jacob80 Posted June 11, 2010 Share Posted June 11, 2010 Hey guys! Currently, I'm running a hydraulic oil hose (yuck!) from my valve cover elbow fitting (stock) to my catch can (83 L28ET). Does anyone know where I can find a fitting or method in which I can convert over to an AN/stainless braided hose? Like this: Looking for a minimalistic look all around. Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted June 11, 2010 Share Posted June 11, 2010 Argh... Heat the area around the current fitting with a torch (propane or MAPP Gas if you please!) This will loosen the 'white sealant' to the point where you can unscrew the elbow. Tap for appropriate MS/ISO Straight or NPT size, and attach appropriate A/N Elbow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid240z Posted June 11, 2010 Share Posted June 11, 2010 (edited) Just as Tony described...It should come out looking like this: Edited June 11, 2010 by Hybrid240z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted June 11, 2010 Author Share Posted June 11, 2010 Wow, that engine bay is amazing! Will this bubble my powdercoating (heating)?? Must they be tapped to NPT threads?? No fittings that will screw right in that adapt to AN? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid240z Posted June 11, 2010 Share Posted June 11, 2010 That engine is in this Z. The car is simply amazing from top to bottom. I've seen it at the MSA shows. I think the owner may be a member of the forum. Nice guy, met him at one of the MSA shows a while ago. I think excessive heating will damage powdercoating. Maybe someone can chime in on ideas on how to get this done without damaging the powdercoating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted June 12, 2010 Share Posted June 12, 2010 You're Screwed. If you wanted A/N fittings in it, the time to do machining and heating was before it was powdercoated. You can try to heat it, or just horse it out of there. Or break it off with a hammer then machine it out on a mill or drill press. That may be possible. But the threads are very fine I'm sure some place for $200 they can machine you a custom adapter so you don't have to run a simple tap down the hole to get it to fit. If you want it without effort, you don't want it bad enough... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozconnection Posted June 12, 2010 Share Posted June 12, 2010 (edited) If you want it without effort, you don't want it bad enough... (Tony D) I'm gonna post this in my boy's room in big capital letters....he could be a state 100m sprint competitor. Nice cooling system mods too BTW. The original bottom half of the thermostat housing persists, with a sensor of some sort in it.....hmmmm, interesting Edited June 12, 2010 by ozconnection Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted June 12, 2010 Share Posted June 12, 2010 I have access to stainless fittings that screw straight into the standard L series rocker cover thread (and Nissan RB motors as they are the same) and can go to AN fitting. PM me if you want one, and in what AN size. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted June 12, 2010 Share Posted June 12, 2010 "But the threads are very fine I'm sure some place for $200 they can machine you a custom adapter so you don't have to run a simple tap down the hole to get it to fit." Apparently they exist in Oz...Queensland to be exact. And the cost, plus EMS shipping from down under is? Inquiring minds want to know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted June 12, 2010 Share Posted June 12, 2010 "But the threads are very fine I'm sure some place for $200 they can machine you a custom adapter so you don't have to run a simple tap down the hole to get it to fit." Apparently they exist in Oz...Queensland to be exact. And the cost, plus EMS shipping from down under is? Inquiring minds want to know. tell me what size AN fitting you'd like the rocker cover thread to go to and I'll tell you a price. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparky Posted June 12, 2010 Share Posted June 12, 2010 -8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted June 12, 2010 Share Posted June 12, 2010 $50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted June 13, 2010 Share Posted June 13, 2010 Stock Hose is a -10, actually, don't undersize it! Matter of fact, lower and upper are initially 15mm (-10) and the high vacuum unit that goes under the manifold transitions to 12mm (-8) at the manifold PCV Valve proper. I would say you should probably keep the low vacuum (air filter restriction at WOT) hose at -10 size (15mm, 5/8") That $50, is that shipped, or the part itself. What of the -10 part? Thanks for the feedback so far. Looks like I was over by about $100. Then again, I was thinking of stainless steel fab, and not aluminum... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted June 13, 2010 Share Posted June 13, 2010 (edited) Stainless in that size could be done for a little extra. I would get the stainless fitting with the rocker cover thread, get some weld-on stainless UN -10 nipples, then tig weld the two together. The tig weld would be on the rocker side of the fitting so you wouldn't see it anyway. It would be best to do a heap of them at a time to keep costs down. I know alloy and steel weld-on nipples are about $15 AUD in -10 size, but stainless steel ones are $25 AUD so much more expensive. But thats the price you pay for a fitting of that quality that will never deteriorate. Rocker thread + $25 -10 weld on fitting + about 20mins labour per fitting. $50 AUD is $42 USD atm Maybe $50-55 USD for full stainless?? It would cost $5-10 to send them to you individually?? Unless you got a heap sent to one person to distribute them once over there. Oh, and I have removed two factory elbows from the rocker cover by inserting a socket extension or breaker bar inside the horizontal section of the factory fitting to get some torque and just unscrewed it. They didn't come out easy but the fittings are strong and torque is your friend. Edited June 13, 2010 by RB30X Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted June 13, 2010 Share Posted June 13, 2010 Actually, I was just talking to one of my fitters and if we can tap our own NPT -10 threads we could do it much cheaper and eliminate welding all together. I'll do some investigationing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted June 13, 2010 Share Posted June 13, 2010 Check out Travelex as well, that exchange rate you are giving is a heluva lot better than it was when I was in Sydney last month! Cheers, thanks much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 (edited) Check out Travelex as well, that exchange rate you are giving is a heluva lot better than it was when I was in Sydney last month! Cheers, thanks much. Just playing around on the lathe tonight. Trying to cut a UN thread on the dodgey lathe we have is going to be fun. I'm running with the -8 size as it's only slightly smaller in bore diameter than the standard fitting, plus -10 elbows look massive coming out of an L series rocker cover. The left hand side of the stainless fitting in the forground is the rocker cover thread, and the right side is obvioulsy trying to replicate the dash fitting without a thread cut yet. Edited June 14, 2010 by RB30X Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 Here is the finished product. Quite straight foward really. Factory rocker cover thread into AN-8. I might see if -10 can be done too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 That elbow on the hose is a good idea, it lets people position the hose WHEREVER and negates the need to use an O-Ringed positionable elbow in the valve cover itself. While the cost of a hose-elbow is higher than a straight fitting, I'm sure the Earl's fitting is cheaper (and doesn't have a weld in it) that the other option. Well thought out solution. I really got to get the Milacron hooked up at the house. Bridgeport too... One day I will have time, at least that's what I keep telling myself! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted June 16, 2010 Share Posted June 16, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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