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Getting a 240z


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Hello all, this is my first post and im new to this forum so please forgive me if I don't know all the rules yet:). I live in the humid NC. anyways, joined with hopes of making a Z a track or drag car, Was considering V8 swap. but that's in the future, I have to still get one first; now my question.

 

OK so I'm looking to buy a project Z. My budget is about $2000. Ive read the previous forums as to the +'s and -'s of each model (240-280z's). For a track car or drag, Ive found that the 240's are the lightest most power to weight ratio I can get. so I want to go with a 240. The posts have also mentioned that "all in all out of the three models you should just find one without rust". Well Ive tried to do that and have been looking all up and down the east coast for the past 2 months about, but that's the problem its the east coast, and everything has rust I'm finding. SO now if I buy such an old car (240z) over here, its most likely going to have rust. I'm thinking that finding a 30 year old z without rust for less than $2000 is out of ?. Its a Restoration project and so I'm willing to put money into it to fix. I just don't know how hard it is to fix RUST? I'm wondering, out of all the normal rust areas, which is the easiest to fix? Everyone down here has a 240z with rusted floor pans, and most have some rust on the frame rails. How do I go about fixing those areas? whats the easiest way?

thanks to all who read this!

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You might just try getting a car from the west coast. As for getting a car with rust, in my experience, if it has some rust at first sight, there's probably more you will find later. Can you weld or fabricate? If not, can you afford to pay someone else?

 

Also, stony (username on here) I think still has a 260z drag car for sale as a roller. It was listed around $5000, I think. It's a bit above your budget but would be a GREAT head start to your project if you can afford a little more for a better start.

 

BTW, you were probably asked to accept the rules when you registered, so please don't tell us you don't know the rules. If not, here they are: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?app=forums&module=extras&section=boardrules

 

There's a link to them in the top right corner next to "View New Content."

Edited by rturbo 930
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You're going to need at least $4000 to buy something in decent shape. These cars have really been appreciating in value over the past few years. If you are just building a car for the strip, maybe look into a nissan 240sx. They can be had around $1000 in decent shape, the body anyway.

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what do you mean it has no windows? The only ones I don't see are door glass, the rest are there. It its a car with huge tires and a solid axle. I say it is street able because I have seen them like that driven on the street. I wouldn't pay 4,000 for it but that is because my uses are not there in that car.

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To answer ur ? I have access to some fab. Equipment but don't really know what I'm doing. I'm not a professional by anymeans but I was planning on doing research on how to do rust work and then get some good hands on practice on this z. This Z I'm looking to buy I'm looking for a project. So yes a $5000 base price is out of question. My ?? Is mainly I don't want to buy a Z with a rusted (something) and then come to find out that, that particular rust is almost impossible to fix and I should have not bought this car for that reason. Does this make sense? Are their other ways to fix rust without welding? Can I cut out the rust then add sheetmetal over hole then use something other than weld to hold it in place? Can I fill the rust with something? Or do I absolutely need to weld it. Not very experienced with welder. Done it once lol. Maybe its time to learn. Thanks for all thoughts.

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Haha ur analogy makes sense, here is are some pics of a car I'm looking to buy. Engine is good, tranny good, all the parts are on the car and its pritty much stock. It does have some rust on, floorpans, door jams, and frame rails or So he has said. Good thing is that it has no rust in the rear. Also good thing is its been garaged for the past few years and he took all the carpet out so. Any new water on the carpet will not continue to make rust. What do u guys think? Asking price is $2k so its in my budget and I think its negotiable. Also comes with another set of aftermarket wheels he said. Is this rust fixable? Should I run away?

post-12746-005874400 1282397492_thumb.jpg

post-12746-049203900 1282397536_thumb.jpg

post-12746-085975900 1282397597_thumb.jpg

post-12746-085161100 1282397647_thumb.jpg

post-12746-064257900 1282397710_thumb.jpg

post-12746-058123000 1282397792_thumb.jpg

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Well I might as well chime in here. I found my Z about two years ago and spent about 6 months trying to find it. I was mainly looking for a daily driver/project since I finished up my first car. Really what I was looking for was something that looked good and had an inline 6 for ease of maintenance. I stumbled on Z's and started learning more about them so I knew what I had to have. You don't want to get something thats missing a lot of stuff because it will nickel and dime you to the point where you would have been ahead to just get something better. It's not as big a problem with Z's thanks to the aftermarket. It was a problem with my AMC.

 

So that all said, I think what has been said so far is good. I don't know what all you've done with cars before so I'm just going to say that everything is always more involved than it appears. Something that you think will take an hour to do will probably take longer. One thing I will recommend is do a search and find out where to look for rust on these cars its been discussed before I'm sure.(I can already see issues under that cars paint.)

 

Now I live in Arizona so unless a car comes from out of state a rusty car is just non existent(however sunburned/ruined interiors are everywhere.)The fact that a car has rust won't make me walk away, its all about where the rust is located. If its in some hard to reach nook or cranny, well your probably looking at a cancer victim.

http://forums.hybridz.org/uploads/monthly_08_2010/post-12746-085161100%201282397647.jpg

The bubbling at the lower fender in this pic is common I would say because run off from the cowl drains down behind it. However the bubbling behind the door in the "dogleg" (still a common place) tells me that someone just through a paint job on something without taking the time to fix the real problem. Which brings cause to be concerned about what else could be wrong. The floor pan rust looks to be close to the inner rocker and that's all structural. If you have to fix rust on a Z you need to weld it together because these are unibody cars something in the trunk can effect something in the front clip, you don't really know until you get in there.

If I were you I would probably pass on it. You're looking for a project and projects aren't necessities, so keep searching and saving. When I first started looking for mine I only had about 2000 that I had budgeted and by the time I bought mine I had around 4000. So remember that even though you're waiting your funds are growing which is helping you move up into better market Z's. Just keep that in mind. Keep looking though you never know when a crazy good deal could show up on craigslist or somewhere else. That's enough of my blabbin. Good Luck.

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thats about the same amount of rust I have on my car, even with the holes in my frame rails it holds up. but then again I bought my Z for $1800 with 45k on the motor/trans from a 82zx and the body was immaculate, just frame rail rust and little bit of inner fender. it ran drive, hauled ass. so if it doesn't feel right, then don't force it. That car looks well cared for, for the most part. there isnt oil all over the motor, and the paint its clean, the rust in the floorpans looked like somebody lost the drain plug and then just let it sit and its starting to rust, which means its salvagable.

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