Crazyoctopus 1972 240z build up (long first post)

[crazyoctopus]

yep 515 to my door

[crazyoctopus]

was able to pick up the headers, exhaust, and syncrometer from MSA yesterday, and so i took pictures of the initial install.

 

 

while I was removing the stock exhaust i broke a bolt, the one right under the thermostat housing, so i had to remove the housing to pit some vice grips around it and get it off that way. it broke again... then i pulled out my easy-out set drilled a hole and tapped the bit in; then the easy out bit broke off inside the already sheered bolt... so i drilled another pilot hole and just decided to drill out the opening. Then my bit broke inside of the bolt... after 2 breaks in the bolt, a snapped easy-out, and a broken drill bit i was finally able to clear the bolt out and retap the hole.

 

then while putting on the header i ran into a clearance issue with, what seems like, part of the heat shield. With some massaging I was able to get it to fit without it touching.

 

the header flange was a bit bowed, but that will straighten out when then nuts get tightened down, and it seems that i am running into a clearance issue with the cannon intake manifold. I bought some new studs to put into the top intake threads to see if i can squeeze it on there, instead of having to remove the headers and grind down too much of the flange.

[crazyoctopus]

1975280 - i checked the thickness of the cannon flange and the MSA header and they are only .02" different (.63 for the headers and .61 for the mani) I am doing the finally fit after i post this, but it doesnt seem like i will have to grind anything down.

[19762802+2]

1975280 - i checked the thickness of the cannon flange and the MSA header and they are only .02" different (.63 for the headers and .61 for the mani) I am doing the finally fit after i post this, but it doesnt seem like i will have to grind anything down.

 

Thats great, glad that worked out and back to the broken stud I feel your pain that same bolt broke on my engine also but I have been unable to get to it, when I take the engine out I will work on that. but good luck this car is going to be a beast.

[yetterben]

zoooooooming yet?

[crazyoctopus]

not yet, have to route fuel lines and then it will! hopefully...

 

looks pretty as is though

 

[hoov100]

is that the L28 I gave you?

[crazyoctopus]

nope that is just kinda sitting there, barely touched it since i got it to the house. gonna be my backup engine if/when this one goes, and if i dont decide to swap in something different.

[misturmoneybags]

One quick question.

 

Is there a reason why you went with the Diamond Pro series instead of the Challenger (about $20 less)?

[crazyoctopus]

I dont like the look of the rotary phoneish look of the challengers, i prefer D-windows.

[yetterben]

For a crazy Octi you sure do work slow

[crazyoctopus]

it was easter weekend i was drunk the whole time, and drunken tuning only yeilds... well... it yields amazing, but i was busy.

 

connected up the fuel lines today though and she fired right up! then she idled to 3k rpm and started to smoke like mad cakes. not too worried about the smoke as these are brand new header, exhaust, mani, etc. and have been sitting for about a week.

 

I need to find a good weber book/web page that tells me how to set idle and richness and blah blah blah before i start her up again.

 

ordered the extremely expensive ($28/horn) airhorns/stacks/venturis as well, you were right yetterben the aux venturi's just fell right out while the engine was running.

 

once i get all of the settings down, then it comes time for some rear brake lines gauges and the super exciting part of ripping the electrical out and installing my diagram!

[yetterben]

The screws on the very back of your carbs are the idle mixture screws. These are what set your idle and use only these. Start buy turning them all the way in gently that leans the mixture all teh way out. Then turn them out .5 turns to start. You are looking for the best smoothest lean idle on these. If you have to turn them out more than 1.5 your idle jets are to small. If you have to keep them less than .5 they are to big.

 

Now the screw on the throttle stops are for throttle blade syncro. Dont let anyone tell you this is how you set your idle speed as they are dead wrong. Turn them all in till they just barely touch the throttle stop. Take a piece of hose and listen to each carb and make sure they are all open the same amount. unisyn is junk get a syncro meter or a hose. Hose is better than unisyn.

