over without the timing chain installed, you run the risk of bending a valve or two... Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 Don't worry about the timing when you put it in. The position of the rotor shouldn't matter at all. When the manual has you bust your balls to get the rotor in the 11 o'clock position, its *almost* in vein... Reason being, when the rotor comes around to each point, it doesn't give a damn whether that point is cylinder 1 or 4 or whatever. Just be sure to put #1 at TDC compression (where #1 is sparking). Insert the shaft, put on the dizzy. Now at this point refer to the picture: If the rotor is pointing in the 2 o'clock position then designate that "prong" or "point" or "plug", as #1, then just follow the regular firing order in the counter clockwise position like so... If its pointing to a different prong then just arrange the wires so they're in the right order, easy. Don't lose sleep over like... what position its in. The only time you would have a slight "problem" is when the rotor points between two prongs. In this case, if you choose to designate the prong to the right (clockwise) of the rotors position, then your timing will be retarded, however, if you choose the prong to the left (counter clockwise) it will be advance. You can readjust by twisting the dizzy obviously. There should be plenty of room for you to get it back to zero, however I doubt you will have that problem at all. I had this happen to me, I readjusted, and I am still running 35º of advance with plenty more for me to go if I desired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 josh817, I'm glad that worked out for you, but I made this mistake the first time I rebuilt an L6 and tried to resolve it the way you describe. In my case I couldn't rotate the dizzy enough to get the proper timing so had to drop the front anti roll bar and oil pump and do it the right way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zatsun Posted December 19, 2009 Author Share Posted December 19, 2009 Found a bolt IN the oil pump. It's the same size as the distributor hold down bolts but all chewed up now. Pump still spins freely but has slight drag through about 60 deg of rotation. "Did you have oil pressure when the car ran?" Dunno. It had a bad sender unit when I got the car. I know this because I grounded the wire to block and gauge went to infinity. Got a new sender (the cheapest one from auto parts, a gold one). When I started the car it would shoot up to the top then immediately go back to zero. I figured this was something with this being the cheap sender and was going to replace it with the OEM type. Now I think maybe the pump was spinning freely on engine start until that bolt jammed it up. But if this was the case, wouldn't the distributor stop turning too or at least grind up the camshaft gear? I've got an oil pressure tester now. When it all goes back together, I'll be able to tell if the oil pump still works.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 josh817, I'm glad that worked out for you, but I made this mistake the first time I rebuilt an L6 and tried to resolve it the way you describe. In my case I couldn't rotate the dizzy enough to get the proper timing so had to drop the front anti roll bar and oil pump and do it the right way. Yah I guess it all depends.... The base plates to the dizzy really matters too. I had to hobble mine to make it work the way I wanted. I think if I remember correctly, I actually lengthened the slot a little bit to allow more adjustment. Also, some of the dizzy's/plates barely allowed for any adjustment... And for Zatsun, if you have a spare motor or parts, see if you can get your hands on another spindle. Chop the gears off and you can slide it down through the dizzy side of the timing cover. Get it engaged in the oil pump and then hook a drill onto it. This way you can spin up the pump to see if it is getting pressure. Now of course, you will have to drop the pump again when you go to put in the proper, geared, spindle. Also be sure to prime the pump with oil or pack it really well with grease. That pump has the suck oil from all the way down the block. On my first start up we were getting risky because the electric gauge is so slow and we still had no pressure. I went to get a hand pump you use for like filling transmissions with oil, stuck it into the oil pressure sensor hole and pumped the galley up. All this was due to me not packing the oil pump and the galley before hand so it was just sucking air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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