jacob80 Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 Look at all these spikes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Notice that 25v spike? And if you look, you also had a max voltage of 30.0 volts. View around the reset and see what your voltage and baro are doing. You may need Matt from DIY to step in, this is getting a bit out of my league now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 And I just found the little SecL gauge at the bottom of the page, looks like it momentarily resets, but continues ticking. 203, 204, BLIP, 205. The datalog is above if you need to look at it in real time. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 SecL is like a timer, or a time line. Your voltage should linger around 14v with the car running. View your accel enrich, mapdot, and tpsdot so we can veiw those in a log. Sorry, I am at work and cannot veiw a log at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 Notice that 25v spike? And if you look, you also had a max voltage of 30.0 volts. View around the reset and see what your voltage and baro are doing. You may need Matt from DIY to step in, this is getting a bit out of my league now. Exactly. This is probably a contributor to the big picture. Look at this. How bizarre are these readings! This is right when it goes lean and takes a dump on me: Notice how throttle position is not changed, but it just leans out and commits suicide. Also, the SecL is completely resetting right before this occurs. SecL behaivor: 27,28,29,30,31,32,33,0,1,RESET (red vertical line),0,1,..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Exactly. This is probably a contributor to the big picture. Look at this. How bizarre are these readings! This is right when it goes lean and takes a dump on me: Notice how throttle position is not changed, but it just leans out and commits suicide. Also, the SecL is completely resetting right before this occurs. SecL behaivor: 27,28,29,30,31,32,33,0,1,RESET (red vertical line),0,1,..... That means you had a proccessor reset. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Resets When MegaSquirt® resets, MegaTune displays a 'RESET X' in the lower right corner (where X is the cumulative number of resets (including restarts)) - it will also beep. Resets can cause a number of problems that cause the engine to run badly, including messing up the baro correction and enabling after start enrichment. So you should try to cure any reset issues before putting a lot of effort into tuning. Resets generally indicate that the power to the processor was interrupted. This could mean that the input power actually was cut, but it can also mean that there was a power surge into the back plane (ground), so that there was no longer a 5v differential between the inputs and the grounds... Resets are often caused by noisy power supplies (usually the alternator), or poor grounds. First, fix the grounds, make sure all are perfect and do not connect to areas that are dirty, rusted or painted. Place them close together. To check the alternator, you can shut the engine off, remove the wiring to the alternator (don't let it ground on anything, some wires might be hot). The start the engine and see if the resets go away. If the resets disappear, the alternator is the problem. You can fix the alternator and/or add a car stereo power filter to the MegaSquirt® controller's 12V supply. These are cheap (~$5) and widely available. They typically have three wires: one from a switched 12V source (the original source for the MegaSquirt® controller), one to go to the MegaSquirt® controller (with clean power), and a ground wire. Ignition noise, solenoids turning on or off, and that sort of thing can also cause resets. Check your harness routing to see if any ground or signal wires are near noise sources such as spark plug wires or the coil. Finally, non-resistor spark plugs have been known to cause resets. Use resistor plugs whenever possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 Oh dear, I'm going to have fun with this one. Honestly, I changed nothing with the wiring, but maybe a ground came loose? I may pull the battery and cables and triple check everything because I've been having starter troubles as well. Ahhh I love it. Any other possibilities? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 I would still try and reflash the firmware. I really don't know how to do this, but a quick search through diyautotune.com or megamanual.com should find you the answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 Looks like I need to jumper something on the board, I wonder if a regular piece of wire would work as a jumper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 They recomend a solid peice of leed. If you read the instructions, they say the lead off a resistor is best. Maybe a small paper clip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 Yeah I have a resistor, guess I'll just cut the wire off one end and jumper it. I really hope this is my issue, most bizarre thing ever. I'll keep you updated, in the meantime, I'll take any suggestions. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexicoker Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Are you running low impedance injectors and using the peak and hold drivers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 Running low impedence bosch 440cc injectors, I believe we're utlitizing a built-in flyback board, but have never really been sure. Here is my board (before swapping my ignition module): Here is my MSQ: http://www.mediafire.com/file/hjnzgyz2jgz/Moby's Settings (DO NOT OVERWRITE).msq These are our injectors: http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/catalog/item/4511825/4545870.htm We do not have inline resistors installed for the injectors. I was told that if we have a fly back board installed, we did not need inline resistors, instead use PWM. Let me know if it looks like we have a flyback board, I have overlooked that and not really checked, but we have run this car before without injectors overheating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexicoker Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 I can't tell by looking at it if you have the flyback stuff, but I was having a similar issue. It was caused by noise from the flyback circuit causing all of those voltage spikes. It killed my BIP373 and voltage regulator circuit one day. After I replaced the damaged components, I disabled the PWM stuff and ran the car AT VERY LOW DUTY CYCLE ONLY to verify that was the problem. Problem was gone. After that I installed the resistors, and disabled all the PWM stuff permanently and the problem has not come back. read this entire thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=154385 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 Another thing to note...during this event, it looked like megasquirt was putting out pulse widths of ~16ms and absolutely saturating my plugs with fuel, wet when I pulled them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 I find this a little weird. Right at this point, my idle started changing and my AFR graph looks like "hills" and the idle kept dipping, then catching up, then dipping, then catching up, but for what reason? There was no change, all enrichments were still present, what happened? It looks like it was idling great before the designated point. I do notice it began to occur after a spike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 Gego active at that rpm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 13, 2010 Author Share Posted February 13, 2010 Gego active at that rpm? No, I do not believe so, but could be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cramer Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 That may be a serial communications glitch. I would need to see the whole data log and not a screen shot to tell for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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