crazyoctopus Posted December 8, 2010 Author Share Posted December 8, 2010 when I finish up later today you'll see why I am not cleaning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted December 9, 2010 Author Share Posted December 9, 2010 The horribleness that I mentioned yesterday was only compiled with yet even more lameness and ****. For the kids who keep asking why isn’t my engine cleaned, painted, pretty; this is why… Yeah… that is a cracked block. I didn’t see it before because the block was dirty, so while I was cleaning it I found it. I reached my fingers inside of the flame trap opening and found out that it is a straight crack through the block. Balls. So I did some research and made a call to Josh and asked if it was weldable; it isn’t. He mentioned that the best thing to do would just be to just JB Weld it and hope for the best. I love JB Weld, but this is kind of pushing it to limit of how much I trust it. So I did a bit of lurking on the internets to see if other people have done this, and surprisingly there are quite a few outboard boats that do it. Seeing as I am so far along in the project, and the next half-off junkyard day isn’t until the end of the month I figured that I will keep using the block until it blows up and just have another one waiting. Before I started on the crack I purchased what the hardware guy said was a “sure thing†to remove my stuck bolt in the head. Yeah, no. It snapped within the bolt, **** that. If there is an exhaust leak, there is a leak and unless I find another head it’ll be there for awhile. Then I turned to the turbo and tried to get out the two bolts that are also seized, no prying could help, and it already wore down two of my bits so I have to get some more tomorrow, and hopefully something will go right for me. So after all that I finally got around to cleaning the area around the crack Made a grove where the crack is so that the JB Weld can have even more contact with the metal around the crack. Roughed up the groove, cleaned the surrounding area, and brought out the good stuff. Mixed it together, and dumped it all around. Then I cleaned up the bit on my oil pan and while the engine was on its side I fixed the tension on the timing belt. So that end another day, and now I am off for a coffee and then later drown in vodka+ while playing GT5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvgz28 Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 Damn that blows about the block and the run of bad luck but you took the same route i would have with the block, I mean hell If you read the package the jb weld comes in it gives some little comforting short story about how it was used to fix a cracked block on a dozer and blah blah blah and saved the day and cured world hunger lol. Also that setup you got for GT5 is the ****! Does it have a clutch pedel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted December 9, 2010 Author Share Posted December 9, 2010 heh, yeah not only fixes your block but will cure cancer! and no i have the diving force GT, not the G25 wasnt that flush with cash at the time heh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvgz28 Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 ehh, clutch or not its still awesome! I think iv deiced to go with the s13 dash on my project, did you ever do anything about the gap at the windshield and how bad is it? I'v tried to distinguish the gap from your pictures but the glare on the windshield makes it kind of hard. On another note, that bolt that broke off in your manifold, If you try to drill it out get a left hand drill bit. From my past experiences after you get almost all the way through the broke fastener it loosens up and since your drilling with a counter clock wise motion the bolt will just come right out.... its almost a "sure thing" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted December 9, 2010 Author Share Posted December 9, 2010 haha i'll try that tomorrow as i need to drill it out anyway. And the gap isn't that bad, maybe an inch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted December 10, 2010 Author Share Posted December 10, 2010 Yesterday I finished manhandling my head and turbo to get everything to bolt up together with the least chance of leaking with the hand that I was dealt. To fix the bolt that was broken off in the head I tried reverse drill bits, titanium drill bits, and finally ended up falling in love with cobalt bits. I figured I’d tackle the easier of the two problems first, the turbo. The 15g had the bottom two studs broken off, and there was no way that I was going to try to easy-out them, so I starting drilling into it. The first pilot bit, standard high speed, broke off; the second bit, titanium, broke off; finally the third pilot bit, cobalt, went through it like butter. I was able to center one of the bits perfectly on one of the bolts, but on the other I wasn’t as lucky. So instead of having 4 equally round holes I now have 3 and 1 more like a slot. After that was taken care of and cleaned I moved onto the head. I tried every pilot bit that I could find and/or buy to get drill into the snapped easy-out but nothing was working. So I called up Josh and asked if I was to drill and tap on either side of the hole would that accomplish sealing the manifold. He said that I was taking a very drastic approach and could not guarantee that it would work, but there is a chance that it might. Seeing as I had no other option I took the chance. Aluminum is super easy to cut through so I went at it slowly. After that was taken care of I tapped into the head with a 1/4-28 bit. Then I put some bearing grease on the head and mounted up the YoshiFab adapter plate to get an idea of where the two holes were placed. I took out my cobalt bits and started drilling away. I knew that there was really no way that I was going to get the holes perfect on the first pass, so after a few mounting and test