How much boost on my setup?

[rnye]

So I just picked up BayareaZT's 240Z and was wondering what ya'll think about boost.

 

The Profec is acting up so I am replacing it this week with a new EBC along with cleaning up some of the wiring. Here is the mod list - how much boost do you thihnk I can safely run - 15psi?

 

Specs:

• L28et, P90 Head

• Stage III T3/T04B .57 trim .63 a/r turbo

• SDS EM3-F

• Profec B

• Magnecor Spark Plug Wires

• GM Alternator

• 15 Circuit Painless Wiring kit w/Deutch connectors

• Custom Fuel Rail w/420cc Injectors, Bosch style connectors

• Stainless Steel Fuel lines

• Malpassi Adjustable FPR

• Walbro Fuel Pump

• Scottie GNZ DP

• 3" Exhaust w/Dynomaxx Muffler

• NPR IC

• Blitz DD BOV

• 60mm Throttle Body

• T5 Tranny w/Mustang Shifter

• New ACT Clutch and Pressure Plate

• Stainless Steel Clutch line

• 3.70 LSD

• RT Diff Mount

• Toyota S12 4 Piston Calipers

• Stainless Steel Brake Lines

• ATE Super Blue Fluid

• Lowered (unknown lowering springs)

• Front and Rear Sway Bars

 

Thanks

Edited April 11, 2010 by rnye

[pcakes55]

Kind of a debatable question. It's all dependant on your tune, how long you want it to last, and your power goals. (in that order)But 15psi is not farfetched, at all. I say go for it (but get it tuned!).

[e_racer1999]

^Agreed. But 15 psi looks doable. What's your power goal? 350 crank?

[rnye]

^Agreed. But 15 psi looks doable. What's your power goal? 350 crank?

 

I'm not sure yet. Its setup nicely and pulls hard at 10-11psi but I want 300rwhp. Trying to clean it up a bit and am forming a parts/ to do list.

 

There is a clunk from the rear end when I shift hard/quickly or let off quick - I daily a Honda S2000 so its hard to tell if something is wrong or if the driveline slack is normal.

Edited April 12, 2010 by rnye

[cockerstar]

What are you running to keep the intake temps down?

[LoneStarS30Z]

I have a very very very similar set up on my Z and mine see's 15psi low, 18psi high and the car was tuned to run rich, so even on the high setting my o2 sensor never gets near stoich, much less lean.

 

Also, and someone PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong, but the little SDS control thingy has a reading for injector duty cycle. Its says "DUTY" and has a number next to it. You will have to scroll through the readings to get to it. Give the car a couple of hard pulls and have someone read the number off to you when build boost in the higher RPMs. That'll give you a decent idea how hard your injectors are working at said number of boost.

 

Once again, if I'm wrong someone correct me, because all along I've thought the "DUTY" reading referred to injector duty cycle. I'll feel like a dummy if I'm wrong lol.

 

 

Also I took have a 3.70 rear end and my mine clunks too, so I can only assume its driveline slack.

Edited April 13, 2010 by xevenskyline

[zack_280]

You might want to replace your diff mount to get rid of that clunk. I had one go out on my '70 during a launch at an autox. The result was both embarrassing and damaging. It was doing exactly what yours was doing. The part is cheap and the labor is pretty straight forward.

 

By the way, I have an '07 S2000. I'm currently trying to sell it, though. Need to make room for the '73 L28ET. I have the Walbro pump, but it was screaming so I put a carter pump outside of the tank and relocated the walbro to the firewall. When I first turned it on I thought the Walbro wasn't working b/c it was so quiet. Unfortunately during my test drive my car completely died and has no spark. I am currently troubleshooting that. The PO wasn't the best at wiring.

[JSM]

He has the rt diff mount. Check the mb fittings.

[cygnusx1]

In my 280Z Turbo, I have changed: diff, trans, clutch, engine, stock diff mount, RT Mount, axles, rear bearings, diff guts, trans mount, motor mounts, suspension, bushings......and have never been able to completely rid the clunk. It has improved but not eliminated.  My diff lash settings are within factory spec.  Don't dwell too much on the clunk.  Just make sure all the bolts are tight and the mounts are good.  Funny thing is that my newly built N/A 240Z has ZERO clunk! ???  

 

 

 

 

I think you could run 15-20 psi depending on engine management and intake charge cooling.  

 

 

[rnye]

Thanks for the replies guys.

