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Relocating Gas Filler


Guest Willieboy240z

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With my fuel cell it wasn't even possible - we tried. Most fuel cells fill in the middle - too sttep a slope to the filler unless you drop the cell so low it'll hit curbs when you back up icon_eek.gif IF you're going to the trouble to try this I strongly urge you to just put a cell in to start with. Consider having a custom unit made or modify a new aluminum cell instead. Move the filler to the back and go from there - coulda' woulda' shoulda' I'm afraid...

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Phil, this was done with the stock tank? I agree that it's pretty difficult to do the relocation with a fuel cell sitting up high, the gas tube just doesn't slope enough to let the gas flow in.

 

I had the crazy idea of cutting out one of the stock emblem areas behind the quarter window and using that as a filling location. Too much work for me now...

 

Owen

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Guest Big Phil

Owen,

I used the stock tank but I had planned on replacing it with a Fuel Safe fuel cell using a 45 degree fill connection. Since I changed the taillights I had to put it back on the side. I think mounting it high near the vent would be cool I thought about doing the same thing using a Dodge viper fuel door.

Phil

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Guest Anonymous

Phil, I recently got a hold of a nice CBR600 gas cap for pretty cheap, I noticed that you ended up changing from a rear mounted gas filler to a side mounted one. Could you please give us a couple pointers as to how you installed it, made it flush, and hooked it up to the gas tank (unless its just there for show)? Thanks

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Guest Big Phil

Hydra,

The gas cap is fully functional and I also got it off of a Honda CBR. Did you get the entire tank or just the cap? If you bought the entire tank it is alot easier to install because you can use the fuel cap mount from the tank. If you didn't get the tank, you will have to fabricate a mounting assembly and that would be a pain in the butt.

 

Step 1 : Fill tank with soapy water to force gas fumes out so tank dont go BOOM!!!!

 

Step 2: Separate fuel cap from tank by removing allen bolts (only 3 bolts actually hold cap in place)

 

Step 3: Using a cutoff wheel or saws all or air saw or hole saw, cut entire cap mounting assembly off tank. I used a hole saw that was a little larger then the fuel cap mount. Remember to cut vent line found inside the tank or the mount won't come off. Then grind off the excess material until the mount looks like a cup that the motorcycle cap fits into flush.

 

Step 4: Cut out old gas filler box

 

Step 5: Weld in a piece of steel grind weld flush with body

 

Step 6: Using a hole sax the same diameter as the fuel cap mount, cut hole in body.

 

Step 7: Place mount in hole, weld and grind smooth. A little bondo maybe necessary.

 

The mount's flange that connects to a stock fuel tank must be reduced I used a steel exhaust adapter that reduced the diameter from 2 1/2 to 2 inch. Then I connected the metal adapter to my fuel tank using flexible fuel resistant silcone hose.

 

The fuel mount also has a place to connect the gas tank vent line. I think that's it.

 

Phil

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Guest Big Phil

I relocated my gas door to behind my license plate and it wasn't to difficult. First you have to shave off the gas door. I just welding in a plate where the old gas door used to be. Then I relocated the opening on my fuel tank from the side to the top. Next I cut a hole in the floor of the trunk so I could access the new opening. Then I made a small metal box so the the stock gas cap would fit flush underneath the license plate frame. I cut a square hole under where the license plate is located and welded the box in. I mounted the factory gas filler into the box and connected the gas filler to the new fuel tank opening used flexible aircraft fuel hose.

 

If will post so pictures so you can check it out.

Phil

 

Mods on Big Phils 280z

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  • 3 weeks later...

Nope, the hatch will be fully functional. The fuel tube and gas cap assembly will have a "box" at the cap location that will have a flange on the top of it that will mate up to a flange underneath the door (this also holds the door on). With a thin foam gasket between the two, I should be able to keep and air (exhaust gas) out. This way when I open the hatch (pulling the new fuel door up with it), the tube (about 12" long coming directly from the fuel cell) will remain in position (with the cap) to seal the tank.

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I've received several queries pointing toward some confusion on how this filler still allows the hatch to be functional. Being I don't have and "completed project" photos yet, here is a drawing of how the filler appears with hatch partially open. The filler tube part remains fixed with the fuel cell, whilst the hatch with it's attached Bullitt door can be lifted off the cap enclosure, and still have the cell and cap remain sealed.

200112241277019270699623.jpg

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Finally finished the interior part of my fuel filler for my cell. Here is the assembly as seen when the hatch is opened up. Now the car is ready to paint (yeah, right, that's what I said before Hydra got me to thinking about this little project)

standard.jpg

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