jrb1449 Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 (edited) Hi Guys, I have a a 73 240z with an older Chevy 350 which I was told has: new HEI accel dist fuelly heads with 2.02 stainless valves HD valve springs roller tip rockers 1:6 and some kind of 509 cam??? and was told around 10:1 compression Edelbrock 600cfm carb Weind "Stealth" intake homemade looking headers (ewww) full 3" exhaust(from collectors to a y tube all the way back to a Jones Racinf 3" straight through muffler) It is mated to a built th350 trans and a welded stock 73 automatic diff (not sure of the ratio but should be stock) 23" tall rear tires shitty Eldelbrock foam air filter I went to the Daft Innovations Dyno meet in Modesto this weekend and was let down to find out that I was only putting down 195hp/270ftlbs. I would like to achieve 300hp to the wheels and around a 12.5-12.7 1/4 mile time. Is this not acheivable? It currently runs 13.8's due to the smaller diameter tires. The previous owner ran 13.5's on 26" tires and I have seen the timeslips. I am wondering if anyone on here has a simalr setup in their Z and if so what kind of 1/4 mile times they are seeing. Also gas milage with a simular setup using the th400 trans or WC t5. I am going to change my transmission soon as I need an overdrive. What are some suggestions to make more power? I think I may need to up the compression as I just dont think I really have 10:1 I think it is probably stock pistons. I currently run 91 octane and would like to keep it that way. I am thinking: new pistons new cam and probably full roller rockers new carb new intake What are your thoughts/suggestions? Which ones should I look into? I have been using the search feature and can't seem to find what I am looking for. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ANY INFO YOU CAN OFFER!!! And don't laugh at my ghetto engine and engine bay. These are the next things I am going to work on. LOL. I have had the car for like 2 months and have been mainly focused on its appearence. Now I am trying to improve the performance. (see the before and after pics) Josh Edited June 22, 2010 by jrb1449 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emeraldlion Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 Sounds to me like your dyno numbers are not very accurate. I would think that running a 13.8 you would be making more than 195/270 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 Don't pour thousands into building a new engine just yet. I've yet to see a car roll onto the dyno for a TUNING SESSION (ie: not just a baseline) that wasn't leaving horsepower untapped. In some cases with V8's like yours, their has been 50+hp untapped that could be freed up with just tuning. Check out the dyno thread here: Dyno Tuning Thread For instance: This was just jetting and timing in both cases... Buy some jets, and head back to the shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 Check your timing, both at idle and full advance. Find out what kind of cam you have, and if it's degreed properly. See what your A/F ratios were on the dyno. See what mph the car ran, get it weighed and see if that agrees with the dyno, using one of the calculators. That will be a good start to finding out what's up. jt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrb1449 Posted June 22, 2010 Author Share Posted June 22, 2010 Sounds to me like your dyno numbers are not very accurate. I would think that running a 13.8 you would be making more than 195/270 Ya know, I didn't want to sound like a ***** and ask them what was up. I worked at a shop years back and we had an actual Dynojet and it was a huge above ground structure! The one at Daft is like a Dynocomp or something like that. It looked like a really small portable type unit??? I just didn't want to look like a poor looser asking how accurate there machine was. Either way it was only $40 for three pulls. lol. At my old shop, like 5yrs ago, we charged $100 for 3-4 pulls. I don't remeber seeing anyone that was really happy with their numbers. In fact there was a guy with a 92-95 Honda civic with a Acura 3.2 CL tye S swap and he put down 213hp to the wheels! I was really thinking my car sucked. But after thinking about his traction issues with the 195/50 tires he was sporting I was sure I was probably faster! hahaqha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrb1449 Posted June 22, 2010 Author Share Posted June 22, 2010 I took some pictures of the dyno print out. (crappy cellphone) I really don't think it was running way rich or lean. (what the heck do I know, maybe you folks could shed some light on that) Timming was @ 12 degrees at idle without the advance (I'm guessing about 36 degress full advance.) I ran a 13.895 at 94 mph on 23" tires I weighed it at the local truck scale and was 2700lbs with me in the car (I am about 270lbs) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrb1449 Posted June 22, 2010 Author Share Posted June 22, 2010 Don't pour thousands into building a new engine just yet. I've yet to see a car roll onto the dyno for a TUNING SESSION (ie: not just a baseline) that wasn't leaving horsepower untapped. In some cases with V8's like yours, their has been 50+hp untapped that could be freed up with just tuning. Check out the dyno thread here: Dyno Tuning Thread For instance: This was just jetting and timing in both cases... Buy some jets, and head back to the shop. