RB rear sump pan dimaensions.

[kiwi303]

I'm starting to set to and fab up a casting mould for a cast aluminium RB rear sump pan, But since I don't have a 200ZR pan on hand to take sizes off, could someone run a ruler over their stock RB pan and fill in the numbers on the picture below for me?

 

 

A:

B:

C:

D:

E:

F:

G:

 

Thanks

Edited January 22, 2010 by kiwi303
200ZR, not 200ZXR

[kiwi303]

Anyone?

[RB26powered74zcar]

I will measure mine tomorrow for you.

[kiwi303]

I will measure mine tomorrow for you.

 

Thank You

[z-ya]

What about molding one from an oil/heat resistant composite of some sort? I'm not sure if such a material exists, but it would be easy to make a mold of a stock one.

 

Anyone know who the OEM is that makes pans for Nissan?

[RB26powered74zcar]

I tried my dam-dist to measure this for you today. I could not get to all the areas with out getting on a lift. The pan I have is a RIPS, and it has many angles that I just couldn't measure.... sorry!! PM'd you.

[kiwi303]

Thanks for the pics and measurements Joel

 

Mine is going to be a heck of a lot simpler than the RIPS pan, but those measurements let me know the important bits, the missing measurements can be worked out with trig, cosines, all that stuff... I need to find my high school maths texts

[RB26powered74zcar]

Thanks for the pics and measurements Joel

 

Mine is going to be a heck of a lot simpler than the RIPS pan, but those measurements let me know the important bits, the missing measurements can be worked out with trig, cosines, all that stuff... I need to find my high school maths texts

 

Thanks, glad it helped a little any ways. Be sure to let me know when you get them pans ready to sell. I may take one off your hands for future stuff...

[NZeder]

Just spotted this thread - I have the stock 200zr pan and the engine is not in the car it is on the stand so I take those measurement for you if you like off the stock pan also.

 

Let me know if you need them - I will get them for you anyway.

 

Cheers

Mike

[kiwi303]

That would be great Mike, the location of the Dipstick would be useful as well, how far from the front and rear of the pan, it would be a pain if the pan is made and needs it's own little dipstick instead of just using the stock one.

[kiwi303]

I was going to keep my progress secret until I come out with a ready-to-go pan so I could show off and brag But decided, hell, PAT1 has a pan in production and fast-datsun/Mickkiney motorsport has a shop fabbing some up. I may as well show off now, Who's going to bother to spend the time, effort and money copying what I am doing

 

Nickel and Diming is a pain, currently up to NZ$246.5 spent on this project not including labour, with most of the stuff still shipping and due to start arriving tomorrow (Monday) After that things should speed up until I run out of materials again.

 

Base for the female half of the primary mould made, but it still needs coating and final smoothing. The wax for that was expected in fridays mail, but since it wasn't there, Monday should bring it. Epoxy and 450 gram glassfiber mat should be either monday or wednesday mail.

 

The base mould, coated in wax to make a nice smooth surface, unlike the shaved expandafoam bulks surface, will form the outside dimensions of the eventual pan.

 

Step one, of making the expandafoam base substrate is finished. I filled an apple box with offcuts of expandafoam making it

 

Step two will start when the wax arrives, in making the base mould smooth and to the final shape with a coating of wax.

 

Step 3 will wait on the epoxy and matting, and will be a case of making a splash mould of the wax pan sculpture. Step 4 will be using sheets of wax to line the inside of the splash mould and forming such details as thicker spots for oil temp sender mount locations, oil drain plug location, stuff like that. The wax will be the final shape of the eventual pan.

 

Step 5 will be to make another splash mould of the interior of the pan.

 

Step 6 will be to clean the wax out and clean the splash moulds thoroughly. Followed by using the male and female, inner and outer moulds to make a solid fibreglass model of the eventual pan.

 

Step 7 is to take the copy of the desired pan to a local aluminum jobbing foundry and have them run off copies in cast aluminium. Green sand casting is the most likely method of manufacture.

 

If there is sufficient demand and people want these pans, I could take the master copy or the splash moulds to a iron foundry and have cast iron dies cast of the moulds, to enable die cast pans to be made. But I'm not really expecting that much demand.

 

I am thinking about baffles, if I make the baffle walls parallel to the sides of the pan so dies can be used in casting, they will lean inside at a 10 degree angle when the pan and motor are installed in the car, If I make them perpendicular to the floor of the pan, they will lean relative to the wall at a 10 degree angle, meaning dies cannot be used.

