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Cylinder head warpage


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Im getting to be on the last leg of getting this motor finished at the machine shop.L24 block all finished up.Got a call from the shop about my E-88 head and he said it is slightly warped.Pretty much out of shape about 16 thous.He said he would be able to clean it up good to about 7-8 thous streightness.He asked me if the cam was bound up at all and it was not becuase the car ran when I tore it apart.

Is that acceptable when im just getting this cleaned up?

If i have shaved 2-3 thous off the deck on the block wich was done,then 7 thous off the head will i need to use a thicker head gasket?

Can I use a regular fel pro gasket at all?

Will I need to shim the cam towers?

How do you guys tell what the stock thickness is on an E-88 cylinder head?How can you measure how much has come off from stock?

Will I have valve clearence issues?

Will this cuase a large enough spike in compression to have to use high test fuel?

 

Any help would be awesome !thank you much.

Edited by tightywhitey185
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They can't straighten it? I have straightened a few of them, got them to under 5 thousanths warp before cutting. It is detailed in How To Modify Your Nissan/Datsun OHC, but i think it's in the How to Rebuild as well.

 

Definately don't settle for a warped head, it'll only cause you grief. Have them CC the chambers, cutting 30 thousanths off my unshrouded N42 dropped the chamber from 46cc to 42cc.

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They can't straighten it? I have straightened a few of them, got them to under 5 thousanths warp before cutting. It is detailed in How To Modify Your Nissan/Datsun OHC, but i think it's in the How to Rebuild as well.

 

Definately don't settle for a warped head, it'll only cause you grief. Have them CC the chambers, cutting 30 thousanths off my unshrouded N42 dropped the chamber from 46cc to 42cc.

He mentioned nothing about straightening the head.

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0.016" is a major warpage. If this guy is saying he can clean it up to 0.007-0.008", do the following:

 

1) Very calmly, go to his shop.

2) Get your head in your hands, and then ask "How much do I owe you for the service so far?"

3) Pay the man, and RUN AWAY TO A SHOP WHAT KNOWS THEIR STUFF!

 

Seriously, this guy does NOT know L-Heads and with his statement, I would NOT let him risk butchering my head into something totally unusable.

 

With 0.016", straightening would be preferrable before decking, and in either case the cam towers will have to come off to check the top surface for straightness as well. If he's asking about cam binding, he's trying to shortcut the job and not go through a cam tower removal, and is trying to just deck one side.

 

If you want this head, get it done correctly. It does NOT sound like your current 'machinist' knows proper procedures.

Get your head back, thank him for his evaluation, pay him for his 'inspection' and take it someplace else!

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The cam and the towers are off the head.I took them off before sending it off.He breifly mentioned the machining the top of the head too.If i ask this guy if he is machining the top should i go throuh with it?At ths point im tempted to just have him machine it becuase what other choice do I have?The short block is finished.Should I source another head?

Edited by tightywhitey185
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If we are talking about a stock head, it's a no brainer: get another one.

 

If we are talking about a $3000 custom head, I'd still run the hell away from the guy as he's likely to kill the head as fix it... No reputable shop with L-Head Experience would say they can only straighten it to 0.007"! That is 0.001" inside MAXIMUM ALLOWABLE TOLERANCE!

 

That means your block has to be DEAD FLAT NO DEVIATION WHATSOEVER.

 

Get what I'm saying about this guy? He's missing the big picture here, in an attempt to get the business. You will have to live with his shortcuts. I'd not go there, I'd go someplace else (if you want THIS head).

 

If you can get another head, that may be easier.

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