78Z: L28et MS2, EDIS, Holset swap...

[Challenger]

Well I pulled the engine out of my 81 turbo and cleaned up the engine bay on my 78. Cleaned up the engine and replaced misc gaskets and scrubbed the whole thing down for about a week.. haha Well It finally found its way into my 78. The plan is pretty strait forward, MS2, FMIC, BOV, ~13-14 psi. Ill be using an 82-83 dizzy for direct control from MS.

 

It took me nearly 5 hours to get the 4 motor mount bolts in. Im thinking it was the motor mounts I bought from MSA, they might not have been made correctly? The bolts wouldnt even thread in all the way and I had a huge problem getting the bolts to go in once I chased the threads on the mounts. Anyways after a bunch of fiddling and messing around I was able to get it in.

 

 

 

My dad.

 

Me.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Im start school again on september 1st and all my money has gone to that so Ill try to find stuff to do that doesnt cost anything. I have my megasquirt wiring/plug coming so hopefully Ill be able to wire that up and get some of the wiring routed in the engine bay.

Edited August 6, 2010 by Challenger

[Silver Mine Motors]

looking good derek! are you using the t5?

[Two80z4me]

thats a beautiful motor you got there! and car! Good luck getting all those ancient wiring clips on without snapping one

[Challenger]

Thanks! Edan Ill be using the stock 4 speed that was in the car for now. I have a ZX 5 speed from a NA car that Ill be installing down the road. Ill have to replace the clutch then as well.

 

Two80z4me Ill actually be replacing most of the clips and plugs. There is no way Ill be doing all this work and keep the original wiring clips. haha

[FlatBlack]

Oh man, I forgot to do a write up about the engine mounts.

 

TrumpetRhapsody and I both had issues with those mounts, He found a different bolt, I found a bolt with a close thread, then tapped it to fit. Luckily for us it was with them out of the car.

 

Looks like great progress!

[Challenger]

Well glad to know now. Haha. I bought the things like 5 years ago and they were sitting in my closet so I was happy to find them.

 

I really had two problems. The bolts would go in a quarter inch or so and then it was really hard I actually broke one bolt off putting it in. I lifted the engine enough to pull them out and then just ran the bolts in till they worked. I'm not sure what the problem with the threads were but I let the bolts "clearance" them till they fit. Haha Once that was solved I found the holes wouldn't line up. I could almost get the metal engines mounts close to the rubber mounts holes but that was without the metal "c" shaped spacer.

[Challenger]

Had a wedding reception at our house this morning (wedding was at 630am!!) so I didnt get to work on the car till like 3pm. haha

 

But I was able to set up the fuel lines, filter and fpr. I cut off the normal bracket attached to the FPR so it is nice and smooth and I bent the bottom line strait down for a cleaner look on the rubber lines.

 

Also started looking at the wiring for my fuel injectors. I didnt want to have any wires going over the top of the manifold so I decided to make a wiring harness that would run right under the fuel rail and via a plug connect to the wires ran on the back of the firewall. I went to radio shack and got a 12 pin connector and ordered another set of new fuel injectors connectors. Luckily I had 2 left over from my turbo wiring harness so I used those to cut everything to length to where all Ill need to do once I get the new set of connectors is solder them on.

 

Started to look at the oil cooler lines as well. I cut the press fit rubber lines off of the lines that connect to the engine and am planning on the tips getting flared with a new fitting. I can then buy a set of hose with flared fittings on each side to connect to the oil cooler itself and the fittings on the oil sandwich plate.

 

Hopefully this week Ill get my injector connectors and Ill finish up the injector wiring. I may get my db37 megasquirt cable so I can begin to dissassemble the stock ECU connector and begin to trace the wires into the engine bay using twoeightythreez's write up.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=48292

 

I still need to get a hold of the following parts...

 

82-83 turbo dizzy

CHTS

TPS

IATS

Not neccesary but a downpipe, since Id like to plan the wiring for the wideband.

 

Ive been watching the listing of cars at our local pick and pull. Hopefully I can find the cars I need.

 

Heres a few pics.

 

 

 

 

 

And no I didnt hack out a 3 ft section of the dash harness on my ZX to get some free wire....

 

Edited August 9, 2010 by Challenger

[Challenger]

Picture I found just now of something similar to what Ill do for the oil lines.