 

I may, once the pan is compete, look at making externally cast baffles as a separate piece, allowing the trapdoors to be installed out of the pan with plenty of work room, then which can be slipped into the pan as a unit and tigged in place.

[amorfin]

Looking good.

 

As far as demand it's out there... but I think more for a ~$200 (US) pan. Instead of a $500+ pan. After all, all the 200zr pans were sold out...

[garvice]

COOL!

 

Think about putting a thicker flange on the passenger side (were talking the right passenger side, I.E. the left side) for people to mount an external oil pickup. That will make the rb26 motor conversions easier. Oil temp mount point sounds cool, I like that.

[kiwi303]

COOL!

 

Think about putting a thicker flange on the passenger side (were talking the right passenger side, I.E. the left side) for people to mount an external oil pickup. That will make the rb26 motor conversions easier. Oil temp mount point sounds cool, I like that.

 

 

Like this pic of Joels from the "RIPS pan arrived" thread? http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/7471/kodac0052232604.th.jpg

this is a rear view of Joels (J. Soileau RB26zcar, Cor, what a long username! ) RIPS baffled welded pan with 2 oil returns and an external oil pick up on the short side, oil drain on the right side?

 

I was thinking of leaving a thickened section of pan wall to allow the drilling and tapping for the installation of an oil return from a turbo, where Joels has 2. It shouldn't be any extra work to leave enough area for 3 taps, one pickup and two returns, to enable fitment to a RB26DETT, through my initial plans were as a simple unbaffled cheap(ish) simple replacement for an unbaffled stock front sump RB20/25 pan with a single turbo return location.

 

Now I'm thinking about baffles and other embellishments... Can some members of the military-industrial complex please repeat after me "Mission Creep"

 

The DDX and the LCS suffered mission creep, so did the FCS, ATF, and so many other things

 

Extending the single turbo return location to sufficent area for 2 returns and an external pick up to be installed wont change much.

 

I'll focus on getting the base unbaffled pan working first for stock-ish performance levels. Then once it's done and proven, I can look at having baffles made which can be slipped in, even retrofitted to existing pans I would hope, for mildly tuned or lightly modified systems.

 

Franckly, I'm not even thinking about high performance batwing or widened pans like the RIPS pan for seriously modified or hardcore racing applications. If someone has the budget for that sort of build, RIPS is available already. I'm aiming for like the Arizona Z pan, http://www.arizonazcar.com/pan.html but where the AZCar L-series pan is sitting straight up and down in the car, the baffles are easy to cast in as part of the base pan. On the other hand, RB sitting on the angle it does, doesn't lend itself so well to cast-in-place baffles. So much easier to make an unbaffled angled RB entry level pan.

[pat1]

Kiwi, Please take this as constructive criticism.I noticed that you said that you were going to build a oil pan without baffles. This will cause problems in the future with your new customers .Without baffles it will have a problem with oil starvation and oil sloshing from side to side and front to back. Resulting in a failed product, wasted money and upset customers. I would like to see your product as well as mine to accell and be a good product so everyone is happy.The volume of your pan is huge and will require alot of oil to fill up the pan to correct level. I would try to slim that down to use less oil and better fitment and cost less in materials. I can help you design a baffle for your pan. I have a new design that a member on this board brought to my attention (THANKS RKLAMB123) and will use on my next pan.

If you want please let me know.

 

thanks

Patrick

[garvice]

Like this pic of Joels from the "RIPS pan arrived" thread? http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/7...2232604.th.jpg

this is a rear view of Joels (J. Soileau RB26zcar, Cor, what a long username! ) RIPS baffled welded pan with 2 oil returns and an external oil pick up on the short side, oil drain on the right side?

 

Yeah that is what I meant. A thickened wall is all that is needed, then the AN weld on bungs could be welded on.

 

Brad

[NZeder]

Kiwi - I forgot to send you pics after I send the dimensions but I remembered I have a few pics of the standard rear sump on my site so here they are

 

[ZT-R]

i dont think spray foam will hold up with oil to well.... Just my 2 cents though (guess i should say jk cause there are some retards out there)

[kiwi303]

The russian expandafoam, when coated with bondo, can be pretty versatile Have you seen the cars made from that combination?

[260zman]

Hey Kiwi303,

love your work! i'd be a keen starter if you get this into production. I've always wanted an alloy oilpan in my 260z, instead of my custom one (tank switched around, new baffles, extended wings etc). keep us posted with whats goin on!