jacob80 Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 (edited) Hey guys, Well, I've just installed my new clutch, Ron Tyler mount, VLSD R200, CV axles, modern motorsports CV axle adapters, and 27 spline 280z stub axles. Everything came together great! Last week, I took it out for a test drive and noticed a couple things. Here is the verdict: 1. There seems to be a constant sound that sounds like a small air leak (obviously not an air leak) that seems to be coming from the rear end, I may be wrong though. This sound does not sound abnormal however, but was not present previously. Perhaps it is from the new differential and mount. The sound seems to become less and less as I slow down, as well. 2. The rear drum brakes seem to be dragging inconsistently. How do I adjust them? I thought last time I did this that all you do is pull the e-brake a bunch of times and it will adjust itself. Should I just tweak the cylinder in a little bit to where they are just not dragging? 3. This is my main concern. There seems to be a constant "tick tick tick" coming from the rear. I want to say that something may not be tight, but I'm not sure. What is the best way to approach this? I'm thinking about pulling the CV joints on the stub axle side and trying to tighten the stub axle nuts even more and then tighten up the CV bolts some more to the modern motorsports adapters. I did shorten the CV shafts as described by modern motorsports, so perhaps something just is loose cause the wheels to be a little wobbly. Any help is appreciated, this is my very first drivetrain upgrade, so bare with me! Thanks guys!! UPDATE-VIDEO LINK: Edited April 20, 2010 by jacob80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bone028 Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 Well, I cant answer 1 or 3, but with 2, rear brakes dragging...take off your drums, hit the adjusters with a lot of brake cleaner fluid, and adjust them out. Just push down/up on them with a flat head screw driver to move the shoes away from the drum. I believe the way I did it was I backed the shoes off the drum enough to the point that by hand, a forceful spin of each wheel/tire caused about 1 full revolution. They *should* adjust back to the proper distance after you use your parking brake a few times. I believe the factory setting should be 3 clicks of the parking brake lever to properly engage the parking brake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted April 19, 2010 Author Share Posted April 19, 2010 Okay, cool, I'll try that. I also forgot to mention that the interior is out of the car, so some noises that I am listing here may be normal but are only evident because I have the interior out. I've also removed all undercoating as well and painted the bottom of the car with POR-15 paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted April 20, 2010 Author Share Posted April 20, 2010 I've just added a couple videos that will help explain what is going on and my newest discovery. Hopefully I just have something out of order and no serious damage! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 (edited) It looks to me like the CV shafts are pushing out on the end caps. The CV cage looks correctly shortened to me. Did you grind off the tips of the CV shafts any when you had it apart? How low is your car? I've read that extremely low cars exaggerate the problem. Some guys just remove the end caps, fill the MM adapters with grease and put a little sealant around the flange to seal it up. You might also want to remove your spring and cycle the suspension to check for binding. Side load on the differential will surely shorten its life. I'm going to take it one step further and install rear camber bushings to push the rear out a little farther. I hope this helps. Edited April 20, 2010 by rossman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted April 20, 2010 Author Share Posted April 20, 2010 The car is at stock height, not lowered. Are you saying that the caps being mangled like this is actually a normal behaivor? Could this be causing the ticking noise I'm hearing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted April 20, 2010 Author Share Posted April 20, 2010 Also, when I installed the CV shafts, the caps did pop off a couple of times from me trying to wedge them behind the adapters so I could bolt them up. Its almost as if the wheel side of the shafts are maxed out when you install them, which makes me think how much room it even has (or lack there of) to contract/extend. Little concerned, hopefully you guys can help me out. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 The car is at stock height, not lowered. Are you saying that the caps being mangled like this is actually a normal behaivor? Could this be causing the ticking noise I'm hearing? I don't think it's the norm but I have read that some people had to remove the caps to get every bit of room. I don't have any personal experience with it. I would guess it could make some sort of noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 Also, you might want to check out these threads. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=66719 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/59330-300zxt-cv-conversion-problem-on-a-72-240z/page__hl__z31%20cv%20shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted April 20, 2010 Author Share Posted April 20, 2010 Looks like I will be doing this tonight: Well, I grinded off about 5mm off the end of the CV and that looks like all I will need. Dan was right, a little grinding here and there and it fits without a problem, at least on my setup. I took about 4mm off the stub axle (couple thread still showing on the nut) and 5mm off the CV (end cap removed). Just to make sure everything was going to be okay, I took the spring out and moved the suspension through its travel. You get the most binding from the CV to the axle at full droop, not compression. A little gasket sealer on the companion flange to the CV and it's a done deal. The picture with the nut in between the outer CV and the companion flange is the suspension on the end stop (full compression). You can see gap between the stub axle and the CV actualy get parallel, thus creating an even larger gap. It would be nice to have known about this before I actually put everything together and tried it. I wonder how many people have success just slapping everything together and having no problems? Could this be the cause of my ticking sound I'm getting?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted April 21, 2010 Author Share Posted April 21, 2010 Okay, well I've made yet another discovery. Somehow, the threads on my passenger side stub axle got messed up, bad. Lets just say, there are no threads, but somehow the nut was still holding on. Luckily, I have an extra set of 280z stub axles, so I will be taking the old one and having them transfer the bearing and wheel studs because the previous owner installed longer ARP studs that do not work with my wheels. The nut on that stub axle looks okay, but I will double check before I reinstall and will probably end up making another video. I also ground down the end of the CV axle to make clearance for the cap. I did the same thing to the stub axle, as well, taking of 4mm of the threads. Hopefully I will have allowed enough clearance so that I can keep my caps on and perhaps the ticking noise will have gone away. I will keep you guys updated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 Don't reuse the nut. Buy some of these. Buy an extra one for next time also. http://www.courtesyparts.com/lock-nut-for-rear-axle-280zx-turbo-1982-1983-p-228854.html?cPath=7002_7768& Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted April 21, 2010 Author Share Posted April 21, 2010 Really? These are brand new nuts from modern motorsports, only went around the block with them. You still think I should replace them? For what reason? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 If the threads on the axel are gone, the threads on the nut will be boogered up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted April 21, 2010 Author Share Posted April 21, 2010 Perhaps, yes. Maybe they have these nuts at my local Nissan dealership, I'll give them a call. Also, you linked me to the nuts for a 280zx Turbo. Will these work for these 280z 27 spline stub axles? Is there a difference?? I see that there is a different nut available for the non-turbo 280zx as well.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted April 21, 2010 Author Share Posted April 21, 2010 Also, is the part number for this the SKU number (43262-L28ET)? If not, what is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 The ones I linked are the ones you need. They are lock nuts, don't have to peen these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted April 21, 2010 Author Share Posted April 21, 2010 Okay, thanks. Do you know the Nissan part number? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kj280z Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 jacob80 - Did you ever finally get all the issues resolved? I'm curious to hear if you ever resolved all the issues... I'm planning to install these CV's shortly (if I could ever find a set) and would like to know all the gotcha's ahead of time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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