 

There is a big fat flat head screw right in front of the mixture screws its pretty big. Take that out at with the engine off. These are your progression ports. There should be 3 holes staggered in there. You want the throttle blade no farther out than the hole closest to the intake mani. Your idle will change when you adjust the syncro because you let in a little air. Re adjust mixture screws to suit. When you think you have it go to the other side and pull a plug wire. The mixture is correct when the rpm drop is the same for every cyl or close.

 

 

 

Test drive time. Also when you are doing the initial setup the throttle arms must be disconnected from the carbs so pop your arms off before you start. DONT LET ANYONE TELL YOU TO ADJUST THE THROTTLE STOPS TO SET IDLE. Thats not how it works and you are cheating the system and will get a lean stumble off the line because you are drawing fuel out of the well for idle and its NOT RIGHT.

 

If you have a issue zach call me.

Edited April 6, 2010 by yetterben

[logan1]

 

 

Hey bro I got a few questions about your rim/tire combo.

 

Are those really 225’s you have on 15x10 rims? They look a lot wider than 225’s or the rims look a lot narrower than 10â€.

Also do you like the 4.5†back spacing or do you think that a 15x10 rim with 4†back spacing would fit the ZG’s better?

Did you have to pay the extra $10 per wheels for the 4x4.5†lug pattern or was it considered standard?

 

Do you have any side and rear profile pictures of the car with the rims/tires that you can share?

 

Thanx

john

[crazyoctopus]

-the photo that you are looking at is one that someone in the UK photoshopped. Here is the same picture without all of the moving and color changes.

 

 

-yes the wheels are indeed 15x10 with 4.5" bs here is a photo from when the boxes came in, and one of the tyre size.

 

 

there are two reasons why I went with a 4.5" back spacing with 225.50 tyres all around and they stem from two photos. The first couple are shots of Yuta's car; he has 15x10 with -25mm of offset (aka 4.5" backspacing) on his front. Since I dont plan on running THAT low, i wont have to massively stretch the tyres so that they will clear the flares. The third photo (rear of the car) has wheels that are 16" in diameter rather than 15" with 225.50 tyres, but due to how high they sit inside the flair I really dont think that i will have an issue looking like a sunken battleship.

 

=if worse comes to worse, I could always buy a spacer to close up that gap.

 

 

so because of these two cars i made my decision of using 15x10 with 4.5"bs instead of using 15x8 with 2.5" of bs; it is up to you if you want to run with 4" of backspacing, you may have to run with slightly thinner tyres though. although if you are looking for more lip go with the lighter 15x8 with 2.5" of backspacing, and then run some rt-615s with a slight bit of stretch.

 

-here are a few of shots of the rear profile, and semi-rear profile of the tyres; sorry that they are not on the ground but i just installed parts.

 

 

-yes i did have to pay the extra $10 for the bolt pattern http://www.diamondra...challenger.html

 

=for all of my 240z photos just head to http://www.flickr.co...57623019151162/

Edited April 6, 2010 by crazyoctopus

[logan1]

Kool...thanx for all the info.

[crazyoctopus]

got the rear brake lines routed and installed, and while I was at it I swapped in a 15/16th brake master cylinder off of a 280zx that i found in a junkyard a couple weeks back.

 

 

 

and it since it is the night time, my finger slipped and took a shot of the webers again; soon to have 1" velocity stacks!

 

[crazyoctopus]

26mm Velocity stacks are in!

 

 

And since it was 1/2 off at the junkyard today I picked up a honda wiper motor and a 78A 12si alternator (couldn't find the 94A version, but 78 is wired the same and will provide the power that i need).

 

 

There was a 5 speed from a 78 280z, but I have yet to decide if i am going with either the 280z/zx 5speed or the 240sx 5-speed.

 

-gonna head back later this week to get some of the r200 diff swap parts, and then wait on finding a clsd

[hoov100]

What did you end up doing with that L28 I gave you?

[crazyoctopus]

nothing yet, it is under a couple of tarps.

 

I may have to get a new head gasket though, a friend of mine was helping with the front cover plate and bent the gasket pretty bad. Then while i was in the bathroom figured it would be a good idea to snip it off and just use some high temp gasket sealant in its place...

 

other than that nothing, i may use it if the l24 blows up or end up selling it to buy a KA24de or help pay for an RB.