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THAT LINK!! It was super informative!!! I am going to go back to my old shop here in town with the Dynojet and get a couple of baselines to see what the difference is. The only problem is that my old shop is now under new ownership and just because someone owns a dyno does not mean they know how to tune!!!!!! Trust me!!! My old boss acted like he knew what was up but sometimes I could tell he really didn't!! I guess I need to ask some oldschool hotrod guys here locally for good places that have a dyno and REALLY KNOW how to tune!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 It looks like it's leaning out above 4K rpm. A good baseline AF to shoot for is 12.5:1. Making peak hp in the mid 4K range would indicate a pretty mild cam if everything else is right. Check your timing at full advance, that's a key part of your tune. jt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrb1449 Posted June 22, 2010 Author Share Posted June 22, 2010 By checking it I should be at full 32 degrees at 3k rpm correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emeraldlion Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 Don't underestimate that acura type-s. Those 3.2's are some mean engines have high compression COP ignition and GREAT factory honda tuning. My wife has the regular accord version and it pulls nice in a 3400 pound accord. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrb1449 Posted June 22, 2010 Author Share Posted June 22, 2010 my GF has a 2003 Acura CL Type S 6spd. I am very aware of the power! lol Its a 2003 and has 190k on the clock and still is a blast to drive!! I replaced the timming belt and water pump a while back and thats it! (other than several sets of tires) Still on the stock clutch even! (knock on wood) and she drives all over the San Francisco Bay. She commutes to Sacramneto regularly as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erehemantresni Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 What kind of paint was it painted black with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrb1449 Posted June 22, 2010 Author Share Posted June 22, 2010 Rustoleum HighGloss Black. It too was rolled on. I sanded a couple of spots before this pic was taken and it still needs to be buffed and polished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Negligence Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 Rustoleum HighGloss Black. It too was rolled on. I sanded a couple of spots before this pic was taken and it still needs to be buffed and polished. Roll on Paint Job FTW! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THAT LINK!! It was super informative!!! I am going to go back to my old shop here in town with the Dynojet and get a couple of baselines to see what the difference is. The only problem is that my old shop is now under new ownership and just because someone owns a dyno does not mean they know how to tune!!!!!! Trust me!!! My old boss acted like he knew what was up but sometimes I could tell he really didn't!! I guess I need to ask some oldschool hotrod guys here locally for good places that have a dyno and REALLY KNOW how to tune!! I think you missed part of the point of my linked thread. A dyno is best used as a comparative tool, not a meter to tell you absolute HP measurements. Switching dyno's to get a bigger number doesn't make your car any faster, does it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrb1449 Posted June 22, 2010 Author Share Posted June 22, 2010 I think you missed part of the point of my linked thread. A dyno is best used as a comparative tool, not a meter to tell you absolute HP measurements. Switching dyno's to get a bigger number doesn't make your car any faster, does it? I am purely interested in the differnt readings of the two brands of machines. I am looking for an actual increase in power. I would just rather use a machine local to me. I live in Sacramento,CA and the shop I went to was over 70 miles away. I totally get what you are saying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 By checking it I should be at full 32 degrees at 3k rpm correct? With your timing light hooked up, start at idle and increase the rpm while watching the timing advance. You will reach a rpm where it stops advancing and stays steady. You want to set the total advance with the engine about 500 rpm above the rpm where the advance stops increasing. 32 is pretty conservative. Usually the fuelie style heads will like 35 or 36. jt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 Nice info and thanks for the links. On a side note what rims are those because I want!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrb1449 Posted June 22, 2010 Author Share Posted June 22, 2010 They are Rota RBR's in Royal gold. They are 17x9.5 with -19 offset and some spacers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc052685 Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THAT LINK!! It was super informative!!! I am going to go back to my old shop here in town with the Dynojet and get a couple of baselines to see what the difference is. The only problem is that my old shop is now under new ownership and just because someone owns a dyno does not mean they know how to tune!!!!!! Trust me!!! My old boss acted like he knew what was up but sometimes I could tell he really didn't!! I guess I need to ask some oldschool hotrod guys here locally for good places that have a dyno and REALLY KNOW how to tune!! Stop right there! Dont keep going to different dynos to get the highest hp. As long as the dyno is repeatable then stick with it. You keep going to different machines and you will not know what changes did what. Just stay with that dyno and get the most hp you can on that dyno. Sure it may not tell you the numbers you want to see but you will have better results in the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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