TurboSE Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 RB26DETT: Tomei Oil Pump I bought an N1 pump preparing for a stock rebuild, my build has exceeded the N1. I need a Tomei pump. Nengun has them for $1467USD shipped. I am in the US, shipping will be to Hanover Pa, 17331. If you can beat the price or know a supplier that does, leave me a message! PS - if anyone bought a Tomei and didn't go all-out, I'd be willing to trade the N1 for $175USD off the cost of the Tomei, or sell it for $175 outright. PPS - I want a new Tomei. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast-datsun Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 N1 pump is just the stock pump with a stronger spring.. Tomei, GReddy, HKS are top of the line... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo_fb Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 When/How did you decide that the N1 didn't do it for your engine? I am not sure if I am going to spend all that cash on a oilpump, when I am not running the engine in the high hp numbers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 Unless your turning 9K plus rpm the n1 will work. But of course the tomei will work better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSE Posted January 2, 2010 Author Share Posted January 2, 2010 When/How did you decide that the N1 didn't do it for your engine? I am not sure if I am going to spend all that cash on a oilpump, when I am not running the engine in the high hp numbers... I've done a lot of research and reading and decided after putting new rods and pistons as well as other mods that'll hold up to higher power levels and rpms, I want a top of the line oil pump as well...if I had stayed closer to OEM, I'd be more than happy with my N1...a lot of high HP cars run em, I just don't want to chance it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 Good idea. good luck with the build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSE Posted January 3, 2010 Author Share Posted January 3, 2010 Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSE Posted January 3, 2010 Author Share Posted January 3, 2010 Any thoughts on the JUN pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB-Z Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 Any thoughts on the JUN pump? It's a toss up between the Tomei and Jun... even the Greddy and HKS. However, I've never heard of a Tomei breaking.. ever... even at 9650rpm wich is what my old roommate spins his built 26 to. He's had that motor for 2 years now and is running 26psi on a 35R. Makes crazy power and runs like it is new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSE Posted January 5, 2010 Author Share Posted January 5, 2010 I haven't heard any bad about the JUN, but I found a YouTube video showing the physical differences but if doesn't go into much detail otherwise. Haven't heard too much bad about Greddy or HKS, but the price of the HKS (higher than Tomei from what I've found) makes me think it should never fail, which is not the case (not sure about the "new design:) I'm just debating whether $1100USD for a JUN is worth the sacrifice against a $1455USD Tomei for a street car with light track duty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 N1 pump is just the stock pump with a stronger spring.. Tomei, GReddy, HKS are top of the line... There is a difference (cosmetic?) other than a spring... Top is stock, bottom is N1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSE Posted January 6, 2010 Author Share Posted January 6, 2010 very interesting... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB-Z Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 From what I've read, and experienced.. for anything more than a stock application... I would never use the N1 oil pump. I've heard of WAY to many failures to justify the cheap price for an "upgraded" oil pump. I've seen first hand 2 N1 oil pumps drop oil pressure and destroy a motor under 5000 miles of normal street driving. Under no circumstance would I ever trust an N1 oil pump for anything over 300whp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSE Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 From what I've read, and experienced.. for anything more than a stock application... I would never use the N1 oil pump. I've heard of WAY to many failures to justify the cheap price for an "upgraded" oil pump. I've seen first hand 2 N1 oil pumps drop oil pressure and destroy a motor under 5000 miles of normal street driving. Under no circumstance would I ever trust an N1 oil pump for anything over 300whp. out of curiosity, I know you said "normal street driving"...but do you know exactly what they were doing when the pumps gave out? Were they launching, high RPM's etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSE Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 There is a difference (cosmetic?) other than a spring... Top is stock, bottom is N1 What I meant by "cosmetic" was the video...in the video, they just show the backing plate differences...they don't go into much detail about the performance aspects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 What I meant by "cosmetic" was the video...in the video, they just show the backing plate differences...they don't go into much detail about the performance aspects. Sorry TurboSE, I wasn't implying anything. Just replying more or less as a question about the difference between the N1pump, and the orig. OEM factory assembly line pump. It was meant to mean that there is a difference other than a spring, as said by other member. I'm using a JUN pump. Do I need it...? prolly not. But I got it... I think if you have the wide oil pump drive crank, and you don't stay on the rev limiter, or launch control, you should be fine with a Genuine Nissian oil pump. There are thousands of RB26's still going strong out there in the world, using reg oil pumps, but they are not being abused either. I honestly would feel fine using a reg pump on my set up (R33 crank with wide oil drive) because of the way I treat my motor. I just had to have the JUN at the time, cause I was in the "while I'm at it" frame of mind while building my car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSE Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 I know what you mean about the "while I'm at it" state of mind, that's where I'm at...plus, I just sold the N1, so I might as well "go big or go home" I found a good deal on the JUN, might just go that route. Thanks for the input! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB-Z Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 out of curiosity, I know you said "normal street driving"...but do you know exactly what they were doing when the pumps gave out? Were they launching, high RPM's etc? No, we were driving to the gas station and it dropped oil pressure completely. We though maybe something blocked the pickup, or something was in the filter. Nope.. pulled the pump apart and it went into self destruct mode. It basically just grenaded itself. Looked like it just fell apart. If you do end up using the N1 pump, get the JUN crank collar. Rev limiters are what kill the stock/N1 pumps. With the smaller stock crank collar it basically rattles and beats the pump out of the housing. I would think with the billet crank collar the N1 pump would last a bit longer.. but I still wouldn't trust it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB-Z Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 I know what you mean about the "while I'm at it" state of mind, that's where I'm at...plus, I just sold the N1, so I might as well "go big or go home" I found a good deal on the JUN, might just go that route. Thanks for the input! Yeah, if you found a a good deal on the JUN, jump on it. It is the most important piece.. IMO.. of the RB26 puzzle. Other than getting the oil back to the pan... but that's a whole different problem in itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSE Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 No, we were driving to the gas station and it dropped oil pressure completely. We though maybe something blocked the pickup, or something was in the filter. Nope.. pulled the pump apart and it went into self destruct mode. It basically just grenaded itself. Looked like it just fell apart. If you do end up using the N1 pump, get the JUN crank collar. Rev limiters are what kill the stock/N1 pumps. With the smaller stock crank collar it basically rattles and beats the pump out of the housing. I would think with the billet crank collar the N1 pump would last a bit longer.. but I still wouldn't trust it. Sold the N1, so I'm definitely upgrading...already have the collar installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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