SATAN Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 (edited) I performed the 6 clutch mod on my 88 turbo CLSD. I added the appropriate number of shims to equal roughly 70-75lbs of break away. I added redline fluid (cant remember which kind right now). Situation: Severe clunking in the rear end. Clunking is only while mildly accelerating and turning at the same time. Time on the diff since the swap is roughly 100 miles. Driving straight the diff acts normal. Attempts to fix: I have pulled down the differential and tore it all the way down to the clutches to inspect it. Upon inspection there was no wear at all. I inspected all clutch disks on both sides, entire ring gear and entire pinion shaft, along with anything else that was apart. No wear at all. I have also swapped out CV shafts to different units with no change. I also mounted a camera on the bottom of the car to film the rear end to see if control arm's were clanging around or something. The vid showed nothing other than suspension behaving normally. I have had people tell me that the sound is normal for the mod performed. I wish that were true however, it is extremely violent and I am having a hard time believing it is normal. But again, I cannot find any wear. The car is a 1985 300zx with solid crossmember mounts and solid diff mount. This probably amplifies the noise. Here is a vid of me driving the car. You can tell I try to take it easy around the first turn to avoid clunking. But when I have to turn around you can hear it very well. It worries me... http://www.youtube.com/user/satanz31 Basically, I am just looking for some input from people who have performed this mod. Does that sound along the lines of normal, or is my intuition correct in feeling like something is terribly wrong. Edited April 21, 2010 by SATAN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 Did you add any friction modifier to the diff fluid? Even if diff fluid instructions say that it's not necessary, add it anyway. Nigel '73 240ZT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cannonball55 Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 I went thru the same thing. I added 2 of the 7oz. bottles of limited slip additive and it stopped. It used to sound like a a hammer was pounding inside my diff when I turned corners at slow speed and after the additive its silent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cannonball55 Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 Oh I didn't mention I have the same setup. 89 300zx turbo r200 clsd. I did the 6 clutch mod and shimmed it to about 90 ft. lbs. breakaway (bit tight but figured I'd need it with an LS3). Hope that helps so you know we're comparing apples with apples. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 Not to hijack this thread, but are you supposed to fill the differential until it starts coming out and thats when you know its full? Also, what fluid is supposed to be used in the CLSD vs VLSD R200 rear ends? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cannonball55 Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 Yes its full when it pours out of the upper plug (not the lower drain one) roughly middle of the diff cover slightly on the left side. I used 80/90 weight synthetic in my diff some people use thicker. I don't know anything about the vlsd I only have exp. with the clutch style ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SATAN Posted April 20, 2010 Author Share Posted April 20, 2010 Yes its full when it pours out of the upper plug (not the lower drain one) roughly middle of the diff cover slightly on the left side. I used 80/90 weight synthetic in my diff some people use thicker. I don't know anything about the vlsd I only have exp. with the clutch style ones. VLSD uses standard gear oil just like the normal open differential. The viscous coupling inside is sealed with it's own fluid inside of itself. Thank you guys for the suggestions on the friction modifier. I have some on the way. That is also what others have been telling me. So the consensus then IS that the sound IS normal until you add the friction modifier? Also, Cannonball55- If that is a true 89 turbo (Not a conversion), hang on to it. They made just over 200 of the 89 turbo's, they are VERY rare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 Thank you guys for the suggestions on the friction modifier. I have some on the way. That is also what others have been telling me. So the consensus then IS that the sound IS normal until you add the friction modifier? If it sounds like the ass end of the car is going to fall out and be laying in the street behind as you roll to a stop, then yeah, that's normal aggressive clutch chatter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 Yep sounds just like my r200 with the 6 clutch mode and I also shimmed mine for around 70-75 ft/lbs. I added one tube of additive maybe ill add another Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SATAN Posted April 20, 2010 Author Share Posted April 20, 2010 If it sounds like the ass end of the car is going to fall out and be laying in the street behind as you roll to a stop, then yeah, that's normal aggressive clutch chatter. LOL, ok. I was freaking out. Glad to know it is normal. I will add the friction modifier and hope that it helps it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SATAN Posted April 21, 2010 Author Share Posted April 21, 2010 LOL, ok. I was freaking out. Glad to know it is normal. I will add the friction modifier and hope that it helps it out. Ok, one more question. I am using the Red Line shock proof in my LSD. I was just told that this is a no no. That I should be using 80/90w with LSD additive. On that note, should it be synthetic or conventional? I just want to get the best performance out of this thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 Pretty much any gear oil is going to be OK. I like SWEPCO 201 and it requires little or no LSD additive, depending on how tight you have it shimmed. Any quality gear oil should be fine and if you want to spend a little more on Amsoil, Redline, SWEPCO, etc. it's probably not going to hurt anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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