fits later I was able to open the holes up enough to clear the bolt. Put in the bolts and tightened the whole plate down. This led to another expected issue, bolt head clearance with the manifold. Marked up the manifold, put it in a vise and started grinding away the worthless material. In the end it looked like this. Mounted it to the plate, and tightened all of the bolts down. And by the way, does volvo hate the people that work on their cars? Because who in their right mind would make a 4 piece exhaust gasket... Now my engine is really starting to look like a real one. Today my only goal is to re-clock the turbo and order the clutch, pressure plate, and pilot bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvgz28 Posted December 11, 2010 Share Posted December 11, 2010 Well that sucks that bolt is being a pita! I'm installing my coil over adapter tubes and its being a huge *****, IV tried heat, beating,sanding the spindle tube I even tried cussing it into submission but its not even close to fitting ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted December 11, 2010 Author Share Posted December 11, 2010 have you tried grinding down the strut a little bit? That was the best thing that worked for us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvgz28 Posted December 11, 2010 Share Posted December 11, 2010 Ya I tried a ton of stuff. Check out my post in the s13 Bible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyc Posted December 11, 2010 Share Posted December 11, 2010 i've heard napa has some crazy broken stud removal process...runs like $25 a busted bolt...but is supposed to work awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 Just an FYI, machine shops usually charge a reasonable rate to remove broken bolts/studs. Also, the crack looks perfectly weldable. My boss welds engine blocks almost every day, from aluminum outboards, iron blocks, and even magnesium ones every now and then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snailed Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 next time you break a bolt just have your welder friend weld a washer to it, then weld a nut to that and wind it out. I have had really good success doing it that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted December 14, 2010 Share Posted December 14, 2010 The crack looks to be in a non structural part of the block too so welding will be fine. Make sure you run an oxy over the area to heat it up first or you're weld will not penetrate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted December 31, 2010 Author Share Posted December 31, 2010 Day 1 of half off at Pick Your Part, so I picked up the late 90+ exhaust manifold to improve the flow. Better manifold by crazyoctopus, on Flickr Tomorrow I'll be heading to Long beach to hit the two that are up there, hopefully find a block in good condition and pull it. If not then I'll head back to the Chula Vista yard and start tearing those down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmanout84 Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 That manifold looks ready to cook whatever oil passes through that filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 back from the dead. finally ordered and received my gauges from egauges, unfortunately they sent me the wrong tach so I have to wait another week for that... 026 by crazyoctopus, on Flickr also my pressure plate (92 940 turbo) and clutch (85 SVO mustang turbo 4 cyl) came in and am waiting to get some info back on the status of my pilot bearing. I will be picking up a welder tomorrow to have ready for this weekend when I'll be mounting the engine and tranny in the car!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted February 6, 2011 Author Share Posted February 6, 2011 **** this day... So we woke up a bit late and didn't get started on buying tools (welder, mask, cutting blade, grinding wheel, etc.) and picking up some metal until around 11am. After we picked up all that we needed we dropped by the junkyard to see if there was anything of value and for the most part just took our time. By the time we finally got to the house it was around 4pm. We started to mate the bellhousing to the T5, when we ran into an issue, it didn't work. Either I forgot and didn't take care of it, or I wasn't told that the only way the adapter plate will work is if we modify the bellhousing. I wasn't too pleased with this, and in all reality I am getting real fed up with running into these ******* set-backs at nearly every turn. Martin and I decided that since we don't have all the time in the world, we should at least mock it up the best that we can and at least get the engine mounts welded in place. unfortunately we ran out of daylight before we could actually get the engine inside of the car, so it will be a project for tomorrow before the Super Bowl. For now here are some shots for your viewing pleasure 036 by crazyoctopus, on Flickr oh come on... by crazyoctopus, on Flickr oh come on... by crazyoctopus, on Flickr oh come on... by crazyoctopus, on Flickr --oh yeah Martin bought a 18" machete, aka small sword, that he painted black for "tactical reasons." This is the gap is the reason that we are going to have to fudge the transmission mount for now... oh come on... by crazyoctopus, on Flickr oh come on... by crazyoctopus, on Flickr more on this tomorrow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
250z Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 Great build thus far, thanks for posting so many quality pics. Ive read this entire thread. keep up the good work, hope you get those issues resolved. cant wait to see it finally running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Can't you just countersink or counterbore the bolt holes that go to the bellhousing? Then it would sit nice and flush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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