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Just moved to Portland, Oregon


Captainnapalm

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Since I see there are some fellow Oregonians asking DEQ questions. I have one I need some advice on. I have an 82 810, with a l28eT swap. Went thru DEQ without cat and failed (High CO's), then put a cat on it. It failed again(still high CO's, not as bad tho). I recently had a "tune up" done by Jok at "Bill's Datsun" in Clackamas and am wondering if I'm now worse off... Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Is your car black in color?

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It was definitely a win/win for me. I was looking at 280zxt's before I found that one, but it was easier to sell the 4-door to the wife(for the kid) lol. I know there has been a lot of time and money thrown into this car during the swap, but unfortunately the guy who did all the work passed away and all that info was lost. The guy I bought it from let his g/f drive it for 2+ years and it shows. Other than the fact that it hasn't been tagged since 06 and I'm fighting the DEQ process it is a great quick little car.

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It was definitely a win/win for me. I was looking at 280zxt's before I found that one, but it was easier to sell the 4-door to the wife(for the kid) lol. I know there has been a lot of time and money thrown into this car during the swap, but unfortunately the guy who did all the work passed away and all that info was lost. The guy I bought it from let his g/f drive it for 2+ years and it shows. Other than the fact that it hasn't been tagged since 06 and I'm fighting the DEQ process it is a great quick little car.

 

Damn that's awesome definitely a lot of work getting that engine in there i like the top mount intercooler, it sucks the last owner passed away but at least the car went to a Datsun/Nissan guy. If you ever want to sell it in the future let me know first :D I live in Medford and I always wanted a 810 Maxima or the early 810. You should try joining Ratsun.net I'm on there as well it's a great forum for all Datsuns.

Edited by 280zx@541
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Thanks for the heads up. Im trying to find some Portland area Datsun clubs for meets/cruizes. Any suggestions?

 

Well there are definitely a lot of Datsun peeps in portland, on the Ratsun forum if you go on the events section you will find the meets that are going on in Portland they usually post to keep everyone updated when and where there having the next meet.

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They do an an idle run, and then a ~2500 RPM run for about 30 seconds. After the 2.5K run, they wait to see if the CO's come back below "1", I'm holding around 2.2... It was around 3.8 without the cat.

 

The hold at 2,500 is just a second chance to pass if you fail initially. They don't measure. So the AFM idle air screw leaning should get you there, assuming you don't have any missing from bad plugs, wires, etc.

 

I'm surprised they tested without the converter, unless they were just giving you some numbers to work with. The door jam tag tells if your supposed to have one and I don't think that they'll pass you without it.

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When I went thru the first time (w/o cat) the guy was looking under the car with their mirror for a good 5 minutes. He then continued running the test, and after looking at the paperwork they gave me saying i failed; the "catalytic converter present" box was checked by him. Maybe he was being nice? lol. If only I would have passed, wouldnt have had to go thru the hassle of putting a cat on.

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I was just looking for my AFM screw and cant seem to find one... the black plastic cover has been RTV'd shut. Possibly located under that cap? Since it is a motor swapped car, the afm is not in a stock location... its mounted "black plastic cap" down on the drivers side inner fender.

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Here's a link that shows the hole with the adjustment screw. The screw is kind of deep inside, with a big slot, hard to reach depending on the orientation of the AFM. Often they're factory sealed with hard clear plastic that you'll need to break loose, sometimes just a rubber plug. Keep track of how many turns you use in case you want to go back. Don't get carried away with all of the other advice in the link if you're just trying to lean out your idle.

 

The first color picture - idle "flow" adjuster. Out is leaner, it lets more air past the AFM vane.

 

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html

 

Edit - it's possible that the turbo AFM doesn't have this, I haven't actually worked with a turbo AFM.

Edited by NewZed
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I used to be a certified tester in nor cal. If they are only doing static testing just do a basic tune check. Check your timing, check egr function, run good gas and be sure the car is at normal operating temp. If it does fail and is running well, it could actually have a fouled catalytic converter. But if testing is free, just take it in and get it tested. If it fails bring your test report home and post your results here. I am confident that with all the knowledgeable mechanics on these forums, you will have no problem chasing the problem down quickly!

D~

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*Update: Went thru DEQ successfully after turning my afm wheel down 5!! teeth. 4 wasnt quite enough. Running a little rich is an understatement. Now I have a new problem... I havent looked thru the other forums yet, figured Id throw it out here. My fuel gauge doesnt work when the car starts. After about 20min of run time it finally kicks on. If I turn the car off and back on after it has warmed up it works fine. Just on cold starts it doesnt work right away. Vacuum issue?

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  • 7 months later...

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