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Need help on sanding down my paint


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I just bought 400 grit of sand paper and a block to hold it in place. So i started sanding it down while doing the cross movement. My paint is really bad and a whole lot of chips and cracks. It seems like the old paint is so rough and hard to smooth it down with 400 grit. Should i get a stronger grit to smooth it down or will it take off all the paint to the bare metal. Or should i just sand it down a bit and just spray primer on it ?

 

I'm trying to primer it at this time till i get enough money to pay for a paint job. Please help ! I am a rookie at this stuff so i don't know what i'm doing. The only information i'm getting is from youtube.

 

Chris

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Block sanding with 400 grit paper then priming the car is not the only steps you will need. The cars that you see in primer that you like are ones that are straight and ready for paint. Priming a dented and rusty car will only make the car look worse imo. Maybe your car is clean excluding the chips and cracks in the paint but if not I would advise fixing ALL problem areas.

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If you plan on doing any sort of decent paint job I would take it down to bare metal, especially if the paint is cracking and chipping off.

 

What he said. I used a 60 grit flapper disk with my angle grinder to get mine down to bare metal, or you could do a chemical strip...(paint remover). You would be shocked to see how much rust (if any) is hidden under your paint................ :blink:

Edited by Blown77Z
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Thanks guys for helping a newbie out. Yeah the paint is really bad and the car does have dents and some rust. I believe i might just take it down to the bare metal then fix the dents and primer it right after. I really don't want a shi*#y job, plus i love my car. There's nothing better than a little TLC with your love.

 

I have one question though, how can i get rid of minor rust ? Should i shave it down then primer it ?

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It's definitely the best way to go.

Where is this rust at, be warned that minor rust may turn out to be a much larger job. Sometimes you'll find old bodywork and sometimes it's far more rusted out. Just be ready for it to turn into a major job.

 

Rust-oleum has a rust stripper I have been using, it seems like some good stuff (you know it's good if it causes chemical burns).

It takes it off with not much effort, problem is it flash rusts like nothing else I've seen (good for small spots).

I do like the por-15 metal preps.

Also if you have a pressure washer that may speed up paint removal, sometimes you can practically peel it off if it's bad.

Chemical strippers are not as good as they used to be, generally if it say aircraft stripper that's what you want. I've noticed some turn the paint to a gooey slime and some lift the paint away.

Edited by goodoldjam
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Paint strippers are messy and can cause burns to your skin.Make sure you use good gloves.If you have an air compressor a DA sander and good ole roll of P 80 grit will be fast and not to aggressive.There is a product called extend that will kill rust and neutralize it.Once you are to the stage of priming you really should know what products you are going to use as far as the complete paint system goes to insure as few problems down the road as possible and maximum longevity of the finish.You want both the mechanical bond and the chemical bond of the system otherwise you may experience delamination of the products.Wear a respirator as much as possible these products are not good for you even in the sanding stages.

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I dropped the air DA sander, there are too many good electric ones that make less noise and work better. Watch the stripper if there is any body filler it will affect it too. Also on the area near the vents behind the rear side windows you will find lead filler used by the factory. I found the sanding sponges sold at Harbor Freight work great after scraping off the chemical stripper, and that stuff will burn your skin so keep a bucket of water and some rags handy incase it happens. Also wear a respirator; you do not need to breathe this stuff. It will take some time to get this done but football season has started and a TV in the garage, between the plays and during the commercials the job is not that bad.

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Thanks guys you guys truly made me understand about body work. At this moment i am sanding down the car with a 3M stripper. I've done about 3 hours work so far and its only quarter of the hood. This stuff is no joke at all. Only the front end of the car has bad paint starting from the front window to the bumper and fenders.

 

Everything else is good but should i just sand down the back part with 400 grit or continue stripping the paint to the metal ?

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Thanks guys you guys truly made me understand about body work. At this moment i am sanding down the car with a 3M stripper. I've done about 3 hours work so far and its only quarter of the hood. This stuff is no joke at all. Only the front end of the car has bad paint starting from the front window to the bumper and fenders.

 

Everything else is good but should i just sand down the back part with 400 grit or continue stripping the paint to the metal ?

I personally wouldn't have a problem doing that. Just as long as I could manage a smooth surface. I would sand the dents clean and fill and spot prime, Then sand the primer. You could use spot putty over the smallest of dings on top of the paint but that is really for pin holes. I'm really against talcum based fillers "Bondo", if that gets exposed to humidity it soaks it up. So a small chip will ruin the bodywork under it and poor body work will start to bubble. I would recommend a fiberglass filler, reason shops use bondo is because it's cheap and easier to work.

Edited by goodoldjam
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