eugene Posted August 9, 2001 Share Posted August 9, 2001 I am trying to collect everything I need for my conversion before I disable my spare car for lord knows how long. My 75 280 is getting a stock 350 with 700R4 per JTR. Just trying to iron out some specifics. 1: What type of fittings do I need to make trans cooler lines for the Camaro Aluminum/Plastic radiator? It looks like I could just use 3/8 NPT hose barbs on the trans side, but at the radiator the fittings have some sort of flared fitting? 2: Bought a great Holley book by Dave Emanuel on Amazon, everything I needed to know except fuel pressure requirements. JTR says use a slightly higher pressure. Would 10 to 14 psi be adequate? Summit has a 14 psi, 110 gph pump with regulator for 90 bucks! 3: Used the search string to find info on 700R4 TV cable adjustment, still not really clear. Most people say let a trans shop handle it, but I'd rather learn how to do it myself. Can anyone recommend a good source for this info? Read some pretty nasty stuff can happen if the cable is out of whack! Sorry, that's a lot of questions, but I really want to do it right the first time, any help would be greatly appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 9, 2001 Share Posted August 9, 2001 Jason, on a carbed car, that pump will be fine. I'm using a Carter than is 10psi max and required no regulator and I'm not having fuel starvation problems on my stock chevy. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted August 9, 2001 Share Posted August 9, 2001 Jason, cannot imagine that a 700R4 TV cable is much different from a 200R4, so check out this tech article and hope it helps. http://gnttype.org/techarea/transmission/tvcable.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted August 9, 2001 Share Posted August 9, 2001 That's asking a lot of most needle and seats. I would get a pump with 8 psi max, more than likely 6 would be better for a stock motor. That pump is fine if you run a regulator. Q-jets are a little more tolerant of high fuel pressure than a Holley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eugene Posted August 10, 2001 Author Share Posted August 10, 2001 Thanks for the responses. Has anyone rigged up trans cooler lines? I know most of you guys (ya'll) use a manual trans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Luigi Posted August 10, 2001 Share Posted August 10, 2001 I will answer the TV cable question her 'cause I just redid mine last weekend w/ my tranny dud. Stomp pedal to floor. Adjust TV cable to have VERY little travel left. In fact the travel you feel will be the cable stretching. the point is the TV cable and throttle blades such reach the end of travel same time. Hope this helps. Noticed you are in ATL,ga. If you feel like looking at a completed z-car take a trip. I haven't driven it to ATL yet will soon. reply & we'll go beat on it. Warning it may break halfshfts. lewy d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted August 11, 2001 Share Posted August 11, 2001 Jason, In answer to the trans cooler question.... In my opinion, you would be better off using an after market cooler, mounted in front of the radiator (you can never have too much cooling for the transmission), but if you want use the in radiator cooler, then just get some trans cooler hard line from the parts store and bend it to shape. Grab the fittings from a junk yard and slide them on to the lines and then flare the lines on each side. If you don't own a flaring tool, get one from Summit or a good quality supplier (the ones at the chain parts stores are crappy...made in Taiwan or China...they are very poor quality and you won't be happy). You can expect to pay about $30 - $40 for a good set, as opposed to the $8 at Pep Boys or NAPA. Make sure you check which side is out and which is in on the transmission. I think top is out . Good luck with your project. As for the TV cable hookup...a good trick shown to me by Gene at AutoRite transmissions in Burbank CA (He has had articles issued in the hot rod magazines), was to put a spring on the cable, forward of where it mounts to the carb. This increases the shift point. Works great!! I used this with my 200R4, but it should also work on the 700R4. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted August 11, 2001 Share Posted August 11, 2001 "As for the TV cable hookup...a good trick shown to me by Gene at AutoRite transmissions in Burbank CA (He has had articles issued in the hot rod magazines), was to put a spring on the cable, forward of where it mounts to the carb. This increases the shift point." Can you explain further? a spring on the cable? how is this different from adjusting it one notch tighter/shorter? Do you mean like a throttle spring....thanks PS noone explained how to set minimum TV cable. The above adjustments hold/work AS LONG AS when you just start rolling with minimum throttle when it shifts out of first FLOOR IT, if it doesn't downshift your TV cable is too loose/slack and you don't have enough pump pressure. Tighten it a notch or 2 and retry....you should ALWAYS have minimum TV. Beware not all carbs give proper travel/swing arc for TV cable so shifts can be funky (ala qjet etc..) with only low throttle or high throttle shifts correct.