Daphur280 Posted February 26, 2010 Author Share Posted February 26, 2010 I've up the ante to $100 + food and beer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loy Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 (edited) Did you ever check if your switched power stays alive during crank? Also was this an entire swap and running when removed? Also Do you have the white connector in this pic http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p185/phantomstarr/L28et%20into%20S30/DSC00161.jpg hooked up like so? -Green - Constant power (Needs to be run to a 12+ volt constant) -Black with white strip - Switched power (Needs to be run to a 12+ volt switched power) The end from the relay side needs to goto the switched power. Not the harness side. Edited February 26, 2010 by loy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daphur280 Posted February 26, 2010 Author Share Posted February 26, 2010 Did you ever check if your switched power stays alive during crank? Also was this an entire swap and running when removed? Also Do you have the white connector in this pic http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p185/phantomstarr/L28et%20into%20S30/DSC00161.jpg hooked up like so? -Green - Constant power (Needs to be run to a 12+ volt constant) -Black with white strip - Switched power (Needs to be run to a 12+ volt switched power) The end from the relay side needs to goto the switched power. Not the harness side. that white connector isn't hooked up to anything, is it suppose to be connected? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daphur280 Posted February 26, 2010 Author Share Posted February 26, 2010 switched power stays connected through cranking as long as starter solenoid is disconnected, however, switched power I believe goes out when starter is connected. The ECU light stays on through cranking so long as the starter isn't hooked up, and stays on up until cranking when the starter is engaged and connected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 How are you cranking if the starter is disconnected? The ECU needs to have power while cranking or the car won't start. No ECU power while cranking means no fuel or spark while cranking so the engine will never start. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swervey McZCar Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Still a spark problem right? Is the bracket that the Coil Trigger/power transistor (next to your coil) is mounted to well grounded? Crank Angle Sensor, Round Plug connected at the spot about 6 inches downstream from the distributor? Also I'd reconnect the stock coil just to eliminate variables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loy Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 (edited) that white connector isn't hooked up to anything, is it suppose to be connected? Yes. Should be figure N on the l28et swap guide/Plug 3 on the 82/83 supplement pic. Do you have a multimeter? Edited February 27, 2010 by loy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daphur280 Posted February 27, 2010 Author Share Posted February 27, 2010 How are you cranking if the starter is disconnected? The ECU needs to have power while cranking or the car won't start. No ECU power while cranking means no fuel or spark while cranking so the engine will never start. Joe When i meant cranking, I meant i had the ignition switch to the "START" position and the ecu light would be on when the starter was disconnected, but when the starter was connected and I would crank the enginge, the ecu light would go out during cranking... sorry about the confusion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 Okay, so that must be fixed first. You need to find a source that doesn't turn off the ECU while cranking. I'm not familiar with the doc you guys are talking about but it sounds like you are not using the same source as people who have who have running swaps are. Unfortunately, I can't check the source on my car since it is in winter hibernation which is about 20 miles away. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daphur280 Posted February 27, 2010 Author Share Posted February 27, 2010 (edited) Yes. Should be figure N on the l28et swap guide/Plug 3 on the 82/83 supplement pic. Do you have a multimeter? ok so I looked back at the diagram, and yes I did miss this one, So I hooked up everything accordingly on Fig N, and when cranking the ECU light still goes out, and now the fuel pump wont turn off. As another note, I dont know if anyone read towards the beginning of this thread, but because I DID NOT have the harness that plugs the FUEL PUMP RELAY harness to the FI harness, I wired up the FUEL PUMP RELAY seperate from EFI harness. before this whole issue arrised I tested that the FUEL PUMP RELAY and fuel pump were both working properly so I do not suspect its within the way this was wired However I know that the harness that plugs into the FUEL PUMP RELAY harness did supply power to the ECU... which I already wired up to the 8pin connector... oh yeah, still no spark... Edited February 27, 2010 by Daphur280 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loy Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 (edited) So how about my unanswered questions? Do you have a multimeter? Also was this an entire swap and running when removed? Led will go off while cranking. What did you change to your fuel pump wiring? The only wire on that harness was blue/red, And it's the signal for the relay. Edited February 28, 2010 by loy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daphur280 Posted February 28, 2010 Author Share Posted February 28, 2010 (edited) So how about my unanswered questions? Do you have a multimeter? Also was this an entire swap and running when removed? Led will go off while cranking. What did you change to your fuel pump wiring? The only wire on that harness was blue/red, And it's the signal for the relay. Sorry, the answer is no, I do not have one, it was very foolish of me to get heavily involved in the automotive field without investing in one. Simple fact for me is I'm not good at using one, so I've tended to avoid it. All I have is a test light and that has sufficed thus far. I dont have the cash to get one, because I'm saving what i do have to pay someone to fix this or for parts (if that becomes the issue). Also, thank you for answering the question/concern about the LED on the ECU while cranking, wasn't sure what was suppose to happen with that during cranking. The only thing I changed about the FUEL PUMP RELAY was, I connected the connectors directly to their source: Fuel pump (+); Ground, 12v constant; 12v switched (IGN ON). None of what I connected to the relay is going to the EFI harness or ECU. the blue/red wire i have isn't connected to anything on the end of the connector (by the EFI relay) But i do have the blue/red wire connected to IGN ON on the harness side (by the ECU connectors) I will upload pics of this later tonight to limit confusion about my setup... Edited February 28, 2010 by Daphur280 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daphur280 Posted March 2, 2010 Author Share Posted March 2, 2010 Help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daphur280 Posted March 3, 2010 Author Share Posted March 3, 2010 is no one interested in the $100? or is it not worth it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 I suspect you are missing more than just spark. With all of the attempted starting you are doing, if the injectors were indeed firing, the spark plugs should be full of unburned gas. Is that the case? If not, I'm still leaning to the ECU being "off" while cranking. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetleaf Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 Go buy a DVOM. You can get a decent one for cheap. That is not the place to save money. You need one to properly install and diagnose wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daphur280 Posted March 4, 2010 Author Share Posted March 4, 2010 problem is i dont know how to use it properly, I've been taught several times and just cant retain the skill... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loy Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 It's not hard to relearn. Anyways, if you are sure that everything is connected correctly then it might be time to start looking at components. Check that your distributor is sending a signal to ecu and what not. Here's an ecu pinout diagram. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/51518-look-what-i-found-83-280zxt-wiring-diagram-with-ecu-pinout/page__view__findpost__p__456420 Here's a multimeter how to http://mechatronics.mech.northwestern.edu/design_ref/tools/multimeter.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daphur280 Posted March 6, 2010 Author Share Posted March 6, 2010 Also I need to know if the ecu green light stays on through cranking, I'm getting feedback for both that is suppose to stay on, and that it is not suppose to stay on... so which is it??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loy Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 (edited) So how about my unanswered questions? Do you have a multimeter? Also was this an entire swap and running when removed? Led will go off while cranking. What did you change to your fuel pump wiring? The only wire on that harness was blue/red, And it's the signal for the relay. See post 31. Edited March 6, 2010 by loy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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