 

The car is running very well and Im getting used to driving it. I have probably put 500 miles on it in the last couple weeks expecting something to break, but thankfully all is well! At stock boost the car feels great. Fast, predicatble, well tuned. At 10-12psi its a little edgy so I've been running it a little richer, but man it RIPS! Im ready to get the car ready for a good stock/low/high tunes. Ideally power goals are, of course, as much as I get can at the push of a button when a smug 335i or Vette driver wants to play. Seriously though, I'd like a reliable Z that I can take to autocrosses, car meets and maybe work once in a while. These cars have SO much character and potential and I want mine to be a good example to others and a pleasent ownership experience for myself. I consider this one a keeper (NO RUST, srs.) - so I plan on using GOOD high end parts over time, but want to ensure its reliable along the way. I have no problem running $1500 worth of gauges but think its silly to put that kind of money into something so trivial so early in the game. Soooo...

 

Heat soak is definitely an issue - the same side intake/exhaust still gets me - so a turbo blanket and heat wrap for the DP is coming. Also the boost controller is acting up so a new one is on the way as well.

 

I think a couple more immediate to dos will include a bigger intercooler and radiator (even if the IC is an Ebay cheapo). I love the look and a lot of the fins on the NPR (small) have taken a beating. A new radiator with dual fans is in order as well (the OEM looks dated and safe side cooling mods are important IMO).

 

As for the diff - its a shame to hear that the clunk is 'normal' - I still haven't launched the car and even feel bad shifting aggressively. Makes it hard to drive the car the way it 'should be'. I have to get under it and figure out whats going on - it just doesn't feel right and I don't want to end up stranded or having to baby it everywhere.

 

I have been ordering a lot of parts over the last week and Im relearning these cars and assembling an extgensive parts list/direction for the car. Any inputs/suggestions as to what would improve the setup (or things I may have overlooked/should look into) before dyno tuning is appreciated.

 

Anyway, I'll be around with updates, pics, etc over time. I guess I should make this an intro thread! LOL

 

Oh and who doesn't like pictures!?

Edited April 18, 2010 by rnye

[LoneStarS30Z]

You sound like me when I first got my Z!!!

 

A turbo blanket is a very good investment, I got a DEI turbo blanket slightly used and I did notice a faster spool up, but it didn't change my under hood temps by very much. Don't know if you've ever worked with heat wrap stuff before, but for god's sake wear gloves and long sleeves, your skin will thank you later.

 

As for upgrades hmmmm, you're very close to how I am in my needs. I gotta get a better radiator, I don't like seeing my temps rise in traffic. Don't know what gauges if any you have, but some are pretty important. I'd say atleast a wideband o2 gauge, oil pressure and DEFINITELY water temp gauge. Lastly get it dyno tuned, I'd like to hear what kind of gains you get as I definitely need to beef up my tune to and we seem to be quite similar in terms of engine mods. Are you sure your Profec B is acting up? At first I thought mine was too, but is was just doing its job of keeping me from over boosting the pre-selected setting. Nothing a turn of the knob didn't fix.

 

Get more pics man! Honestly I was a bit jealous that I bought mine for a grand more than you and yours turned up for sale maybe 2 weeks after I bought mine.

Edited April 18, 2010 by xevenskyline

[rnye]

I seriously was NOT in the market for a car - I just like to surf forums/craigslist/etc. I got lucky when I found this and I HAD to have it. I had a '71 about 6-7 years ago that had a bent frame rail and never reached its potential. When I saw how truely rust free this car was I couldn't walk away. I let a very nicely built L28ET'd 240Z pass by in late 05 out in Austin and I told myself that it wouldn't happen again. I'm lucky to have it and it WILL be built correctly and taken care of!

 

Thanks for the advice. I think I am going to go ahead and spring for some $$ gauges right away and go from there. Party in the cockpit!

[LoneStarS30Z]

Sounds good, the stock 35+ year old gauges super garbage, so new gauges are a great ad on, and the best part is our cars have perfect mounting holes.

[cygnusx1]

I wouldn't say the clunk is normal...I am saying that I tried for many years with somewhat limited budgets to get rid of it in my 280Z and I still have it enough to be annoying sometimes.  My 240Z has ZERO clunk...go figure.  Keep looking for it.  99% of the time it's a bad mount.  Even the car magazines complained about drivetrain clunking back in the 70's when they tested the Z's.