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted August 11, 2001 Share Posted August 11, 2001 Ross, The spring goes on (around) the cable, forward of the connection to the carb, so that when you press the gas pedal, the spring collapses a little before the cable begins to pull. As for the amount of travel on the carb linkage, you can make a bracket with the appropriate amount of travel, or just buy the correct linkage. PAW or Summit carry them. The correct adjustment is made by connecting everything and holding down the lock mechanism on the TV cable, then turn the throttle linkage to WOT, then locking the mechanism. When you then release the throttle, the cable should remain somewhat taught. If not then the linkage isn't providing the correct ratio. The spring just lets the revs climb a bit higher before the TV cable begins to pull, thereby increasing the shift point. If you have a shift kit, then the spring is moot. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Georgia Flash Posted November 18, 2005 Share Posted November 18, 2005 Hi folks, Well after about a month or so of driving my Z around the block and so forth I have decided to do the unthinkable. Yes, I am going to pull the engine and transmission this weekend. The main reason for my insanity is that I have decided to get rid of the junkyard torque converter in favor of a unit from TCI. I will also tidy up a bit under the hood as far as my wiring goes. Some of it is still too uncomfortably close to the passenger side header for my sanity. Having the engine out of the way will give me plenty of room to correct the wiring issues as well as allow me to possibly fabricate a heat shield for my brake and fuel lines. While I have my engine and transmission out I also want to make doubly sure that I have everything in order like my transmission lines going to the right fittings on the JTR radiator. I thought that I read somewhere in the JTR manual about what line went where on the radiator when I hooked them up the first time. However, I have looked through my notes and read the JTR manual and I cannot find any reference to which connection is the in line and which is the out line. Finally my question: I did a search and came up with one thread that briefly mentions that the top fitting may be the out fitting. Does anyone know for sure? I also need to make sure that my heater hoses are routed correctly. Oh for those who do not know I have a 76 280 with a Chevy 350, 700R4 Transmission, Taurus two speed electric fan and JTR radiator. Thanks in advance to any help that I may receive on this inquiry. Safety Lesson: Beware of the Mr. Gasket glass inline filter. A couple of days ago I decided that I would drive the Z on its longest journey to date with the 350. I had planned on driving it to work some 45 miles away to show the people that yes, I really do have the car running now and it really does have the V8 installed. Anyways, I cranked the engine and went back inside while the car warmed up. It seemed to be doing fine. I could hear the glass packs rumbling through the walls of my house as I finished off my cup of coffee. When I went back outside to leave, I was horrified to see what looked like tons of gasoline running from under the car in the engine bay! There was a long trail of gas running down my driveway and into the street! I shut the car down immediately and raised the hood. One of my earliest biggest fears had come to fruition. The Mr. Gasket glass filter had somehow loosened (unscrewed on one end) allowing massive amounts of fuel to be pumped onto my hot intake manifold. The gas was in puddles and bubbling as it sat on the hot manifold. Needless to say, the folks at work did not see the Z that day. I pushed it back into the garage and drove the truck to work. Folks big lesson learned here for sure. I shudder to think of what might have happened if I would have made it onto the highway and the filter would have let loose. I have replaced the three-piece filter with a solid metal stock type filter from Napa. Again thanks for the help that I know I will recieve:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A. G. Olphart Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 If you crank/start the engine with the cooler lines off at the radiator, they will tell you which is pressure. There may be some small advantage to hooking the pressure side to the top fitting; since the hot water enters from the top of the tank, the bottom of the radiator may be slightly cooler, but not by much in a cross flow radiator. I'd just hook them whichever way is easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 In my experience on the carb setting, I would not go beyond 7PSI. I had many problems will flooding by doing so. It likes 6 PSI all day but 7 is doable without any problems. Also I like the return regulator system much better than dead head. More work but better setup IMHO. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Georgia Flash Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 Update on the transmission hookup. I called the folks at JTR and the fellow told me that he did not think it mattered which line went where on the radiator. I told him that 700R4 transmission sites specifically state that the bottom fitting on the transmission is the out line to the cooler and the top fitting is the return line so it should matter where they hookup…right? I called Bowtie Overdrives and the person there said that on a side tank radiator, which is what I have from JTR, it does matter where the lines are hooked up. They said to run top-to-top and bottom-to-bottom. Meaning that the top line or return line on the transmission should run to the top fitting on the radiator and the bottom or out line should run to the bottom fitting on the radiator. They also went on to say that on radiators where the cooling lines hook at the bottom that it does not matter which line goes where. Go figure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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