 

 

From this thread.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/94089-id-oil-filter-assembly/page__pid__886739#entry886739

Edited August 9, 2010 by Challenger

[emeraldlion]

Looking good. I have to admit I don't much care for the 2+2 but yours brings the stock up a point in my book. Great looking color scheme. Swap looks like it's progressing well. Good luck getting her finished. Make sure you post a classic youtube vid with camera on ground behind exhaust muffler while you walk around and rev(j/k).

[Challenger]

Ill let you know when I get it to the point where its actually making noise. haha Then I can make a video.

 

Got a couple sensors today and a few fittings for the oil cooler. Ill have to drill out the fittings slightly and then weld them on. Tubing with pressed on ends will be like $80 so I am told by House of Hose.. Not looking forward to that. Anyways the sensors are CHT sensor and an IAT sensor.

[woldson]

Call me for parts. I've seen the car in person, very nice job!

[Challenger]

 

 

 

Pictures!

Edited August 10, 2010 by Challenger

[Challenger]

Found this picture helpful.

 

All the GND pins go to the same connection on the board, so don't get too hung up on which specific pins you use for ground and sensor returns. Just use one of the black wires as a sensor return, and ground the rest

 

This is what they said on the diyautotune website. Confused on how Ill be grounding all of the sensors. Could I say use one of my datsun wires to run a wire from #20 on the DB37 to the IAT sensor yellow wire, then use #19 to return to MS through a datsun wire. For the other sensors would I just ground them to MS using any of the other ground wires or would I just ground them to the body/manifold/engine/etc?

 

Im working on wiring the coolant tempterature sensor (head temp sensor) I used datsun wire #13 which originally goes to a pigtail connector on the white connector on the thermostat. The other wire on that connector goes back to a common ground and goes to the intake manifold. If I trace #13 back to the ECU and connect it to DB37 #21 would that work?

Edited August 11, 2010 by Challenger

[Matt Cramer]

It's best to wire all the sensor return wires together and run them to pin 19 (or one of the other ground wires).

[Challenger]

Ok, that makes sense. Since I really only have like 4 sensors there will be plenty of grounds to just run each sensors ground back the MS. Then since all of the ground pins go to the same spot on the ECU, the remaining grounds can go out to the engine bay for grounding to the block, manifold, etc.

 

Thanks

[Challenger]

Stopped by the junkyard today, looked for a 240sx TPS or the same one off of a nissan but I didnt find any of them. I looked around at the other cars to see if any other would work on the stock TB and found one off of a hyundai.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/THROTTLE-POSITION-SENSOR-HYUNDAI-ACCENT-GL-GS-96-97-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ370363013908QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

 

It slips over the TB shaft so Ill just need to fab up some bracket to hold it on properly.

[Challenger]

TPS went on perfect!

 

Also stopped by schucks and they were able to tell me which wire was which.

 

So hopefully for future MS installers heres some info.

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

HYUNDAI ACCENT

year Type liter del. asp. vin designation where used position notes

1998 L4 1.5 FI N N G4EK Throttle Switch

1996 L4 1.5 FI N N Throttle Switch

1995 L4 1.5 FI N N Throttle Switch

 

HYUNDAI ELANTRA

year Type liter del. asp. vin designation where used position notes

2000 L4 2.0 FI N G4CP Throttle Switch To 8/2000

1999 L4 2.0 FI N F G4CP Throttle Switch

1998 L4 1.8 FI N M G4CN Throttle Switch

1997 L4 1.8 FI N M Throttle Switch

1996 L4 1.8 FI N M Throttle Switch

 

HYUNDAI SCOUPE

year Type liter del. asp. vin designation where used position notes

1994 L4 1.5 FI N J Throttle Switch w/ Alpha Engine w/ Daesung Sensor

1994 L4 1.5 FI T N Throttle Switch w/ Alpha Engine w/ Daesung Sensor

1993 L4 1.5 FI N J Throttle Switch w/ Alpha Engine w/ Daesung Sensor

1993 L4 1.5 FI T N Throttle Switch w/ Alpha Engine w/ Daesung Sensor

1992 L4 1.5 FI N J Throttle Switch w/ Alpha Engine w/ Daesung Sensor

1991 L4 1.5 FI N J Throttle Switch w/ Alpha Engine w/ Daesung Sensor

 

HYUNDAI TIBURON

year Type liter del. asp. vin designation where used position notes

2001 L4 2.0 FI N F G4CP Throttle Switch To 10/2001

2000 L4 2.0 FI N F G4CP Throttle Switch

1999 L4 2.0 FI N F G4CP Throttle Switch

1998 L4 2.0 FI N F G4CP Throttle Switch

1997 L4 1.8 FI N M Throttle Switch

 

