Loss of Air Flow Shop Compressor Regulator?

[zgeezer]

This is my set up: 1 55 Gal 240Volt Husky vertical Air Compressor.

1 inline ball valve

1 Husky air filter/water separator

1 Husky air regulator.

Connector.

 

The above is the order in which the parts are installed on the pressure line from the 55 Gal tank.

 

Pressure at 55 gal tank is 145 psi.

Pressure set at regulator is 95 psi.

 

The problem is the is inadequate airflow out of the regulator to run any of my air tools for more than about 3 seconds. I thought I had a blocked air line so I connected a pneumatic drill directly to the regulator and hit the button. The drill powered up immediately and then slowed down almost to a stop.

 

The psi gauge on the regulator holds at 95 psi before any tools are actuated. When a tool is actuated the gauge dead drops to o psi: the tool also comes to a rest. When I release the tool's air button, the regulator gauge jumps right up to 95 psi.

 

I've replaced the regulator twice: this is the third unit and changing out the regulator with a new units has not solved the problem.

 

I removed both the regulator and the air filter/water separator and connected an air drill directly to the 55 gal tank. Delivered 145 # to the drill with no drop off.

 

Reconnected the drill on the other side of the air filter and, likewise, good pressure and power.

 

I've checked to make sure that the installation of both the air filter/water separator and regulator were correctly installed in that the air flow runs from the 55 gal tank to the inlet side of the air filter/water separator then to the inlet side of the regulator.

 

I don't think Home Depot's Husky brand would give me three defective pieces in a row. I'm sure I'm missing something, but what?

 

Help.

 

G:confused:

[hoov100]

Just remove the regulator. air tools require CFM rather then PSI if you catch my drift. a regulator is more for paint spray guns then anything. Put simply, the regulator is killing the total amount of air, that can pass through it.

Edited April 26, 2010 by hoov100

[Brad-ManQ45]

I use a simple filter/separator/regulator unit that looks like the Sharp one from HF w/no problems, and I have 1 for each of 3 drops. 2 in the garage and one in the basement workshop.

[proxlamus©]

I have the 60 gallon Husky compressor from The Home Depot, which regulator did you purchase?! Mine has a built in pressure gauge and a plastic adjusting knob from Husky. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xhf/R-100082550/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

 

 

That's a very bizarre problem you have. My compressor is set up this way: Compressor > Shut off ball valve > regulator > water separator > hose

 

I severely doubt that changing the regulator and water separator around will make much of a difference.. Have you called Husky's customer service?! I wouldn't recommend going to Home Depot and talking to a hardware associate, depends on the associate, but most won't have a clue.

 

1-888-HD-HUSKY

Edited April 26, 2010 by PrOxLaMuS©

[zgeezer]

Just remove the regulator. air tools require CFM rather then PSI if you catch my drift. a regulator is more for paint spray guns then anything. Put simply, the regulator is killing the total amount of air, that can pass through it.

 

Hoov, Most of my tools carry warnings limiting their use to something around 90 psi, but the air hammer really does the job at 145#. The easy and noisy way to massage clearance in the driveline tunnel.

 

G

[hoov100]

Hoov, Most of my tools carry warnings limiting their use to something around 90 psi, but the air hammer really does the job at 145#. The easy and noisy way to massage clearance in the driveline tunnel.

 

G

 

I run a strait line off my compressor tank to everything and have had no problem with any of my air tools, ever. I'm sure it wears them out faster, but I don't think you would notice the difference.even the nitrogen bottle at the track is set to 150psi.

Edited April 26, 2010 by hoov100

[Trevor]

Are you sure you didn't reverse the "IN" and "OUT" ports of the regulator(s)?

[proxlamus©]

yeehh thats a good idea.. reversing the in/out WILL cause that problem

[zgeezer]

Are you sure you didn't reverse the "IN" and "OUT" ports of the regulator(s)?

 

First thing I checked. No, the airflow follows the arrows.

 

g

[Tony D]

Are you setting the regulator to 95psi in use?

 

Adjusting a regulator is done when the airflow demand is actual. You have a cheap regulator, and you will have to set it this way, and likely it will 'creep' when there is a flow drop or increase. It may be undersized.

 

Running with a regulator is the right way to do it, running an air tool designed for 90psi at 145 not only wastes air, it wears out the tool, and can casue a potential explosion from overspeed. I have seen pneumatic rivet guns blow up when pressurized well above their recommended operating pressure (say 150 psi on a 90 psi recomendation.) Watch your air tool trackside on that TWO-STAGE regulator off the N2 bottle and see what it does when the first stage of the reg fails and you start pumping 1500psi through it...

 

Proper air system engineering dictates that storage is a higher pressure, regulated down for distribution for any number of reasons, and then usually at point of use there is another regulation point for even lower pressure. Storage in a 55 gallon tank is MORE CFM at 145 than it is at 90psi. If you have a leak in the distribution network, running 145psi to point of use will waste FAR more air than if that same hole/leak had 90psi available to it. Even the N2 tank at trackside has TWO regulators on it: dropping it from the high side from 3500 to a lower intermediate pressure which is internally fixed (Usually the upper range on the LP gauge), and then the larger twist-knob regulator portion that regulates that intermediate pressure down to point of use.

 

Run your air tools at higher then 90 psig, most of the time all you do is waste air. Mostly, all you do is waste air. Air hammer surface areais likely insignificant to have appreciably more 'impact' to the chisel at 145 -vs- 90, but it does cycle the hammer faster, meaning the BPM goes up and you cut faster. IF you actually measured the cutting rate and compared the linear rate between the two pressures against CFM consumed, likely it's marginally less efficient at a higher pressure or marginally more efficient. In the end the only concrete thing you will know is per time of use, at 145psig, you will use more air than same time of use at 90 psig.

 

Industry-Wide the impetus is to run the air line pressure at the lowest possible pressure to get the job done for lowest cost per CFM. Over compression of air has been a target by industries for over 10 years now, simply because Compressed Air is one of the highest cost utilities in a plant. I have seen air audits at pulp mills where after repairing air leaks, a 600HP compressor no longer ran. 600HP worth of air leaks! Hmmmm, figure $3450 per amp per month for electrical cost on a 4160V compressor, and that is roughly 60A of horsepower at that voltage level. What is that per month in electrical savings? From air leaks? Not to mention now that it doesn't run save for standby, the annual maintenance cost goes from $8450 per year in parts, to that same amount over four years (goes from 8,000 hours per year, to a rotated 2,000 hours per year of operation.)

 

I could go on-and-on!

 

Yeah, I work on compressors.