xShodaimex Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 Hey guys, I have discussed proportioning valves with a few of my friends and some say that the wilwood is a direct bolt on to my vehicle. [later 74 260z] Now I have argued with them over and over about this because I have read about it for quite some time now. On the Modernmotorsports site it says it will fit on Male M10x1.0 IF to another Male M10x1.0 IF but if Im correct the factory fittings are M10-1.25 IF. Now I am confused. I know there are other discussions about prop valve but can someone just tell me if it is direct or not. I want to end this discussion with my friends once and for all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 Factory fittings are 10 x 1. On the prop valve I used (can't recall make), I had to use a 3/8 male to 10mm female adapter on both ends. I believe I got the adapter from the local parts store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xShodaimex Posted August 21, 2010 Author Share Posted August 21, 2010 I guess it also depends on what prop valve you use. I talked with crazyoctopus w/ his build and he said it was basically plug and plau just had to buy some line. 12 bucks worth I believe. Anyways, thanks JMortensen. Did you also use the prop valve from modern motorsports? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 21, 2010 Share Posted August 21, 2010 No, I got mine about 10 years ago, probably from some circle track source. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted August 21, 2010 Share Posted August 21, 2010 Did mine about 2-3 years ago and the prop valve was NOT plug and play. I found out then that I couldn't flare a brake line for my life. I also couldn't find the correct adapter. I wound up having the line made with the proper length and ends and had it sent to me. It was like 10$, but I had piece of mind that the flare was correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 21, 2010 Share Posted August 21, 2010 The trick to flaring is chamfering the tube. If you don't have a countersink you can do it with a big drill bit, like a 3/8" drill bit. Just hit the end of the tube and putting that chamfer on it makes all the difference when you go to flare the tube. I've always used cheapo NAPA type flare tools, never had a big issue getting a good seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsommer Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Dragging up this old topic, sorry. I am installing the Wilwood valve, do you use the adaptors that are supplied with the valve?(brass ones) I look inside the valve inlet/outlet and it appears to require a bubble flare(?) and the threads inside the valve are metric. The adaptors (SAE female) require double flare and are SAE, so do I use the adaptors or try to bubble flair the brake line and get new SAE fittings for inlet/outlet sides. (confused.... As always thank for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beermanpete Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Dragging up this old topic, sorry. I am installing the Wilwood valve, do you use the adaptors that are supplied with the valve?(brass ones) I look inside the valve inlet/outlet and it appears to require a bubble flare(?) and the threads inside the valve are metric. The adaptors (SAE female) require double flare and are SAE, so do I use the adaptors or try to bubble flair the brake line and get new SAE fittings for inlet/outlet sides. (confused.... As always thank for the help! The Wilwood valve has 3/8" NTP and requires an adapter fitting for use with the inverted flare or the bubble flare. Our valve included adapters for 3/8" threads and 3/16" line if I recall correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 When I installed my prop valve a few months ago, I made two short lines, one from the brake light warning block, that had the metric fitting on that end, and an SAE fitting to attach to the prop valve, and again another short tube, with the same arrangement, that then attached to an M10xM10 coupler where the OEM prop valve was (1973 240Z) on the firewall. Mine is an ALLstar performance item. http://www.allstarperformance.com/product.htm?prod=365 I got the metric coupler from my local NAPA. I can't say enough good things about the hydraulic flaring tool I bought a couple years ago, so much easier to use than the manual types, and so far, I have not had a bad flare from it, where as I would occasionally get a bad flare using my manual flaring tools, even when I took all precautions, speaking of which I should get rid of those manual versions... lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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