scooterhulk Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 I've got an exhaust leak under the hood of my 77....I have an 83 turbo swap and a nasty exhaust leak that makes a loud ticking whenever I accellerate. Not to mention the fumes, it's not fun to drive right now. The PO, or whoever last worked on this turbo, didn't put any lock washers on the turbo/exhaust manifold nuts and they all backed out, causing the gasket to blow out there. I'd like to go ahead and to it all while I have the intake and exhaust manifolds off. I have intake/exhaust manifold gaskets, what do I need for the turbo? And where can I find it? James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goodoldjam Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 The turbo has metal gaskets you can reuse them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 If the gasket is really boned, the nissan dealer still has them. I asked for one for an '84 300zx turbo, they had to order it, but they still got it and it was pretty cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goodoldjam Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 I forgot about the oil inlet and return gaskets on the turbo. Those aren't really necessary if you don't remove the flanges. You can just remove the dump tube hose and the banjo bolt. You may want to pick up some new washers for the banjo fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 (edited) You can get a full turbo gasket kit at O'Rielly's [T3 flange gasket, DP flange gakset, oil inlet/outlet gaskets] for a 88 Merkur XRTi. It has an oil-cooled T3 and the full kit is ~$9. They also have the intake/exhaust manifold gasket in stock [at least every time I've bought one they've had it in stock]. Edited July 27, 2010 by FlatBlack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooterhulk Posted July 27, 2010 Author Share Posted July 27, 2010 Thanks guys. I'll pick up that gasket from O'Reilly's and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 Here's a thread I started with some ideas on how to best secure the turbo to the manifold. I'll suggest you get new turbo studs and distorted thread nuts. There's no point to using lock washers as the heat will soften them so that they'll be flat when you take them off. In my case with a T3/T4 hybrid I had to pull the head in order to get the wrench on the nuts, so hopefully will NOT be doing this again any time soon. For your sake I hope you don't have to go through all that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooterhulk Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 It's been two years and I never replied to this thread to tell anyone what happened. The nuts on the turbo were loose and I did need a gasket. Used the Merkur gasket from Oreilly's and it worked fine, but that wasn't the cause of my problem. I had a blown head gasket. When I did the compression test I immediately knew what caused it. SEAFOAM. I blew the head gasket when I seafoamed my car the previous summer and had been driving it the entire time thinking I had an exhaust leak. I did, sorta - exhaust blowing out the left side of the engine. Used a Beck-Arnley metal gasket with copper spray and ARP head studs. Even used that little wood-block-in-the-timing-chain trick I think I learned on here. Has been fine ever since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 Lockwashers (split) are useless in high vibration, high heat applications, period. Are you saying Seafoam hydrolocked your engine and blew the gasket? Sounds to me you detonated. The turbos blow the head gasket under the exhaust manifold side when they detonate. You won't hear it detonate, but you will hear it after the head gasket fails. Let me guess: Cyl 4/5/6... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooterhulk Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 No it was actually #2 I think. Might have been #1. Yea, apparently it *grabs dictionary* hydrolocked. Probably poured too much in too quickly. I remember that at the time it was running insanely rich. The back side of the car was covered in soot. It was before I put the Megasquirt on it, which stopped that. I never could get the AFM set right no matter what I did to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooterhulk Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 Btw I did figure out that lock washers are useless in heat/heavy vibration. One of those little things I didn't know at the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 I wouldn't exactly blame Seafoam for blowing your gasket if it hydrolocked...that's kinda operator error, eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooterhulk Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 I didn't blame them. I said I poured too much in too quickly. I've used it before with no problem. So yea, I blew my own head gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snailed Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 Lockwashers (split) are useless in high vibration, high heat applications, period. That's the truth. I think the most significant thing they do is make people feel secure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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