HYUNDAI TIBURON FX

year Type liter del. asp. vin designation where used position notes

1998 L4 2.0 FI N F G4CP Throttle Switch

1997 L4 2.0 FI N F Throttle Switch

 

HYUNDAI ACCENT GL

year Type liter del. asp. vin designation where used position notes

1997 L4 1.5 FI N N Throttle Switch

 

HYUNDAI ELANTRA GLS

year Type liter del. asp. vin designation where used position notes

1997 L4 1.8 FI N M Throttle Switch

1996 L4 1.8 FI N M Throttle Switch

 

HYUNDAI ACCENT GS

year Type liter del. asp. vin designation where used position notes

1997 L4 1.5 FI N N Throttle Switch

 

HYUNDAI ACCENT GT

year Type liter del. asp. vin designation where used position notes

1997 L4 1.5 FI N N Throttle Switch

1996 L4 1.5 FI N N Throttle Switch

 

HYUNDAI ACCENT L

year Type liter del. asp. vin designation where used position notes

1997 L4 1.5 FI N N Throttle Switch

1996 L4 1.5 FI N N Throttle Switch

1995 L4 1.5 FI N N Throttle Switch

 

HYUNDAI SCOUPE LS

year Type liter del. asp. vin designation where used position notes

1994 L4 1.5 FI N J Throttle Switch w/ Alpha Engine w/ Daesung Sensor

1992 L4 1.5 FI N J Throttle Switch w/ Alpha Engine w/ Daesung Sensor

1991 L4 1.5 FI N J Throttle Switch w/ Alpha Engine w/ Daesung Sensor

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

As for the wiring...

 

GW--- Supply 5V <----> Pin 22

GB--- Sensor/Signal wire <----> Pin 26

WB--- Ground

Edited August 12, 2010 by Challenger

[Challenger]

Got the intercooler and oil cooler mounted. Put a piece of cardboard up to see what it would look like. Ill be using sheet metal to duct everything and ill probably do something like that.

 

 

I read a little about the arguments on where to put the IAT sensor. In the intake manifold seemed to be the most accurate measurement but you can get some additional heat soak from conduction. Luckily my sensor is plastic so I used a extra cold start injector for its flange and drilled out the intake so I could mount it right behind the TB.

 

 

Also I decided to just do it right the first time with EDIS-6... stopped by the pull and save and got everything I needed for only $16!!! I was pretty happy. Took about 45 min and I had everything.

 

 

Coil Pack from a dodge caravan 3.3 V6

 

 

Plug for the coil pack. Is there supposed to be a capacitor on one of the wires. I read in Zmancos sticky that there was one...

 

 

EDIS controller, got off an Explorer, 4.0 V6

 

 

Its connector, still all together with the filter.

 

 

VR sensor from an Escort. Got the connection too which had the shielded wire. Wasnt connected to the sensor side so I assume it grounds the shielding at the ecu.

Edited August 17, 2010 by Challenger

[Challenger]

Alright, worked outside for a few hours and didnt physically do much but I feel alot better about what Im doing now. Im working on a crude wiring diagram with numbers for the datsun wires as well as the pin they will go into on the DB37.

 

Also started to understand a little better on how Ill be grounding everything. Gonna sit back and relax, watch Resident Evil, and make a wiring diagram.

[Challenger]

Alright heres the diagram. I included all sensors, injectors, EDIS, and the AFR gauge and its calibration switch.

 

 

Heres the coil pack with its wires labeled.

 

 

Heres the rest of the wires coming off of the EDIS controller. Power, ground, 3 wires going to the coils.

 

 

Wired up the VR sensor, PIP, and SAW line. Used some shielded 24 gauge cable from radio shack by Zya's reccomendation.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/57051-pip-and-saw-shielding/page__view__findpost__p__520833

 

 

Notice the lines above have their shielding left in the casing where it cant ground out. These ends will be going to the DB37 as you see on the diagram.

 

Now regarding the three lines pictured, PIP, SAW, VR sensor... how important even with the shielded wire is routing them away from other wires? Would running these lines even next to each other be a problem?

 

Lastly, where these 3 wires are soldered onto the EDIS controller I had to peel back some of the shielding in order to combine it and put it into pin 7 on the controller. I assume since the length of exposed area is so short there wont be interference issues?

Edited August 18, 2010 by Challenger