cothran Posted June 13, 2010 Share Posted June 13, 2010 I want to get some opinions before I start throwing money at this. Let me give you the rundown of exactly what happened; sorry in advance if this is long. Last Wednesday I pulled out of my parking garage and turned onto the main street. I pulled up behind another car and I *think* I stalled it. This is the only part I can't remember accurately, whether I stalled it or it shut off itself. Anyhow, I had to crank it for like 10 seconds before it started again, and after it started I noticed that the exhaust wasn't nearly as loud as it was before – usually there's a drone between 1500 and 2200 rpms. That was the first clue that something was weird. It seemed to be running fine though. So I got on the freeway and in third gear I tried to accelerate to get in the next lane but the engine suddenly cut out. I was able to restart it right away, but it cut out again about a minute later and again I was able to start it while driving. Finally about a mile later it shut off and I coasted to the shoulder where it refused to start. One of the accident avoidance trucks with the arrows pulled up about 20 minutes later and tried to help me get it started. During this time the starter would spin but nothing would happen. My flywheel normally grinds every now and then, but this whole time it didn't grind at all, which again was weird. I thought maybe the starter or flywheel teeth were completely gone, causing the engine to not turn over, but the dude said the crank was turning over. He pulled a sparkplug and inserted a srewdriver to make sure it was getting spark. This time it started up and stayed running until I shut it off. He thought maybe my fuel gauge was wrong and I just needed gas. I knew my gauge worked though - it said I had 1/2 a tank. He put a gallon in anyway and it started again but died. I tried once more though and it started and stayed running. I was able to drive up to the next exit and find a gas station. Shut the car off, filled up, she started right up again and I was able to drive it 10 miles to my brother-in-law's house. I didn't want to try to make it all the way home by myself, but unfortunately he wasn't home. So back out to the car, it starts right up again and I decide it must be fine now and I try to drive it the remaining 15 miles home. About 1/2 mile down the road it dies. Won't restart. Btw, it was only about 60 degrees out. The highway guy mentioned vapor lock, but I've driven it on 90 degree days and it's been fine. So I was able to get it started again by just waiting a few minutes and cranking it for a while. It went about 2 blocks and died again, not to be restarted. I tried for 20 minutes to get it going, but in the end hiked back up to my bro-in-law's house to call a tow truck. He showed up shortly and we called the tow and went down to wait for it. I tried to start it and, of course, it started. But I didn't want to take any chances, so I had it towed back to his place. Once it came off the truck it started up again and I was able to drive it up his driveway and into the garage where it now sits. At the start of this whole thing I thought it might be sediment in the fuel lines. I had it up on jack stands for about 4 days while I upgraded to the Toyota 4x4 calipers, and I thought maybe being at an incline for 4 days caused some sediment to settle in the fuel pickup or something, and that by adding new fuel it stirred up the sediment enough to allow fuel through. I replaced the fuel filter when I bought the car just as a precaution (not because anything was wrong) and right after I replaced it the rubber fuel lines exploded. The filter must have been clogged quite a bit and when the new filter was put on the old lines couldn't handle the normal pressure again, so I'm sure there's probably some stuff in the tank. My only other thoughts are bad plug wires (but it would still stay running unless they ALL cut out, right?) So then I'm thinking bad coil - that would cause total power loss. The only other thing that was suggested to me is a bad ignition module that acts like the key is being turned off – my boss said he had a problem like that with a tractor. All I know is before this brake upgrade it ran perfectly fine. Let me know where you guys would start. I just discovered that this car is burning though about 4 quarts of oil every 2 months, so I'm not inclined to put too much money/effort into getting this engine in shape - I'd rather spend that time/money putting an L28ET or something else in, but if this is an easy fix I'll continue to drive it until the engine goes on its own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted June 13, 2010 Share Posted June 13, 2010 What car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cothran Posted June 13, 2010 Author Share Posted June 13, 2010 78 280z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted June 13, 2010 Share Posted June 13, 2010 I would start by draining the tank, blowing out all the fuel lines with compressed air, and replacing the fuel filter again. Note any rust or gunk that comes out of the tank/lines. If that fixes the problem you might want to refurbished the fuel tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 Can't remember if that car had the oil pressure/ ignition cut, sensor/solenoid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cothran Posted June 14, 2010 Author Share Posted June 14, 2010 Nope, that was someone else. So draining the fuel is the first thing everyone would do huh? I was hoping I could get around that as that's probably the most involved of all the solutions I came up with. I kind of figured if it was really gunk in the fuel lines that it would eventually clog the line and/or filter enough that it wouldn't run, but it keeps starting up. Seems like the real problem lies somewhere else, but correct me if I'm wrong. If you think that would solve the whole problem I'll spend the time on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger.svoboda Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 I'd check your battery cables and battery before working on the gas. get battery load tested free most places. Z's don't like low voltage. sounds a lot more like an electrical cut out than fuel. put a fuel pressure gage on the rail to find out what is up with the fuel system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datsun24072 Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 My Z started doing the same thing today, I have a 72 240 with an L28 and 5 speed. I replaced all of my lines and got the gas tank acid bathed not too long ago. My fuel pressure is reading at about 30-35 PSI I tried using another AFM and that did not work. Tomorrow I will be checking to see if it is the ECU and I am also going to be getting new spark plugs. It could also just be the fact that I cleaned the engine bay today because I had oil leaking from the head and water got into my ignition box or coil and just needs to dry out! I sure hope thats what it is, I will let you know tomorrow ASAP! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datsun24072 Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 Well it turns out it was just water in some part of the electrical system it started right up this morning first try and ran beautifully! I'm glad it was nothing else this is my daily driver right now because my truck is in the shop. sure takes a load off. but now i know that when I clean the engine bay I need to watch the electrical components. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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